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  #11  
Old 08-12-2019, 06:57 PM
Shade guy Shade guy is offline
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Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
They really get the price up for these small cylinders.
Attachment 151778



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  #12  
Old 08-12-2019, 07:51 PM
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Man this looks like standard stuff from here in the land of the internet.

Do you have calipers to measure the parts?

The larger black seal. Is it solid or is it u shaped on both sides?

Scott


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  #13  
Old 08-12-2019, 09:19 PM
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Did you take the seal out of the head too? If you are going to replace the piston seals, be best to replace the seal and wiper seal in the head too.

Does the barrel look good with no scratches too? That seal looks pretty tore up, or just really over loaded and the seal blew out.

Just need a caliper to verify dimensions, I assume it is inch measurement and not metric.



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  #14  
Old 08-13-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
...Cut the cylinder and reweld in the middle?
You would cut off the "dead" end of the cylinder (opposite to the gland nut) and shorten it up as needed. You can't cut the cylinder in the middle as that would leave a rough spot that would instantly tear up your seals.

Quote:
...cut the shaft and rethread?
Yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
...Man this looks like standard stuff from here in the land of the internet....
Yup, looks pretty basic to me. Normally a cylinder like that will have a U-seal, a wear ring and a back up ring which you seem to have there. At 2500 PSI max pressure that cylinder is in the medium range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
...Did you take the seal out of the head too? If you are going to replace the piston seals, be best to replace the seal and wiper seal in the head too...
What you refer to as the "head" is normally called the gland nut. There will be a set of rod seals inside it similar to the ones you found on the piston. The fact that the cylinder leaked down tells you that the piston seals were at fault. If it was leaking oil from the end of the gland then your rod seals would be suspect.

Quote:
...Does the barrel look good with no scratches too? That seal looks pretty tore up, or just really over loaded and the seal blew out...
From the picture that looks to be more than just a blowout--looks like some form of mechanical damage to me...
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
Man this looks like standard stuff from here in the land of the internet.

Do you have calipers to measure the parts?

The larger black seal. Is it solid or is it u shaped on both sides?

Scott


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I have calipers
The larger black seal is solid
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2019, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
Did you take the seal out of the head too? If you are going to replace the piston seals, be best to replace the seal and wiper seal in the head too.

Does the barrel look good with no scratches too? That seal looks pretty tore up, or just really over loaded and the seal blew out.

Just need a caliper to verify dimensions, I assume it is inch measurement and not metric.
I did not look in the head to check for seals
I will check the barrel
The place I took it to for seals said it was metric
The were measuring the part that the seals attach to
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2019, 04:11 PM
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Most of the cylinders are usually a standard size.

Look on McMaster Carr for hydraulic cylinder o rings. Metric sizes are listed with dimensions.

Those are generally priced good or you can get a standard size number and know what you need.

Or you can sketch out the dimensions on a piece of paper and post it as a picture and we can help find it.

Scott


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  #18  
Old 08-13-2019, 06:19 PM
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Okay the lady at the seal supply house that Walker recommended was measuring the surface the seals sit on and coming up with strange to her metric measurements.

I went and took some measurements and it seem to me to be inch not metric

The seal with the slot in it measures
1" od
3/4" id
it is 1/4" tall
and 1/8" thick

the other black seal
7/8" od
3/4" id
5/32" tall
and 1/16" thick

those seem pretty straightforward to me so I am going to look a McMaster Carr

I do not see any seals in the barrel
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  #19  
Old 08-13-2019, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
Okay the lady at the seal supply house that Walker recommended was measuring the surface the seals sit on and coming up with strange to her metric measurements.

I went and took some measurements and it seem to me to be inch not metric

The seal with the slot in it measures
1" od
3/4" id
it is 1/4" tall
and 1/8" thick

the other black seal
7/8" od
3/4" id
5/32" tall
and 1/16" thick

those seem pretty straightforward to me so I am going to look a McMaster Carr

I do not see any seals in the barrel


You should measure the parts that the seals go into and around, if possible. Remember, there’s needs to be squish for the seals to work, so if depending on what you are using to measure with, the seal will be .020- .030 bigger or smaller than the size it says it is for.


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  #20  
Old 08-13-2019, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade guy View Post
...I do not see any seals in the barrel...
The barrel, as you call it, is the cylinder or tube that makes up the body of the unit. The seals you've shown pictures of are there to seal the piston to the inside of the barrel.

Because that cylinder has two ports it's double acting meaning that hydraulic pressure pushes on both sides of the piston. For this reason there have to be seals between the rod and head--or gland as it's commonly referred to--otherwise oil will piss out when you apply pressure. Take the nut off the end of the rod and slide the gland off, there will be seals inside the gland.

If the cylinder were single acting--meaning that there is only pressure on one side of the piston and the cylinder is retracted by some other means--then you might get away with no seals in the gland. All you'd need would be a wear strip in the gland...
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