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  #21  
Old 08-13-2019, 10:43 AM
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Automotive stores have the fancy digital battery testers which are set to the specific battery size for load testing. Usually a free test. That way you can stop guessing about the battery. Burnt contacts in a solenoid can also affect battery function.
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  #22  
Old 08-13-2019, 12:40 PM
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I don't trust those fancy digital things at all. A friend of mine is a GM mechanic and he has said that about half of the batteries tested with the digital pos saying they are good will fail an old school load test. Now that 100 amp load tester is worthless on any battery bigger than a lawn mower battery. You need to be able to pull half of the CCA for 10 seconds and then take a voltage reading. on a summer day it should be at least 9.6 volts. Also at 11.something your battery is not fully charged, a fully charged battery is 12.6 volts.
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2019, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
The only way to determine if the battery is bad is to do a Pile test and by following the test procedure included with the pile tester... CCA CA and temperature anything under 12.6 to 13.6 is a failing battery if it hasn't failed yet it will fail at the worst time possible...

You can get a reasonably priced pile tester at HF it's as good as any other
If it is a liquid fill battery you can also test the battery cells individually and determine which one is weak compared to the other cells and then bring it back up to a full charge and test the individual cells again if one is below any of the others its a bad cell and means battery is going bad soon anyway and will be a sure way to know it needs replacing.

here is one test procedure for testing the cells individually
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8qgZoovWHI

Pile tester... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fvD8XJsSRc

Hope this helps ya...
That is the exact same tester I am using on the battery and getting an unloaded 11.8 and loaded voltage down around 10. the guy at batteries plus had a much bigger tester with 2 gauges on it, one showed the amp draw he was applying and one showed the battery voltage. His shows a similar drop to mine, but from what I could see looking over his shoulder, anything over 10V was considered acceptable.

I haven't taken the cables off and tested the battery unhooked to see if there is a parasitic drain on the battery, I will do that when I check all the cables.

I will try to get the truck from her this weekend and check all the cables and usual suspects but I am still in the camp that a battery dropping to 10 volts is not a good battery.
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2019, 01:51 PM
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Drop another battery in it. I always have extra battery's laying around
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2019, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
Doesn't turn over. She says she turns the key all the way and there is a pause and then a slow crank and start.
A "pause" then slow cranking is a big indication that you have a bad connection
cables, starter relay, starter.

a bad key switch, neutral safety switch may add a pause BUT "not" slow cranking.

The voltage in a battery does not pause with an exception of a broken post inside the battery... in that case would not last long.


I don't have any experience with gel batteries so I cant say what the load curves are or what would be the voltage per cell.
Just in case the load tester meter is not accurate you can connect your digital meter along with the load tester and do a comparison.....

As for lead acid battery's Most of the ones I purchased last about a year before the warranty expires figure with prorated, makes you buy the same battery just to get that $10 back and they win by another sale.
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2019, 03:44 PM
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It is also possible you might have a bad starter if the battery turns out testing to be good...
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2019, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Shade View Post
That is the exact same tester I am using on the battery and getting an unloaded 11.8 and loaded voltage down around 10. the guy at batteries plus had a much bigger tester with 2 gauges on it, one showed the amp draw he was applying and one showed the battery voltage. His shows a similar drop to mine, but from what I could see looking over his shoulder, anything over 10V was considered acceptable.

I haven't taken the cables off and tested the battery unhooked to see if there is a parasitic drain on the battery, I will do that when I check all the cables.

I will try to get the truck from her this weekend and check all the cables and usual suspects but I am still in the camp that a battery dropping to 10 volts is not a good battery.
Matt 11 volts its bad 10 volts if a toasted battery
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  #28  
Old 08-13-2019, 05:15 PM
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Yep, thats what I was trying to explain. On the 450, I think the cables/grounds went first, then the battery, that took out the Alt, then the ignition, radio/ tape deck and so on. Only one diode was fried, so it may have been leaking AC to the system.

My plan may be a bit out of order, but, I think, not much.

Down here in the tropics, when a start/run battery has it's fourth birthday, I replace it and let it live out it's days on the jump cart, usually plugged into the 5th wheel, running the DC lights and alarms, giving the deep cycle house bats a rest on the battery minder. (going on 5 years on the set in the trailer now) Just put new DC in the aux battery box on Big Red, protected by a perko switch and an isolator.

RED
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  #29  
Old 08-13-2019, 08:28 PM
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https://m.northerntool.com/shop/tool...1440_200611440
This is similar to the one I use at work. I can load up to 1000 cca batteries with it.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using ShopFloorTalk mobile app
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