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  #21  
Old 11-10-2019, 01:41 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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What is the specifications on the Stepper motors?

How fast is the table/travel speeds?

I don't see any limit switches

I assume when your are finished you will mount the computer to the ceiling.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 11-10-2019 at 02:36 PM.
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2019, 11:22 AM
MrCrankyface MrCrankyface is offline
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XY motors are 8Nm and the Z motor is 12Nm, they're all Nema34 with HSS86 driver.

The X and Y have a max speed set at 1500mm/min but I'm sure I could get them above 2000mm/min, I just stopped testing at 1500.

Z seems to limit itself at around 400mm/min due to the weight of the knee.
Any faster and the stepper loses too much torque to be reliable, it'll work maybe 90% of the time but you definitely want it to work 100% of the time.

I'm going to add a Z- switch because it gets a bit stuck at the bottom so I don't want it to go that far, not sure why and haven't looked into it since it's only the last half inch or so.
Possibly also add X and Y switches, haven't had a huge need for it yet since I manually home on the workpiece.
It's not really possible to "crash" it because the drivers very quickly shutoff when the encoder notices it's not following it's steps, sometimes it's so fast you don't even notice it's shut off.
But as I've said before, I have barely any experience.

I'm considering putting the PC on a shelf on the wall so it's a bit more protected, we'll see how long the cables can stretch.(I didn't plan for this step good enough..)


This picture uploads upside down for some reason but it shows the standing splineaxles powering the knee. One transfers power to the powerfeed and one for the rapid traverse.
By removing the bevelgears I could make it stop driving the knee so that gearbox doesn't need to turn anymore, reduced both noise and load on the motor.
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I then started looking into making a cover for the Y and Z motor so they'd stop getting chips on the belts. Originally I was just going to put a plate here that'd double as a tool area ...
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But then I kinda let my creativity loose on this thing...
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Attached a foldable 'desk' area.
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Overkill? Probably. But fun!
Switches from left to right:
On(impulse) for PC box.
On/off for CNC PSU's(if driver sees an error you need to reboot it to reset alarm).
On/off for lights(there is none yet).
Manual-0-auto switch for cutting liquid pump.
Manual-0-auto switch for spindle.
Emergency stop(Yeah I know this isn't correct kind of switch for this purpose).
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Last edited by MrCrankyface; 11-12-2019 at 11:40 AM.
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  #23  
Old 11-12-2019, 11:32 AM
MrCrankyface MrCrankyface is offline
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I've always been a bit annoyed by how far chips can fly and with the machine "automated and unreliable" I'd prefer to have some kind of shield between me and the machine.
I could've gone the 'easy' route and just had something around the spindle but I didn't like that idea since it might hit the work piece/clamps and so on.

I started with a rough concept and ended up around here somewhere.
The main requirement was to shield from any chips aimed "out into the room" and also fold up to minimize space when not in use.
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It was going to be manual until I realized I'd be too lazy to use it .. So automation here we go.
Plastic sheet that will get raised up to bea couple of inches above the spindle.
With the plastic sheet down it stays below the top level of the table, incase I have to mill something that extends the table.
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Here's a look of one sides mechanism. Another motor closes/opens the doors.
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Tore down the control panel and sanded the middle plate while painting everything around it.
Tried to get that "brushed aluminium" look on the panel.
Also added a third switch for the shields/windows in/out.
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Everything except the plastic windows is now mounted, still need to start running wires.
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2019, 12:37 PM
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I'm not sure I understand everything I just read but it appears that you've just about re-invented the the operational parameters of that old mill.
What I think I do understand makes it all appear to be pretty impressive.
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  #25  
Old 11-12-2019, 08:20 PM
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Just in case you have not seen this company.
http://www.mcspt.com/shop/Kearney_an...r_Manuals.html
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  #26  
Old 11-12-2019, 09:57 PM
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greywynd greywynd is offline
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I ran a couple round column mills in high school....can’t recall the make though for sure.

Part of the reason that the drives were done that way was to synchronize them for certain operations. Milling helical and worm gears, for example, the dividing head is connected to, and driven through gears by the power feed.


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  #27  
Old 11-13-2019, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrCrankyface View Post
After using the mill for quite a bit (during those 80h I mentioned) making parts for my 1965 Volvo Amazon(Volvo 121 abroad I believe)
My parents had the wagon version back in the 70s. I think it was 1960 vintage.

Nice write up on your mill and Welcome Aboard from Florida!
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  #28  
Old 11-13-2019, 09:22 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Once the machine is setup and the program is proven good
the three primary buttons that I used on the control panel was

Cycle start .... starts the run and continues after a feed hold.
Feed Hold ..... stops the program without losing position ...does not stop the spindle.
Emergency Stop .. Kills everything including spindle ... likely to lose position and requires checking start position.

I had some issues with twist lock EM-stop buttons if I hit it too fast it would not lock in, spindle would stop and re-start.
ended up if I had to hit it, I would hold it down for at least one second.
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  #29  
Old 11-18-2019, 05:17 AM
MrCrankyface MrCrankyface is offline
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Cycle start and feed hold might be good to have now that you mention it!

Thanks for all the comments!

I decided that it was an absolutely horrible idea to have the CNC screen so far to the side since I need to look at it more often than I thought ...
Found a cheap replacement monitor(used) and of course over-engineered the heck out of the new mount.
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A small geared DC motor runs a winch through a pulley system to raise and lower the screen with the flick of a toggle switch, it stops at either end.
A small string lifts the "shield" when it's down in "use mode".
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https://youtu.be/PbFJgO5jnU8


This allowed me to move the smaller screen to the machine instead.. But I still want to keep the DRO on there due to the backlash in the screws.
Just need to make some kind of bracket so I can mount both.
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First time welding steel with TIG, a lot of fun!
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Just need to plug them back in now but might move computer box first to a better location.
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Last edited by MrCrankyface; 11-18-2019 at 09:13 AM.
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2019, 07:06 AM
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I’ve got to say that you like to trick out the things you make. Very nice!


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