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  #11  
Old 10-13-2019, 02:20 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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In the olden days
An idiot light indicated that the Battery is supplying power to the ALT in order to magnetize its Rotor. as when you first turn on the key.

Once-
The ALT starts sending power back to its self it also feed back power to the idiot light and the light goes out.

Being that the ALT is AC they have a trio diode set that powers the rotor just may be one of the trio diodes have a bad solder connection.

in other words if the light is on the battery is powering the rotor in order for the ALT to charge, may even over charge depends on the regulator and IIRC a resistor.

I remember one ALT that the brushes were worn down and the light would blink, but with that case the ALT would stop charging when the light was on.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 10-13-2019 at 02:37 PM.
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2019, 12:57 PM
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Nothing for a week, then several times in short trip to the Friday night football game.

Unlikely to be the alternator as only some of the electrics cut out and some are fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrash View Post
Just throwing out ideas, Does the Exploder have one of those maxi fuse boxes under the hood on the fender and could you have water infiltration/corrosion going on in there?
Yes it does, I pulled every relay today under the hood and applied some
dielectric grease, they all had some light corrosion. So maybe problem
solved.

I was looking over the schematics in the Haynes Manual. I am thinking the
next option is the keyed ignition switch.

I'll just keep digging and driving it. The engine runs fine and never falters.
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2019, 01:16 PM
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I thought of another possible culprit for your issues. Ford uses a brain to control part of the electrical functions in its vehicles. It's referred to as the GEM module Generic Electronic Module. Issues with a GEM will cause all kinds of wonky problems. We had a super duty that would lose the wipers and window functions intermittently. It was the GEM. I found a discussion about GEM's on a Expedition Forum. Take a look at it.https://www.expeditionforum.com/thre...control.18616/
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2019, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetrash View Post
I thought of another possible culprit for your issues. Ford uses a brain to control part of the electrical functions in its vehicles. It's referred to as the GEM module Generic Electronic Module. Issues with a GEM will cause all kinds of wonky problems. We had a super duty that would lose the wipers and window functions intermittently. It was the GEM. I found a discussion about GEM's on a Expedition Forum. Take a look at it.https://www.expeditionforum.com/thre...control.18616/
Thanks I will look into that! I will be driving up to Minneapolis tomorrow, or
at least a good ways up there. I have customer meetings on Tuesday then
pick up my buddy, Todd, at the MSP airport on Wednesday and head to deer
camp near Hixton, WI, hunt and then drive Todd back up to MSP on Saturday
for his flight out. Then back home on Sunday.
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  #15  
Old 10-21-2019, 09:18 AM
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Traditionally, the gem relay fails,.. something to swap out with a different relay ?
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2020, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
I have checked the battery voltage with the car off, key out and battery
connected to the car. 12.98- 12.99V

With the car running the voltage is 14.22-14.25V
The problem still persists and is getting a bit more frequent. Really annoying.

Update, I have pulled all the relays and fuses and put silicone grease on all
the connectors thinking I has some corrosion and was getting an open.
Checked everything I could find and get to for loose wires.

Discussed with Mark at dinner in Lubbock and he gave me some ideas, so
yesterday when I was troubleshooting it again, my voltage readings were
very strange and noisey. So my voltage measured at the battery while the
car was running varied between 13.5 volts and 15.5 volts and was very very
noisy. The only way I got the high and low reading was using the Min/Max
feature on my Fluke meter.

So I disconnected my negative battery cable and the voltage stabilized at
14.5 volts and the battery was at 12.2. So I think I might have a bad cell in
the battery that is causing my issues, the old battery is 2 years old and still
under warrantee, so I bought a new battery last night and swapped them
today and I will see if that solves the issue.
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2020, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
The problem still persists and is getting a bit more frequent. Really annoying.

Update, I have pulled all the relays and fuses and put silicone grease on all
the connectors thinking I has some corrosion and was getting an open.
Checked everything I could find and get to for loose wires.

Discussed with Mark at dinner in Lubbock and he gave me some ideas, so
yesterday when I was troubleshooting it again, my voltage readings were
very strange and noisey. So my voltage measured at the battery while the
car was running varied between 13.5 volts and 15.5 volts and was very very
noisy. The only way I got the high and low reading was using the Min/Max
feature on my Fluke meter.

So I disconnected my negative battery cable and the voltage stabilized at
14.5 volts and the battery was at 12.2. So I think I might have a bad cell in
the battery that is causing my issues, the old battery is 2 years old and still
under warrantee, so I bought a new battery last night and swapped them
today and I will see if that solves the issue.
I hope that solves the issue Shade!
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2020, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post

Today when the wife and I ran into town for lunch and some errands,
the power in the cabin would cut out and then back again only out for
a second at most.

What else could it be?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Nothing for a week, then several times in short trip to the Friday night football game.

Unlikely to be the alternator as only some of the electrics cut out and some are fine.

>Sounds about right, I agree.

I was looking over the schematics in the Haynes Manual. I am thinking the
next option is the keyed ignition switch.

I'll just keep digging and driving it. The engine runs fine and never falters.

> check, its not on that Line, next...?? lights, horn,radio, Acc....
You need to map out what is working and what is on the problem Line. the word "cabin" is not enough.

2011 its hard to say but on "some cars" everything is powered by the computer directly or indirectly by relays.

Did you check error codes?

I would try to total-out the items not working and figure/guess how many amps we are talking about. that may give us an idea of how hot the wires may get with a loose connection.

I have had issues with the plug that the ignition switch connects to, did not take a lot to guess that one it was getting hot, also back of my fuse box getting hot another bad connection.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 01-11-2020 at 01:01 PM.
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  #19  
Old 01-11-2020, 01:28 PM
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Shade Tree Welder Shade Tree Welder is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
You need to map out what is working and what is on the problem Line. the word "cabin" is not enough.

2011 its hard to say but on "some cars" everything is powered by the computer directly or indirectly by relays.

Did you check error codes?

I would try to total-out the items not working and figure/guess how many amps we are talking about. that may give us an idea of how hot the wires may get with a loose connection.

I have had issues with the plug that the ignition switch connects to, did not take a lot to guess that one it was getting hot, also back of my fuse box getting hot another bad connection.
No codes systems are complete random and by now everything has been
going on and off RANDOMLY. The only 2 item are not effected are the main
head lights (include in the brake and turn signals) and the engine. Fog lamps
cut in and out and EVERY other system...
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2020, 03:08 PM
kbs2244 kbs2244 is offline
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After some work that involved halfway removing the steering stick my 98 Lincoln would sometimes lose all dash power for a while.
The car would continue to run fine for as long as 5 min when this happened.
I chalked it up to a loose connector down at the bottom and ignored it.
I sold it with 200k plus on it a year ago.
The new owner says it still does it but has taken my path since it continues to run fine.
A well aimed squirt of WD40 may solve the problem.
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