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  #31  
Old 02-06-2020, 11:02 PM
Don_S Don_S is offline
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If the piston screws onto the rod, assemble them and drill a hole at approximately the pitch diameter of the thread through both the rod and piston. I wouldn't go all the way through. You could either tap it for a setscrew or just put a pin in it and peen the hole over to keep it from escaping.

It will not come loose if you keep the pin in place as it has to shear the pin across its length.
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  #32  
Old 02-20-2020, 09:34 PM
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Figured would add a photo or two
Not many other guys have expressed appreciation for the disc sander repair, but I sure do like it. Had to make this rod end and while I did cut most of the corners off, and then using a shell index mill cutter to get closer to the round line, I finished it up on the disc sander.

Of course today, the guys were trying to say I made the new rods to short because the rod would retract so far and the wiper would get into the weld area, but they didn’t realize that when they ordered a different style wiper than originally in it, it stuck out a quarter inch longer.



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  #33  
Old 03-08-2020, 11:52 AM
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Default Made a thin bushing

Made a new screw for a nice heavy c-clamp at work. The old one was badly mangled by others over the years, and I was going to try to straighten it, but decided to make a new one instead in some slow time at the shop.

Found a scrap piece of cylinder rod in the scrap pile and turned it down. And then did the threads. Probably had just over an hour doing this. If I had a paying job to do, it would have been better use of my time, but I figure in the slow time, repairing tools so we do not have to buy new ones qualifies as good use of time, as well as good practice for doing different things.

Had a little deflection in the middle, since it was only 3/4” diameter and over 12” long. But I held the tolerance closer than the original.

I was going to make the foot, but showed it to the guy that does most of the pumps, and he went scroungingin the scrap brass bucket and cane up with the old pistons ends. Couple of slices with a hack saw and a punch and hammer, and the foot was on.

Used a piece of 3/8” chrome rod for the handle. Turned couple end pieces and pressed them on the ends. Left a vee groove in case I might need to tig weld them.

Now to keep the gorillas in the shop from using it.


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  #34  
Old 03-08-2020, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
Figured would add a photo or two
Not many other guys have expressed appreciation for the disc sander repair, but I sure do like it. Had to make this rod end and while I did cut most of the corners off, and then using a shell index mill cutter to get closer to the round line, I finished it up on the disc sander.

Of course today, the guys were trying to say I made the new rods to short because the rod would retract so far and the wiper would get into the weld area, but they didn’t realize that when they ordered a different style wiper than originally in it, it stuck out a quarter inch longer.

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What horsepower do you have on that sander?
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  #35  
Old 03-11-2020, 11:12 AM
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Default Made a thin bushing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
What horsepower do you have on that sander?


Jerry, it is a 2 hp motor, 1750 RPM, 15” diameter backing plate.

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  #36  
Old 03-20-2020, 08:43 PM
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Machining was getting slow, so I got around to making a threaded plate to mount a 6” 3 jaw chuck to the dividing head we have at work. I spent several hours cleaning and derusting the dividing head also.
I get to share the chuck with the welder, since the shop just bought it couple months ago for him to hold small cylinder rods and barrels to weld them up. He made a quick plate and welded it to a pipe that he puts in rollers to rotate as he is welding.

I made up a new pipe with the same 1- 1/2”x 8 TPI threads so the chuck can easily be changed from the dividing head to the welders pipe, where it will live most of the time.

I then cut a piece of 5 1/2” chrome rod to make the backing plate from an scrap piece. Set up in the mill and drilled the three mounting holes after using my co-axial indicator to find the center and a bolt hole program to locate the holes. Counter sunk the holes, but need to get flat head screws, so just used regular metric cap screws for now. Bolt holes aligned great.

I had just roughed out the center hole, and waited to thread the mounting hole til I had it mounted onto the chuck, and then chucked up a old bar and ran a trueing cut on it, then tightened the 3 jaw chuck on the bar, figuring that this would give me the least possible runout when done. I had some chatter, so had to take light cuts, and I wanted a tight thread. I had made the pipe thread first, and using thread wires, knew I had it within couple thousands of the dividing head thread, and used the pipe as an initial test fit when close.
Still had make several more passes for the dividing head to fit though.

Then I milled 2” flat hex on the plate mount so I can get an adjustable wrench on it to take on and off.

Looked pretty good when done. Put a test rod in it and had .0014” runout. Should be good enough for the the paying job I did this for. But I did want this for other projects, do this is a nice addition to tool arsenal at work. Next, I will make one for the four jaw chuck we have.

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  #37  
Old 03-20-2020, 08:44 PM
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  #38  
Old 03-24-2020, 10:18 PM
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The parts I made using the newly mounted chuck on the dividing head.
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  #39  
Old 03-25-2020, 12:04 AM
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Nicely done!

Used to get into some wierd angled holes like that. A small ball nose end mill is sometimes better than a centre drill. Or sometimes a slot drill/endmill to make a small flat first. Different ways to skin a cat.


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  #40  
Old 04-06-2020, 11:39 AM
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Default Made a thin bushing

Honest, I’m not bored, just trying to rebuild some tools so we don’t have to spend a lot of money to buy replacements.

Coworker asked if I might be able to weld up and repair worn out hone heads. He thinks it is causing some problems with honing cylinder barrels, and to replace the head is $1500. Guess we have several that I can repair.

I decided to make new pieces, and weld up the set screws and turn them back down. However, next time I do the screws, I will spray weld them up, because the welder guy managed to melt the Allen hole pretty well, and took me a while to grind them back out to fit the 7/32 Allen wrench. But the $10 harbor freight 12v die grinder and accessories (especially the small diamond bits) are coming in handy.

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