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  #11  
Old 01-18-2020, 02:12 PM
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Use lots of task lighting to help you see better, and glasses, cheaters or whatever else you need. If you can’t see/tell what’s going on, you’ll never resolve it for sure.


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  #12  
Old 01-18-2020, 05:57 PM
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No scratch in the start just lay the cup down and tip it until the tungsten hits and back off and your lit
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  #13  
Old 01-18-2020, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
That's what I ended up doing... But got other Bigger problems with TIG side of that Horrid freight Vulcan machine the Omni 220 pro turns out The TIG is a mid-evil scratch start and That really sucks... plus I'm so darn near-blind anyhow even with my hood setting on shade 5... I can barely see to weld and my welds sort of suck too... so I thought...

But I think it is more the machine and contamination of my electrode dipping habit I have seem to of developed...

But turns out there are more issues coming in to play besides my eyesight and dipping habit... he told me the tubing is 304 and it is mixed 304 and something else and the filler rod is 318L,

I start out with my heat at 50 amps and bring it down a little once my puddle starts and it seems one piece is harder than the other and takes more heat to make fluid and when adding filler rod well it just doesn't flow just beads...
so something is going wrong somewhere I can't figure out I know I'm not so great at TIG but I'm not this bad at TIGing either...
I think they make a pedal for the Vulcan 220.
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  #14  
Old 01-18-2020, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
I think they make a pedal for the Vulcan 220.
Yup, https://www.harborfreight.com/tig-fo...rol-63895.html
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2020, 10:51 PM
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It's still a scratch start even with the pedal will not start arc with pedal and upon looking at the destructions it states scratch start torch so it was very misleading advert info on the machine... IMO.
Byt have no complaints with the other side of it stick MIG or spool gun functions

But I'm looking into another machine a miller perhaps or an older Hobart before it was bought out by miller.

to ignite arc with the tig torch form the manual

12. To initiate welding arc, push Foot Pedal and touch
Electrode to work piece and lift. If not using Foot
Pedal, touch Electrode to work piece and lift.

Last edited by MetalWolf; 01-18-2020 at 11:06 PM.
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  #16  
Old 01-18-2020, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
It's still a scratch start even with the pedal will not start arc with pedal and upon looking at the destructions it states scratch start torch so it was very misleading advert info on the machine... IMO.
Byt have no complaints with the other side of it stick MIG or spool gun functions

But I'm looking into another machine a miller perhaps or an older Hobart before it was bought out by miller.
Starting is not the issue with scratch start. It is the stopping that will give you porosity at the stop point. With a pedal that issue is gone.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2020, 03:33 AM
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Yeah, having a foot control alone doesn't eliminate scratch starting. The only way to do that is to have a machine with high frequency AC, then the arc will jump from the workpiece to the tungsten without ever touching. Makes for much neater welds.

More tig welds are spoiled by scratch starting than by stopping the weld. If you're getting porosity at the end of a weld your gas post-flow time is probably too short...
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  #18  
Old 01-19-2020, 09:36 PM
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Well, the way its set up I can use the tig torch with my portable welder if I need to do ant tig that doesn't matter
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  #19  
Old 01-20-2020, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
Yeah, having a foot control alone doesn't eliminate scratch starting. The only way to do that is to have a machine with high frequency AC, then the arc will jump from the workpiece to the tungsten without ever touching. Makes for much neater welds.

More tig welds are spoiled by scratch starting than by stopping the weld. If you're getting porosity at the end of a weld your gas post-flow time is probably too short...
There is no post flow without a foot control on the machines that I have run, one must a shut off th gas on the torch so post flow should not be a problem.
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Last edited by digr; 01-20-2020 at 02:28 PM.
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  #20  
Old 01-20-2020, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
There is no post flow without a foot control on the machines that I have run, one must a shut off on the torch so post flow should not be a problem.


+1. The scratch start (lift start actually) Miller maxstar I used to use, was pretty nice. It was definitely easier if I used the remote control or foot pedal to be able to shut the arc off at the end of the weld and allow the argon to continue to cool the weld.

Now when I used the tig torch off the engine drive Trailblazer, and using scratch start technique, and not using the foot control, it was tricky to end the weld arc, and still keep the argon flow on the weld because you had to pull the torch so far away to break the arc, and it usually caused some other arcs spots on the work. This is where it would be helpful to have a cutoff switch on the main lead at least.

Also, this was using a tig torch with a manual gas valve on torch body.


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