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  #31  
Old 04-11-2019, 06:44 PM
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terry lingle terry lingle is offline
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When people talk about short stubs I have visions of bag ladies picking up discarded butts.
I can also envision beguiler welders rooting around in the scrap metal bin for rod stubs.

I had a partner that built and sold 100 ton horizontal presses..
He used some exotic and very expensive rod. Pre and post heat on the critical stuff was a big part of the welding.
He saved every stub over about 2 inchs and used them for taking up.
I will also point out that he was Scottish I swear he cried every time the garbage truck came
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  #32  
Old 04-12-2019, 08:35 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Thanks to all for the replies, I think I learned something form all of them.

I suppose I will leave the 40' long piece and use it as one run. This means I now must look for another section of wire nearly as long. I also need to find a primary feed wire, probably at least 6awg. I don't expect to need more than this but I would not pass on something larger.
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  #33  
Old 04-15-2019, 09:29 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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As soon as my new engine was installed I was off to pick up the welder. I took of some of the covers and found a dirty but seemingly unmolested interior.

I'm thinking I will brush and blow some of the accumulated dust off, especially on some of the contacts and pots. Do you all think this is a good plan?

I will show a few pictures for you all to comment on. The first is of what I think are the two lugs for the input lines. You can see the cable clamp at the bottom where the lines come into the welder. Near the top there is a dark gray box. On each side of the box there is a copper strip with a bolt and nut going through it, the nuts are loose. Can someone confirm that these are the input connections?

Edit: This picture is upside down.
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A technologically advanced society would teach their children how to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together before teaching them how to use a lighter.

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Last edited by cutter; 04-15-2019 at 12:11 PM. Reason: added rotated picture
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  #34  
Old 04-15-2019, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece View Post

I'm thinking I will brush and blow some of the accumulated dust off, especially on some of the contacts and pots. Do you all think this is a good plan?
.
Yes... BUT
Maybe see if it has some life first.

FIRST Post the code number so we can find the right manual!

Make sure you don't have any water coming out of the compressor!

If you can, Stay away from the Selenium Rectifier! (the big thing with all the fins) they can be fragile!
very low air pressure on the S-Rectifier and do not bind or scratch the fins!

The Rectifier is what changes AC to DC.
Selenium Rectifier can NOT really be replaced by diodes without issues.

The big lugs are on the contactor are NOT likely the INPUT.
EDIT: there is an option for a Line contactor, so maybe. look for a second contactor.

INPUT Likely closer to the voltage change selector, copper strips.
Look for markings H1, H2, H3

Take a look at the contacts on the contactor maybe they are burned up, just maybe why the welder ended up for scrap.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 04-15-2019 at 01:19 PM.
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  #35  
Old 04-15-2019, 01:04 PM
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Maybe NOT the right manual, but A manual.
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  #36  
Old 04-15-2019, 01:40 PM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
Yes... BUT
Maybe see if it has some life first.

FIRST Post the code number so we can find the right manual!

Make sure you don't have any water coming out of the compressor!

If you can, Stay away from the Selenium Rectifier! (the big thing with all the fins) they can be fragile!
very low air pressure on the S-Rectifier and do not bind or scratch the fins!

The Rectifier is what changes AC to DC.
Selenium Rectifier can NOT really be replaced by diodes without issues.

The big lugs are on the contactor are NOT likely the INPUT.
EDIT: there is an option for a Line contactor, so maybe. look for a second contactor.

INPUT Likely closer to the voltage change selector, copper strips.
Look for markings H1, H2, H3

Take a look at the contacts on the contactor maybe they are burned up, just maybe why the welder ended up for scrap.
Thank you for the input but I have a few questions. I hope you don't mind.

Water in the compressor? Would this be torch coolant? The fittings marked "water inlet and to torch" on the front panel show signs of corrosion as if they were not used. Next to them are fittings for "gas inlet and to torch" which have bright looking threads as if a hose was recently removed.

Is the selenium rectifier shown in the picture below?
This picture is upside down.
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ID:	150370  
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A technologically advanced society would teach their children how to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together before teaching them how to use a lighter.

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Last edited by cutter; 04-15-2019 at 04:15 PM. Reason: added rotated picture
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  #37  
Old 04-15-2019, 02:19 PM
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toprecycler toprecycler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece View Post
Thank you for the input but I have a few questions. I hope you don't mind.

Water in the compressor? Would this be torch coolant? The fittings marked "water inlet and to torch" on the front panel show signs of corrosion as if they were not used. Next to them are fittings for "gas inlet and to torch" which have bright looking threads as if a hose was recently removed.

Is the selenium rectifier shown in the picture below?
This picture is upside down.


I believe the water was referring to water in the air compressors you are blowing the welder out with. Don’t want to add any high pressure moisture into the welder windings and contacts.




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  #38  
Old 04-15-2019, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece View Post

Is the selenium rectifier shown in the picture below?
This picture is upside down.
No it's not in that picture. I guess its in the lower half.
About a foot long and a lot of fins.


Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
I believe the water was referring to water in the air compressors you are blowing the welder out with. Don’t want to add any high pressure moisture into the welder windings and contacts.
Yes that is what I was referring to.

the upper half has the high frequency/high voltage transformer, don't get any water there
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  #39  
Old 04-16-2019, 08:16 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Using the code number (7499) I was able to find the operation manual. On page 5 of the manual there is a picture much like the one I showed in post 33. As I suspected the lugs on each side of the dark gray box are the connection for L1 and L2.

After I check that the jumper is connected to the lower voltage it looks like I will be ready to test this beast out but I don't have any rod. I suppose I will use 1/8" copper coated rod for the test.
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A technologically advanced society would teach their children how to start a fire by rubbing two sticks together before teaching them how to use a lighter.

Aren't energy consumption and computers supposed to make life less stressful?

If you are not having fun then you are doing it wrong.

Last edited by threepiece; 04-16-2019 at 08:22 AM.
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  #40  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:44 AM
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LKeithR LKeithR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece View Post
...I suppose I will use 1/8" copper coated rod for the test...
????? Never heard of copper coated rod. Get some 6013 or 7018 to play with...
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