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  #91  
Old 11-01-2009, 08:27 PM
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That is really coming together nicely

I like the way the disconnect/fuse box is side mounted within easy reach. The junction box is a great way to separate out the wiring to the blade welder (& machine light, if you have one).
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  #92  
Old 11-01-2009, 08:30 PM
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That's a nice clean looking installation, looks like it was built that way.
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  #93  
Old 11-02-2009, 05:00 PM
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Well done. You will really enjoy the fruits of your labor.

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  #94  
Old 11-02-2009, 08:25 PM
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Well, I'll be a monkeys aunt.


Thanks Barry,

On that note IF IT WASN"T for Barry's excellent how to I would have been completely lost. In combination of Barrys tuturiol instructions and the manual. It took all of about 5 minutes once power was turned on, and it didn't go up in a ball of green flames as I had expected.


I had to reference the manual only twice and this was because I had to push the start button, once but also the m button more than once. Once this was established (figured out) everything was smooth sailing.


I was able to get the VFD fully wired and installed. I ended up not using crimp connectors as I wanted to. Only because they wouldn't fit into the slots provided.


I changed the trans oil to some Vactra number 1.


Here are some pictures.
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  #95  
Old 11-02-2009, 08:29 PM
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Okay, Now I'm really excited. Not only did the saw start and run. It ran the very first blade I ever welded.

Yes, I used the blade welder on some 3/8" X 24T carbon stock. It worked excellently. I actually practiced on 3 welds. Then moved into doing the blade for the saw. Good thing I bought the band stock.


The welder works really slick and there are a minimum of sparks on the carbon blades. I will be picking up some Bimetal so, I'll know more than.

Does anybody have some 3/4 and or 1" bimetal blades that are scrap? I'd be willing to pay shipping!!!!! I'd rather practice on junk first.

Sorry about the pictures. The auto focus doesn't do well without a back ground. I'll take more maybe tomorrow.
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  #96  
Old 11-02-2009, 08:33 PM
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On another note, one of my friends, Yes I have more than one

came by and I asked if he had some stainless plate. He said no but I know where I can get some. So, I have some 14guage stainless to make the new mag starter plate out of.
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  #97  
Old 11-02-2009, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
not using crimp connectors as I wanted to. Only because they wouldn't fit into the slots provided.
I forgot to mention that you have to narrow the sides of the connectors (on a belt sander or even a fine grinding wheel) as the slots are small. Had to do that on all four VFD's

You think they would make them 1/8" wider ...
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  #98  
Old 11-02-2009, 10:02 PM
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Looks like a nice clean installation. Two well setup saws now. It should make it a lot more convenient to turn out parts for more projects.
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  #99  
Old 11-02-2009, 10:10 PM
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That's really cool, Jenn.
Another very nice thread, too.
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  #100  
Old 11-03-2009, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by precisionworks View Post
I forgot to mention that you have to narrow the sides of the connectors (on a belt sander or even a fine grinding wheel) as the slots are small. Had to do that on all four VFD's

You think they would make them 1/8" wider ...
I was amazed to find they wouldn't go in. I actually over did it on the wiring some. I used #10 THHN for all the wiring I put in. Really over kill but is what I had extra from my panel install and #12 is rated to 20amps.

The VFD called for 25amps, and the motor 6.9amps, The spec's for the blade welder. Don't know since it's not of the tag. At least not that I remember.

The original fuses were a 15 slow blow. So, I figured the welder must use the most power. And in it's normal 3phase mode #12 wire would have worked. But, with the VFD and claiming 25amps. I figured from the info that the #10 would be best/safest since it's rated to 30amps.

So, yup I was very surprised. I actually ground down the side on the connecters I had but they still wouldn't go in. So, I mickey'd it with just sliding the wires in and tightening the screws. I know, I know, what a hack
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