Hyd-Mech S20

[greywynd]

I have a blade welder on the vertical saw, not sure if it would have the power to weld a 1” blade though. After I have one die, I’ll play with that and see what happens. It also depends on the reason for the failure and that may help me decide if I’ll buy blade stock or not. 1” blade stock won’t be cheap.

I’ve welded lots of blades in the past, will wait and see on this which way I go.


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[LKeithR]

Originally Posted by greywynd

...I have a blade welder on the vertical saw, not sure if it would have the power to weld a 1” blade though...

We had a good Taiwanese made vertical bandsaw with a blade welder built in. Tried welding 1" blades but it didn't work. You could weld the blade so it held together but the welder didn't have enough oomph to achieve complete fusion and they always broke as soon as you put much tension on them.

I buy 1" blades for our Ellis from a local supplier. They're 120" long and current cost is $56.80 Cdn. Blade stock is German, assembled by a place in Ontario and sold by a supplier just down the road from us. They are excellent blades; usually last a long time. Based on the length (14'-10") a blade for your saw would be around $95, possibly even less since Edmonton is a hot spot for industrial supplies...

[RLC]

Have a S20-A for over a year now. very reliable saw. only problem sometimes when fully relying on the auto part, is blade tension loosening when there's too much vibration in the blade. likely resulting from incorrect force and speed settings

[LKeithR]

Oh man, not another Albertan! Welcome to the zoo...

[Ironman]

Originally Posted by LKeithR

Oh man, not another Albertan! Welcome to the zoo...

Got that right. Not a canadian, an Albertan.

[greywynd]

Originally Posted by RLC

Have a S20-A for over a year now. very reliable saw. only problem sometimes when fully relying on the auto part, is blade tension loosening when there's too much vibration in the blade. likely resulting from incorrect force and speed settings

A friend was a service tech for hydmech for a couple years, I can ask if he has any ideas on that one.

I never used an ‘A’ version, just the S-20’s.


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[greywynd]

As I mentioned in the what’d you do today thread, I got some larger stuff into the saw to try it out.

Not optimized by any means, it’s a ‘mystery’ steel, will be a tough steel, maybe 4140 or something similar. Feed was set at slow, and timed as 18 minutes even for cutting 8 1/4” stock.

I have come to realize that I’ll need to start watching coolant, in the two weeks since I used it last, enough water has evaporated that the coolant is thicker than it was. I’ll do some hunting and see if I can find a cheap refractometer.







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[Ironman]

Originally Posted by RLC

Have a S20-A for over a year now. very reliable saw. only problem sometimes when fully relying on the auto part, is blade tension loosening when there's too much vibration in the blade. likely resulting from incorrect force and speed settings

Blade tension coming loose, the thread is most likely worn. Easy fix.
I find vibration in mine when the feed is too heavy or the material to thin for the tooth number. Slower blade speeds are also a cause for vibration.
My saw is a small 7" chinese saw, but a blade is a blade. I use a variable tooth 10-14 blade.

[digr]

The adjustable guide being to close to the work will cause viberation