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  #11  
Old 07-13-2019, 08:59 AM
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DON'T FUCK WITH OIL VISCOSITY!!!
RUN WHAT THE MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS!!!!


Higher viscosity oil DOES NOT lubricate better!!!

Black oil is doing its job!!! Clean oil means the dirt is being left in your engine!!!!

I can discuss more when I am back home...
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  #12  
Old 07-13-2019, 10:30 AM
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It doesn't use oil, it starts and has power. I'd say leave it alone. Check to make sure the air cleaner and the whole air induction system is clean and clear. Any restriction in the air will cause black smoke when the injectors open up under a load. I'd say the same as Ron, just a little quieter.
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  #13  
Old 07-13-2019, 10:33 AM
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My eyes hurt ,my ears hurt.
Are you saying we should choose oil by it's colour?
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  #14  
Old 07-13-2019, 03:46 PM
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Might also want to add some fuel conditioner for a few tanks. It will clean your injectors so you have a better spray. Worked on my Massey tractor.
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  #15  
Old 07-13-2019, 04:05 PM
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What prompted this thread in the first place was rough running, bit less power, and oil pressure light coming on @ idle - all the good advice reminded me just how long it'd been since I treated 'zilla with more respect than a $10 ho(e)

This morning I started checking stuff, found the radiator about 1/3 covered in chaff (had mowed around/over an area in the pasture where I'd dumped several dump truck loads of leftovers from a 800+ yard cut/fill I'd done a few years back (about 2/3 acre more level ground than there useta be) - it was past time to smooth out the dumpings, which were overgrown with 3' tall grass and blackberries

Apparently I hadn't used the backpack blower quite long enough to get a big enough grass/chaff free zone before busting up the piles and spreading 'em out enough to use the gannon box to finish the job; hence the partly plugged radiator fins, which prompted me to...

Checked coolant level next, took just over a gallon (4 gallon system)

Pulled the air pre-cleaner/filter, blew out maybe 3-4 POUNDS of crud

Oil (yeah, Delo 30) still up on the stick, kind of a "dark honey", stick still visible thru it. Next time...

Only got 5 more of the 13 hydraulic cylinders left to re-pack, be nice if I ever stop bein' reminded of the old saying "the hurrier I go, the behinder I get"

Chris, thanks for that; think I still have a few bottles of injector cleaner.

Thanks again fer the push guys, and for Shade - LESSON LEARNED (see pic)
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  #16  
Old 07-14-2019, 09:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BukitCase View Post
Thanks again fer the push guys, and for Shade - LESSON LEARNED (see pic)
I agree with Chris a few fuel tanks worth of injector cleaner should do you well.
I have had good luck with Power Service branded product.

Stick with the recommended viscosity grade of oil. You actually can starve
equipment of lubrication with higher viscosity oil, especially going up 2 SAE
grades!!! SAE grades have wide enough specification as it is. Often 1 SAE
grade cover 2-3 ISO grades.

Viscosity is the resistance of a fluid to flow. So going to higher viscosity
grade reduce your flow of oil. Going up 2 SAE grade is going to increase
the resistance A LOT! Think of it as trying to drink an extra thick milk
shake through one of the hollow coffee mixer sticks.

Also if you live in a region where temps get below 32°F in the winter for
longer than a day or 2, I would recommend a 10W30 multi-grade versus
your single grade SAE 30. If you don't get below freezing for long periods
or don't run the engine when it is cold or store in a heated garage, your
good with the single grade oil.

http://docs.mystiklubes.com/msds_pi/M20003.pdf

They have single grades as well.

https://www.mystiklubes.com/do/category/OFF_HIGHWAY
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  #17  
Old 07-16-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
I can’t say I’ve seen an older diesel that doesn’t turn the oil black.

If the level isn’t dropping, then it’s not leaking or burning oil IMO.

Black smoke with a diesel usually means incomplete burn.....either too much fuel, or not enough air.

If it was a blueish smoke, especially if the oil is dropping some, then I would say it’s burning oil.

And always start with basic maintenace, check/change air and fuel filters.


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I'd have to agree with that.

Some of your concern is due to unfamiliarity with diesel. If it is non-turbo it will smoke under load. If it is a turbo'd engine it will burn clean and really smoke under overloading.

A naturally aspirated diesel with pintle type mechanical injectors (yours)will quickly dirty your oil, but the black oil is still serviceable and should protect the machine for it's normal rated hours. It will have the loud diesel knock that is so familiar.

The modern common rail injection, computer controlled systems we have today are a far cry from the older engines for clean burning and fuel economy. As an example, my daily driver is a '82 Mercedes, turbo and pintle injection , no computer. It is 2500lb and gets me 10 liters burnt for 100km driven.
My '06 Dodge truck, at 5200lb, 3 times the horsepower, with computers and common rail injection, gets me 10.6 liters per 100km, and on long trips has dropped to 9.5 liters.

What is not turned into horsepower is turned into soot, and that will blacken your oil on the Case.

And as an aside, changing to a heavy oil viscosity, besides not lubricating as well because it can't get into small spaces, will actually increase your fuel burn up to 5 gallons in 12 hrs, and dirty your oil faster. (My experience on a genset.)
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  #18  
Old 07-16-2019, 11:45 AM
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Has the fuel filter been changed?
thats the first thing i do...
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  #19  
Old 07-16-2019, 11:35 PM
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Is that engine the 3.9L cdc engine or the case engine? The case engine tends to use less oil running what is commonly refered to as 30 weight diesel oil, sorry shade I know that's not the proper term but I'm drawing a blank for some reason. The CDC engine, is better off with 15W-40 diesel oil. The concern about the oil turning black, that's just a diesel engine, my old 1070 will be pitch black after a day of working it.
The black smoke under heavy load is normal. Excessive black smoke is usually an air problem, filter plugged or in the case of a turbocharged engine, lack of boost either by a leak or a failed turbo.
Probably the best way to gauge the condition of the rings and sleeves is the amount of blow by.
Since you said it's not using oil I would say that it probably wasn't a rattle can overhaul and you need to quit worrying so much.
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Last edited by Dr Dean; 07-16-2019 at 11:46 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2019, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Dean View Post
...referred to as 30 weight diesel oil, sorry shade I know that's not the proper term but I'm drawing a blank for some reason...
SAE 30 (viscosity grade) you get partial credit for paying attention!
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