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  #241  
Old 07-04-2019, 09:54 PM
Samcord Samcord is offline
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I doubt that you will see any difference, and the dual simplex xceiver may not even work. It depends on what is at the other end.
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  #242  
Old 07-04-2019, 10:30 PM
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It depends on what is at the other end.
The system is going to be....
Satellite outputs to the modem,
Modem CAT5 cable sends signal to the transceiver. (matched units)
Transceiver 1 feeds into optic line.
Transceiver 2 on other end feeds signal out to CAT5 port
CAT5 cable feeds it into home router.

Before you say it won't work...it already does. I just want it to be the best I can make it. That way, any latency or speed issues I can take up with the satellite provider, instead of with me.
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  #243  
Old 07-05-2019, 10:33 AM
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toprecycler toprecycler is offline
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
The system is going to be....

Satellite outputs to the modem,

Modem CAT5 cable sends signal to the transceiver. (matched units)

Transceiver 1 feeds into optic line.

Transceiver 2 on other end feeds signal out to CAT5 port

CAT5 cable feeds it into home router.



Before you say it won't work...it already does. I just want it to be the best I can make it. That way, any latency or speed issues I can take up with the satellite provider, instead of with me.


Hmm, now you got me thinking Gerry. I might have to look into the FO for when I bury a gas line to my shop. I was going to put in a wire to see if I can get an internet line out there. I have to go about 350’.

Soon my power company is running FO to all their electric meters, and will be hooking me up with high speed internet. I am almost starting to have all the nice features of living in town, in my nice secluded wooded country scrapyard.


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  #244  
Old 07-05-2019, 05:28 PM
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Hmm, now you got me thinking Gerry. I might have to look into the FO for when I bury a gas line to my shop. I was going to put in a wire to see if I can get an internet line out there. I have to go about 350’.

Soon my power company is running FO to all their electric meters, and will be hooking me up with high speed internet. I am almost starting to have all the nice features of living in town, in my nice secluded wooded country scrapyard.


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That is my exact distance to my shop. I can tell you in my case the CAT5 will fail at that distance. YMMV
I was really concerned with all the warnings and crap I read on it. Then I looked at some repair video on youtube. Man they are brutal to that stuff. A copper wire would not survive the splicing process. I became much more confident.
If you do consider this setup, you can get these anywhere.
Duplex transcievers...need one for each end

150 meters armored cable It converts to 490ft so gives you extra for running indoors at each end.

Pay attention to FO ports when ordering, becaise there is more than one type out there. I went with the SC ports and plugs

It is absolutely seamless in operation, plug and play. You can hire someone to put all this together, but you will pay the price then.

Edit...one good reason to buy armored cable, outside of the obvious, is that it can be located by a line locator. That's why they tape a copper wire to your plastic gas line, so it can be found.
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The virtue is always a cover for the sin. That's the key to understanding the modern left. Whatever they're accusing you of doing, they are doing themselves but more enthusiastically. And that's definitely the story of Justin Trudeau. Tucker Carlson

Last edited by Ironman; 07-05-2019 at 05:37 PM.
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  #245  
Old 07-09-2019, 03:03 PM
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camdigger camdigger is offline
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That is the way it is commonly done and I am told is a half assed way of doing it.
The right? way is to do as you said, dump bleach down the well and recirc with a garden hose. Next, measure your static head level. Next you would mix up a 500 to 1000 gallon tank of bleach and water.
After the well has mixed the bleach in it, you now pump that tankful down the well. This brings the water level above the normal static head, and you wait for this mixture to percolate down through the bed and kill all the little fuckers in the surrounding terrain. Once the water has reached the static line, shut down circulation and wait till the next day, and then start pumping out the bleach.



One word - Hemochromatosis.
Thiobacillus ferrooxidans bacteria combine iron and manganese with oxygen to form deposits of "rust", and a slimy build up. This deposits slime and crap into pipes and water tanks. They are a common soil bacteria, I just don't want them in my well.
A water well driller local to you may be willing to provide the bleach and a tank to dump down your well to shock it. I had the local dude bring 300 gallons of chlorinated water in a tank truck. we let the water sit 24 hours, then pumped the well to flush it. Didn't help much as the aquifer itself has been contaminated with the iron bacteria.

There are pellet dispenser type units that would fit on your wellhead that chlorinate the water in the well. Our system actually chlorinates the water in a holding tank in the basement and then runs it through a charcoal filter. Works good until the clock stops when the power goes out. causes the backwash cycle to occur while there is demand for water in the house. that puts dead iron bacteria and chlorine in the lines. Difficult to remove. Still mostly filtered water is better than untreated here.
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  #246  
Old 07-09-2019, 10:07 PM
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We've been sucking on this aquifer for 20 years so far with only a two stage filter to keep the cooties and coal dust out.
All has been good and the water tastes fine. So I will run with that.
Someday if the money tree blooms, I will have a well co. come in and pull the 3.5" casing and install a 6-8" plastic casing. Then I could squeeze a submersible pump down the hole.
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  #247  
Old 07-09-2019, 10:34 PM
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milomilo milomilo is offline
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
We've been sucking on this aquifer for 20 years so far with only a two stage filter to keep the cooties and coal dust out.
All has been good and the water tastes fine. So I will run with that.
Someday if the money tree blooms, I will have a well co. come in and pull the 3.5" casing and install a 6-8" plastic casing. Then I could squeeze a submersible pump down the hole.
How deep is your well? It would be a lot cheaper to re-case than a new well. What is a the price per foot for a new well in you area?
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  #248  
Old 07-09-2019, 10:42 PM
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Ironman Ironman is offline
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I have re-thought my heat tape plans. I had planned to run a internal heat tape carbon fiber line to heat it to the well house.
That was with the baby rental hoe. When I did it with a larger machine, we put the line down 8 ft. So the reality is, the end in the well house won't freeze, the pipe buried 8ft deep won't freeze, that leaves the line where it exits the ground and enters the house to be in danger. So I started looking for a heat line I could just install from the house end.
I found this one for $356, and I was not happy that the guy did not know his product and could not answer questions.

Then I found this outfit Heat-Line and ordered this one.
It is sold in 5 ft increments. I ordered a 15 ft heater.
It's self regulating, 50 watts for 15 ft
It is rigid enough that it will sit in the flow anchored at the discharge end, slides in easy and was slick to install. My pool noodles will help keep it warm.
I made up a 150 ft line in the Yukon, and sucked it through and 100ft of garden hose and it lay in the snow all winter, and I had running water from the next door neighbour's house well.
I suppose a guy could make his own setup like this one, if you had any self regulating line around. The gland fitting from a electrical supplier works on this and it would have cost less for sure. But this got me finished and running water happened.
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Gerry
You got freedom of speech, if you don't say too much.
Aaron Neville.

The virtue is always a cover for the sin. That's the key to understanding the modern left. Whatever they're accusing you of doing, they are doing themselves but more enthusiastically. And that's definitely the story of Justin Trudeau. Tucker Carlson
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  #249  
Old 07-09-2019, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
How deep is your well? It would be a lot cheaper to re-case than a new well. What is a the price per foot for a new well in you area?
How deep? God knows.
I'll guess 250 ft. The water is within 8ft of the top of the casing. I tied a 12" crescent onto a 100ft tape last time I was into the well, and the tape ran out and the wrench never hit bottom.
There is 44ft of suction line on the pump, and we have never been able to pull down the water level even in the drought years.

I am starting to wonder if, because of government grants to farmers, that many wells have been drilled past the aquifer. I hear of many deep wells and very low flow. If a driller is drilling for money instead of water, he stops when the grant runs out. My neighbor 2 km away as the crow flies, has a 1500ft well drilled down into rock and has 4gpm flow. I think the water is on top of the rock.

Buddy had a well drilled about 15km away, and installed a pump and pitless head. He said around 15 thou. No idea how far down they were.
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Gerry
You got freedom of speech, if you don't say too much.
Aaron Neville.

The virtue is always a cover for the sin. That's the key to understanding the modern left. Whatever they're accusing you of doing, they are doing themselves but more enthusiastically. And that's definitely the story of Justin Trudeau. Tucker Carlson
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  #250  
Old 07-10-2019, 12:55 AM
Samcord Samcord is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
The system is going to be....

Satellite outputs to the modem,

Modem CAT5 cable sends signal to the transceiver. (matched units)

Transceiver 1 feeds into optic line.

Transceiver 2 on other end feeds signal out to CAT5 port

CAT5 cable feeds it into home router.



Before you say it won't work...it already does. I just want it to be the best I can make it. That way, any latency or speed issues I can take up with the satellite provider, instead of with me.


Ah, you own both ends. I had pictured it differently. Is this a Hughes net service?
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