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  #11  
Old 01-13-2007, 12:02 AM
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Harvuskong Harvuskong is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1956tbird
Thanks for all the welcomes and thoughts.

I like the idea of installing the frost proof hydrant ahead of time, so it is ready to go.

Additionally, creating a wash area so I don't have to slop the whole floor sounds like a great idea. As pointed out the slop will interfere with jacks and other equipment.

Lastly "putting in multiple "just in case" sleeves and pipes in the cement" is right up my ally!

Thanks so much, I sure I will have more questions at a later date.
Hmmm, sounds like he is not going to go with the heated floor idea.

I had no idea years ago about heated shop floors. There has been many a time since then that a heated floor would have been great. Way too late now!!
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  #12  
Old 01-13-2007, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvuskong
Hmmm, sounds like he is not going to go with the heated floor idea.

I had no idea years ago about heated shop floors. There has been many a time since then that a heated floor would have been great. Way too late now!!

Well, I was going to push, since I still don't have mine hooked up. BUT, since you mentioned it..............I is not that hard to lay out and install, and the piping isn't that expensive.

I found a great resource for instructions (online manual) and around here we have a Menards (big box) that carries all the supplies needed to install a system.

TBIRD, how close to doing the pour are you???
Even if you installed the tubing and hooked it hooked it up much later, at least it is there and you can't say "I wish I woulda.....)
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  #13  
Old 01-13-2007, 02:33 PM
1956tbird 1956tbird is offline
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Default heated floor

I really really want to do the heated floor but considered about cost. Any idea how much it would cost for about 2208 sq feet of concrete? At a minimum I would want two zones. Should I have more then that? One would be for a wood shop (512 sq feet) and the other for automotive/storage.

Can you point me in the direction of the on-line manual?

What do you also suggest for the heat source? I was considering a corn boiler?
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  #14  
Old 01-13-2007, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1956tbird
I really really want to do the heated floor but considered about cost. Any idea how much it would cost for about 2208 sq feet of concrete? At a minimum I would want two zones. Should I have more then that? One would be for a wood shop (512 sq feet) and the other for automotive/storage.

Can you point me in the direction of the on-line manual?

What do you also suggest for the heat source? I was considering a corn boiler?
I'd have to do some digging to figure up some costs, but HERE is the site of a radiant heat supply company. It is pertty indepth. look for the radiant heat manual (90 page PDF file)

Basically, you want to keep the loops about 200-250 ft and spaced about 12-18" apart.
In my shop and garage I used 1/2" pex spaced at 18" . I just got 250 ft rolls and looped it around to use up a roll, that way the loops (or circuts) were never longer than 250 ft and there were no joints to worry about.

Corn heat sounds good (I am hired by farmers 95% of the time) but with corn between $3.00 - $4.00, I think it could get costly. I am going to use wood, because it is plentiful, but labot is an issue and cost too.
I am seeing a few corn burners around here though.

I'll have more info when I have more time. Heading out to the shop to get it warmed (and cleaned) up. The guys are coming over for a poker game tonight.
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  #15  
Old 01-13-2007, 09:56 PM
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Tbird, I have to agree with these guys, at least put the piping in now and I bet when you do get it up and running, you say,D*#n those guys were right. Heck I would scrimp on something else like light fixtures, that you can easily upgrade later but when it comes to something under the slab,this is your only chance.

By the way guys, in reference to the corn stove idea, I talked to a stove dealer a while back, and he told me corn puts out more BTUs per pound than pellets or wood. But availability and cost is probably the main factor now with prices where they are.

Anyway, good luck on the project and I hope this was of some help to you.
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  #16  
Old 01-13-2007, 10:52 PM
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Rodents are another issue with corn.
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  #17  
Old 01-14-2007, 12:43 PM
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Somebody get him a copy of Farm Show. They show guys making furnaces for those big round bales. I always thought they were used for hay, or maybe straw, but I went by a field the other day where he had baled the corn stalks. I counldn't help but wonder if it was fodder or fuel.
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2007, 01:08 PM
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Roughage and even Highway ditch round bales are bringing as much as $75 right now.
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  #19  
Old 01-14-2007, 10:13 PM
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Wow! I guess you think twice about burning that if you have a market.
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  #20  
Old 01-24-2007, 11:30 AM
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When forming my concrete, I recessed the grate over my drain 3/8" below the level of the floor. Then I cut a piece of 3/8" steel to cover the grate. The cover is flush with the floor--no problems with creeper, jacks, things falling in the drain, etc. The cover has two 1 1/4" inch holes for easy removal. I think that the cover also cuts down on the cold air coming in from the outside.

My 2 cents...
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