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Old 01-11-2007, 08:11 PM
1956tbird 1956tbird is offline
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I’m building a 40x60 and have a few questions on the concrete floor. The big one is the slop for drainage. I want the minimum slop I can get by, but still be able to wash cars in their once and while. Also how many and what size drains should I install?

Additionally, any thoughts on whether or not I should put down a vapor barrier. Finally, is their anything I should do to prepare for installing water to the barn at a later date?
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Old 01-11-2007, 08:14 PM
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Welcome to the zoo.

Our resident concrete man should be allong shortly.

DDA52 where are you......
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Old 01-11-2007, 08:48 PM
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Welcome to the home away from home.We look forward to hearing about and seeing the projects.Thaks for posting the location.
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Old 01-11-2007, 09:14 PM
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I understand that having a heated shop floor makes washing a car in cold weather a bit easier.

Also a heated floor will make working under a car a bit less of a hassel while the weather is very cold.
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Old 01-11-2007, 10:35 PM
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'56tbird, Welcome to SFT, the greatest site on the net. As Shade said earlier, watch for DDA52 to reply, he will set you on the right path for all concrete issues.

As far as the drains go , whatever you decide on, make sure you install one with removable grates so cleaning out debris/sediment will be easy. I have seen them run directly under the centerline of where the vehicle would sit, but to me this would hinder floor jacks,etc. I would prefer them across the door way just inside the bay door.The best I have seen are the trough type , about 4" wide and you can extend them as far as you want.

As far as the water goes, it depends on how elaborate you want it. The easiest way is to install a frostproof yard hydrant inside the barn floor. Just sleeve it with some plastic pipe say 12" or so and fill with gravel. Should you have to you can replace it easily. Also, these hydrants stop the water below ground and drain back out of the riser preventing freezing.

But the good thing about this site is you are probably going to get several more and better suggestions about these items. Good luck and lets see what these guys can come up with.
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Old 01-11-2007, 11:16 PM
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One inch of slope per 10ft of run is a common slope for drainage.

Do use the vapor barrier.........it will make a difference if you decide to paint or otherwise cover the floor later.

A different approach; Sloped floors are great for an area that by design will need frequent washdowns.............. But they are a pain for most everything else one would usually do in a shop...........

One can keep the floor flat and slope a small area around the drain........then use a squeegy to push the water to the drain..........
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Old 01-12-2007, 12:24 AM
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Question.....are you wanting to slpoe the WHOLE floor to drain? Or, are you wanting just a small area to be a wash bay? The will make a big difference as to how much drop.

If you want to make a small are a wash bay, say a single car garage sized are, you could get away with a 3/4" total slope to the drain in the middle of the area....move the drain to an end and that water has to travel farther. Then you would need to follow the 1"/10' rule.

If the whole floor needs to slope, the 1/10 rule applies. BUT, that would be a pain when it comes time to do anything else. I have a paint detail shop on the books to be done very soon. They will have a 15'x30' bay for a wash bay. It will be dropped from zero to 3/4" to the center each way. That is pretty common. On the 30' length, I believe we would be coming in 3 or 4 feet off the walls before beginning the drop...can't remember. It would be 2' minimum off the walls at least.

Does that help? ...and welcome to the sand box.
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Old 01-12-2007, 07:12 AM
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welcome t-bird, (whoo-hoo, another michigander........soon we'll be catching up to texas)

I'm following the same lines as IDIGDIRT, put some sort of sleeve in. If this will be unheated, you will definitely need a frost free hydrant. Why not install the hydrant now, and stub some waterline outside of the building? That way you don't have a problem.

I'm big on putting in multiple "just in case" sleeves and pipes in the cement.

As far as the drains go, I put a heavy duty cast iron right in front of my overhead doors and sloped the floor to it. I run over it with the forklift all the time. I didn't want one in the center to interfere with the creeper.

When you get ready to do it, let me know. I might be able to hook you up with some local suppliers of different types of grates/drains.

Oh, and Welcome to the sandbox.
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Old 01-12-2007, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtdigger
, (whoo-hoo, another michigander........soon we'll be catching up to texas)

.

Don't count on it. :evil:



Oh yes.....use the vapor barrier. We are regularly spec'd 6 mil poly, but have been spec'd 10 mil, but that isn't very often. They do make commercial grade varor barriers. They are two or three layer poly composites. Zero experience with them. I just know they are expensive. Might be a good thing if Radon is ever an issue. Dunno.
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2007, 08:42 PM
1956tbird 1956tbird is offline
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Thanks for all the welcomes and thoughts.

I like the idea of installing the frost proof hydrant ahead of time, so it is ready to go.

Additionally, creating a wash area so I don't have to slop the whole floor sounds like a great idea. As pointed out the slop will interfere with jacks and other equipment.

Lastly "putting in multiple "just in case" sleeves and pipes in the cement" is right up my ally!

Thanks so much, I sure I will have more questions at a later date.
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