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  #11  
Old 07-04-2023, 08:50 AM
willyfixit willyfixit is offline
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Other pictures. I made some forks and this fence spool that used the same brackets I made for the forks.
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  #12  
Old 07-04-2023, 01:18 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Wow Willi, 4n1, extendahoe; didja buy new with those options or get lucky?

I haven't moved any heavy buildings with mine, did relocate a Costco garage without having to disassemble tho - used my 2x6x8 brush bucket to lift the two inner "rafters", worked pretty good. 4 custom brackets and several tie straps... Steve
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  #13  
Old 07-04-2023, 04:57 PM
willyfixit willyfixit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BukitCase View Post
Wow Willi, 4n1, extendahoe; didja buy new with those options or get lucky?

I haven't moved any heavy buildings with mine, did relocate a Costco garage without having to disassemble tho - used my 2x6x8 brush bucket to lift the two inner "rafters", worked pretty good. 4 custom brackets and several tie straps... Steve
That's a nice setup you have there.

I bought the 580C new in 1975 for $23,500.00 set up that way.

A 4 in 1 on that backhoe is really handy. It can grab logs, piles of brush, and squeeze that last little pile of dirt instead of chasing it. Many uses if used correctly. I should say I have a 4 in 1 (or combination) bucket for a skid steer and it is basically useless compared to the one on the backhoe. (In my opinion).

Pictures are junking a 10 ton truck bed.
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Last edited by willyfixit; 07-05-2023 at 03:51 AM.
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2023, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willyfixit View Post
That's a nice setup you have there.

I bought the 580C new in 1975 for $23,500.00 set up that way.

A 4 in 1 on that backhoe is really handy. It can grab logs, piles of brush, and squeeze that last little pile of dirt instead of chasing it. Many uses if used correctly. I should say I have a 4 in 1 (or combination) bucket for a skid steer and it is basically useless compared to the one on the backhoe. (In my opinion).

Pictures are junking a 10 ton truck bed.

Those pictures are making me drool for a 4in1 bucket! It looks like it could really be handy.

Forman at work was looking at this hoe last year, but passed on it because he really wanted a 4WD model. So far, using the older CK model, I have been pleased how well it gets around. I’m sure once I get the 580c rim problem fixed and cylinders rebuilt, it will probably be my machine of choice. It is nicer having a bigger wheeled tractor around the yard again.

So question for the guys, what is your opinion on loading the rear tires? I know this was asked in a different post years ago, but figured I would reopen the topic.

My older model has just air tires, and the 580C has loaded tires. One with bad rim damage, which renders it useless now. I probably should check other rim for damage.

But deciding wether I should just empty both rims and run with that. What are the advantages of having loaded tires, if I always leave the backhoe attached anyways. Will it still help to get around?


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  #15  
Old 07-05-2023, 11:24 AM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Brian, read point #4 on post #3 - if I expand that it'll just be more swear words...

As for traction, the hoe part of a 580 weighs around 3 TONS - if it weighed any more you would "pop a wheelie" every time you tried to drive forward (not kidding, BTDT)

If you're lucky and the rears were tubed BEFORE they put in the CCC (CalciumChlorideCrap ) you MIGHT salvage the other rim.

I recently priced a used rim and new tire for one of my 40 horse older tractors, the scrap yard wanted $300 for a wheel they didn't have, a new R4 rear tire was a burger and fries short of $1k.

Not that you can't tell what I think yet, one other irritation (at 78, I get irritated by more things than I used to) - wanna check tire pressure? first, move the tractor til ONE of the back tires valve stem is at the TOP, HOPE the CCC hasn't destroyed the valve core, if not check/fix the pressure -

Then MOVE the tractor til the OTHER rear wheel's valve stem is at the TOP - repeat.

The alternative to the above is likely getting a face full of CCC, UNLESS whoever loaded the tires STOPPED when they were just over HALF FULL - IME, a coin toss. If you get lucky, you get more latitude for valve position.

Sorry about the rant; I just know that I woulda been ECSTATIC if ANOTHER grouchy old bastard had saved ME from even ONE of my dumb mistakes... Steve
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  #16  
Old 07-05-2023, 02:41 PM
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There's other options like beet juice, antifreeze, and windshield washer fluid. Looks like if you have the 14.9-24 tires it adds anywhere from 400-500lbs per tire depending on fluid type, which seems insignificant in relation to the weight of the rest of the machine. My thought was it'd keep the rear of the tractor a little more planted when operating the backhoe.
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  #17  
Old 07-05-2023, 05:10 PM
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I have heard of people putting Beet juice in the tires.

I think my little Kubota has loaded tires too. I remember dealing with that a couple years ago. And it does not take much in the front loader to start raising the back wheels up.

But I was thinking with the back hoe, that should provide enough counter weight for the front end loader.

And I do not really see me taking the back hoe off, unless I do keep both, and end up getting other attachments, like 3 pt hitch stuff.

I guess I like pairs. I have two front end loaders. One with 6’ long forks. I do have a bucket for it, but have only had that on one time in 30 years.

The other loader ran when I got it from my FIL, but it blew a head gasket about 8 years ago, and I’m still waiting to make the time to repair it.

I also have two skid loaders. After it threw a rod out the side of the block, as I was unloading it on my other property, I drove it back into the trailer, and it never started again. I have a replacement engine, and got as far as starting to change parts over, then stopped progressing on that project. So I bought a second skid loader when a deal came up, and I had the cash one time.

So this is first time I got two machines at the same time. Even more special, they are the same make, except for different year models.


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  #18  
Old 07-05-2023, 05:42 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Yeah, I'm aware of other tire "loaders", IIRC most are a bit lighter than the CCC but I'm a "once bitten twice shy" kinda guy - when something pisses me off the first time it "goes on my radar" - second time the implements of destruction/construction come out and I quit when I'm happy(er) -

With my other 2 (40 hp) tractors, if using a "ground engaging" implement and I break traction I stomp on the little pedal by my right heel - if that doesn't help I'll decrease engagement (raise the 3ph)

With the exception of the crappy wheel problem coming up I'm fairly happy - I have 4 major implements and can have any 2 mounted for immediate use (plus the hoe/loader) - 7' Gannon with hydraulic rippers, 7' soil pulverizer, 6' tiller and 6' flail mower - the tiller and mower were bought new, the other two used. I added hydraulic toplink to both tractors and hydraulic tilt to one, highly recommended mod.

I'm into the whole lot just under $16k and NO payments. Also no DEF to mess with and no assholes telling me I can't work on my own tractor ... Steve
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  #19  
Old 07-05-2023, 05:57 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Brian, I'm 98% sure the 580C hoe is still pin mounted with a chassis mounted 4 point cradle like my 580B - if so there are 3PH add-ons IF you can find one, unhook hydraulics (AFTER setting the hoe on the ground) and add the 3PH -

I have one, most of its hydraulics (4 circuit) need TLC - it got to be a PITA to swap out, plus there's no PTO so drag stuff ONLY -

IIRC, there were parts made to add a PTO BUT you couldn't put the hoe back on without draining the rear end and swapping the rear cover for the NON PTO rear cover (the hoe would hit the PTO shaft)

That's what finally made me give up and buy an old tractor - then I found out THAT one's lowest gear was still too fast for a tiller, so I bought a SECOND one (Allis Chalmers 160) THAT one has the "slow low" option, runs 0.7 mph at full PTO speed, makes it also useful to use the box blade in slo-mo. With the top-n-tilt added, it can be pretty "surgical" when needed. I used a bit longer than recommended cylinders, lets me have the box blade up to a foot higher or lower to either side.

So now the "fast" one usually gets either the flail or the spray rig, sometimes the "soil pulverizer", which works kinda like a (more aggressive) landscape rake... Steve

Last edited by BukitCase; 07-05-2023 at 06:10 PM.
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  #20  
Old 07-06-2023, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
I have heard of people putting Beet juice in the tires.
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The advantage of Beet Juice is it has the same S.G per gallon as CCC. It is non-toxic to plants and animals. It also will not rust steel. It is a byproduct of making beet sugar.
I've had a leaking calcium chloride filled tire kill a full grown tree. Sooner or later it will always rot through a rim.
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