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  #11  
Old 03-05-2018, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Yes, and they will be sold as 12mm, but known as 4x8 sheets size wise.
I found it interesting that when I want to build anything in Mexico, they sort of function the same way in the hodge-podge of inches and mm.

Food stores are all metric by weight.
IKEA of course is metric all the way, and they supply you with a tape measure when shopping so you can figure it out.
What do you build in Mexico? Do you have land down there too?
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  #12  
Old 03-06-2018, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by alchemist View Post
What do you build in Mexico? Do you have land down there too?
No, a condo. We have had tables, desks built. Recently built a base for an electric oven. Replaced a H.W. heater this year, you need to know the size when you go to the store, there are many variables.

And when you are a DIY sort, you keep an eyeball out on what is around and how they make it.
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  #13  
Old 03-07-2018, 02:41 PM
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What the hell is this "Imperial" BS you speak of!?!
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  #14  
Old 03-07-2018, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
I’m looking at the possibility of a second garage at the house in Alberta. It would serve two main functions there, it would become the primary ‘shop’ space,
This will require a building thread, and many pictures....it's mandatory.
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  #15  
Old 03-07-2018, 09:59 PM
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If/when we decide to do it, there will definitely be a thread!!

Actually Gerry, maybe you can fill me in on something. I’m thinking of going with an engineered pad, then I’m debating about a 2’ high concrete knee wall, then 8’ framing (or whatever height I can go to). I’m looking at different ways of creating a thermal barrier for the concrete pad and knee wall. Any thing that you’ve seen/done that would work well?


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  #16  
Old 03-08-2018, 10:22 AM
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I made a 2' knee wall for my shop and used 12' walls. In part because the shop is sitting on an inclined surface. Back wall only sticks up a few inches above the ground. The best part is the inside walls have that 2' of concrete for protection from crap up against the walls.
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  #17  
Old 03-08-2018, 10:32 AM
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I’m thinking of going engineered slab (thicker at the perimeter, then tapers into the middle) and then a 2’ high knee wall. Since it will be heated, I want a thermal barrier under the slab and around the outside edge. Just trying to figure out if there’s a way I can also pour the knee wall as part of it, or do it as a separate/second pour.

I’ve also emailed a couple ICF places to see if they have anything that would let me form/pour it that way.


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  #18  
Old 03-08-2018, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
I’m thinking of going engineered slab (thicker at the perimeter, then tapers into the middle) and then a 2’ high knee wall. Since it will be heated, I want a thermal barrier under the slab and around the outside edge. Just trying to figure out if there’s a way I can also pour the knee wall as part of it, or do it as a separate/second pour.

I’ve also emailed a couple ICF places to see if they have anything that would let me form/pour it that way.


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My wood shop has a 1' deep footer and monolithic slab all poured in one shot. Expect the knee wall would be a separate pour. Used fiber in the concrete and rebar around the perimeter. Power troweled floor, still no cracks after 12 years and very smooth.
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  #19  
Old 03-08-2018, 11:11 AM
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Not from experience but read . On a poured slab go down on edge below frost line then out to the same width . This is supposed to stop it from freezing slab . Dr. Dean had a thread on pouring the floor in side his shop and used I thought floor heat . Maybe he will check in on how it worked .
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2018, 12:36 PM
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When I built my shop, I elected to put a standard 8' wall on top of an 18" pony wall. The pony wall and footing were poured separately from the 5 1/2" floor. IIRC, the floor slab had rebar on 18" centres, 3% air entrainment, and fibre mesh in the mix.

I did not go with in slab heat but chose infrared. My experience with inslab heat is that, while comfortable most of the time, it is very slow to respond to ambient temperatures or inside temperature changes. Infrared is quick and comfy. I can turn down the temp when I am out of the shop and crank it up when I am out there and the whole shop gets to a comfortable working temp in a half hour from the 50 f I leave it at.

It is sometimes months between shop sessions for me. Keeping everything thawed, but at a lower temp saves on heating cost.

If I had to build another, I would do the same, but I would go with 2x6 walls ( may be a requirement now?) and possibly spray foam insulation ( more research required, spray foam has had some issues lately).
I would also look at garage package. Some vendors put together some fairly good deals using standard dimensions that can give more building for your material dollar.
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