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  #11  
Old 01-30-2020, 09:47 AM
JBFab JBFab is offline
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6010 is great, but as previously mentioned a number of inverter welders don't play well with it - it's a crapshoot.

Lincoln Murex 6011c is a good 6011 rod, although I've never had trouble with Hobart 6011 either.
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  #12  
Old 01-30-2020, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
I dunno, but I cannot keep from trapping slag with them.

6011 for dirty (and the weld will be rough looking but hold) loud and splattery.

7014 for dead quiet, beautiful looking welds, on clean steel.
But trapping slag is pretty hard to doo.


Can’t remember for sure, but isn’t 7014 a low penetrating rod, like 7018? Main difference is 7014 is not a low hydrogen rod, so it is not as finicky about keeping it dry.

Correct my memory if wrong.

I remember boss getting me some 7014 to use, and I could not get it to run for shit. Went back to the 7018. But, I probably did not take the time to find the sweet spot and give it a chance either.


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  #13  
Old 01-30-2020, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
Can’t remember for sure, but isn’t 7014 a low penetrating rod, like 7018? Main difference is 7014 is not a low hydrogen rod, so it is not as finicky about keeping it dry.

Correct my memory if wrong.

I remember boss getting me some 7014 to use, and I could not get it to run for shit. Went back to the 7018. But, I probably did not take the time to find the sweet spot and give it a chance either.


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7014 I usually run hot, and the puddle is running way back of the arc,
slow cooling, very smooth weld.
No need to break off the end when restriking, just get it within 6" and it will light itself...

7018 can't whip out, and the puddle is a bit smaller, little fingernail solidifying marks. As you know, break the end off if restriking.
Still much smoother than 6011.
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  #14  
Old 01-30-2020, 10:47 AM
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If you want to pay shipping I will send you a 50# can.
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  #15  
Old 01-30-2020, 02:17 PM
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That's a great offer, but I don't know what I would do with 50lbs at the moment and have no idea what the welder will run outside of the excalibur 7018.

I used to weld absolutely everything with a stick welder and now I am spoiled and run wire for everything unless its too windy or its something weird.

I think the last job I had to use stick for was welding a gear to a shaft inside the gear box of a hay tedder for an emergency repair. The key failed and they wanted the thing back in the field ASAP so rather than taking 4 rotors off and pulling the shaft out of the center section of the machine I bent a welding rod, preheated the gear and welded it to the shaft reaching through the inspection hole. I probably burned 2lbs of rod last summer.

I will probably try to get some 1lb packs off amazon to experiment with.
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  #16  
Old 01-30-2020, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
Hobart rods....ugh right there.
They don't run even.

Try Platypus20's favorite airco 6011 (the white rod)
The AIRCO is now Lincoln Murex 6011c. Lincoln probably made them for AIRCO back when. Too bad they don't have smaller boxes of them.
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  #17  
Old 01-30-2020, 03:07 PM
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The AIRCO is now Lincoln Murex 6011c. Lincoln probably made them for AIRCO back when. Too bad they don't have smaller boxes of them.
My 50lb box still say airco, tnx for the update.

As far as lesser qty's, just follow the platypus around, probably drops several per 100' of walking...along with some feathers.
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  #18  
Old 01-30-2020, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
7014 I usually run hot, and the puddle is running way back of the arc,

slow cooling, very smooth weld.

No need to break off the end when restriking, just get it within 6" and it will light itself...



7018 can't whip out, and the puddle is a bit smaller, little fingernail solidifying marks. As you know, break the end off if restriking.

Still much smoother than 6011.


A little trick I heard for restarting 7018. After you whip out of the puddle, give the stinger a quick flick down and the flux that usually melts over the end of the rod will flick off. I would only suggest this if the area around you is semi safe for hot sparks though.

I would not do this in most of the in construction houses I used to weld in, on wood floors as we are building up.


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  #19  
Old 01-30-2020, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
A little trick I heard for restarting 7018. After you whip out of the puddle, give the stinger a quick flick down and the flux that usually melts over the end of the rod will flick off. I would only suggest this if the area around you is semi safe for hot sparks though.

I would not do this in most of the in construction houses I used to weld in, on wood floors as we are building up.
You should have used a Woodwelder.
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  #20  
Old 01-30-2020, 04:59 PM
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You should have used a Woodwelder.





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