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  #11  
Old 12-30-2020, 07:22 PM
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I must admit that I have resorted to insert tooling for external turning with the exception of threading. There are just too many possibilities and the probability of getting the wrong profile for a given thread is just too high.

One other factor that figures into tooling selection is lead time. I can grind a Tool and possibly make a bar far quicker that I can get to and from any place that might sell tooling, if they even have what I need in stock. The fastest internet order service I've ever had from a tooling supplier is 4 days. Even then, it takes minimum half hour to pick up from wherever it ends up as no one will deliver to my door.

The low initial cost and replacement cost means I can modify cutting profiles and even tooling by investing the time to walk 20' and do the grinding without being concerned with cost.

My 0.02$ CDN. YMMV.
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  #12  
Old 12-31-2020, 06:48 AM
ShawnR ShawnR is offline
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I am with camdigger. For me, I am such an amateur and my projects so simple, it does not seem worth the effort to sort through the huge number of options, buy the holders, wait for shipping, and then hope I have the right ones. Having said that, because I do not get into very complicated projects, the basics would be good. Several years ago, I picked up a large selection of carbide cemented bits in various sizes (1/4" to over 1") and try to use them. I can grind what I need if I am stepping away from just turning a diameter down, which is the majority of my work... and my sharpening skills need to be practiced to appreciate the effects of the profiles. Some larger ones, I milled them down to where the cutting edge is centered. Shimming bits is the most frustrating part of my set up. I have a quick change post but not enough holders to make it more efficient than my turret holder. I think I treat myself as an apprentice and see all projects as a learning experience.

Here are some photos of the project that prompted this thread. I had an old Incline motor from a treadmill. I wanted to make an electric canoe hoist for the cottage. The gearbox is designed for a vertical load, not a horizontal one and I had the bearings so figured it would be a good experience to mill the bearing pockets (recesses?) I have collected tools over the years but not used some. One such tool is the telescoping tool set. I finally had an excuse to use it. But with all of my efforts towards precision,....I still managed to make a snug slip fit (sorta) versus a press fit....(bang head on wall..) The shimming for alignment was intentional from the beginning. I figured no use trying to make it perfect because I was going to end up shimming anyways so just designed it to be shimmed anyways. (Know my limitations...

Thanks again,

Shawno
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  #13  
Old 12-31-2020, 09:38 AM
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If you have a quick change tool post, but not enough holders, what is keeping you from just changing the bits in the holders as you need?

I don’t think you need a holder for every cutting tool, although that is a nice luxury. It is so much easier to adjust the height on the QCTP.

As far as insert tooling, I am switching over to it on my home lathe, with cheap import stuff. I have yet to try it out to see how my little lathe will handle it, but at work, I am not afraid () to put a new edge on old inserts. Or modify one as needed. Biggest challenge is the support offered by the insert holder bar. You could make a project of making new bars that would take “resharpened” inserts.

As a home hobbyist, part of the projects is learning new skills that I can put to use in new projects. Hone your skills on practice projects, that if work, make your future other projects easier to do.



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  #14  
Old 12-31-2020, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
.....
As far as insert tooling, I am switching over to it on my home lathe, with cheap import stuff.


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This is the road I started down. Now, a decade later, I have a plethora of shit that doesn't perform well, a few that do, but take unobtainium inserts, and a few reliables that see regular use.

As an example, I have no less than 5 triangular insert types, all 1/2 on a side none of which will fit any other holder. 4 holder styles for the above holders 1 of which performs reliably for me.

I also have a rectangular holder that does great, but the 3/8" positive inserts are hard to find. The only ones I have are high dollar name brand milling inserts that run 5-8$ per insert.

I have a parting tool holder that performed well as long as it was sharp, but shattered the insert when used one too many times. Inserts are not available, so if I want insert tooling for parting, I have to start the trial and error process of finding a setup that will work for me starting at $40/trial (holder + insert) and going up from there.: I tend to saw work off in my clapped out 4x6 bandsaw and face afterward. That approach takes some preplanning and wastes some stock, but it works.
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  #15  
Old 01-18-2021, 01:50 PM
ShawnR ShawnR is offline
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I finished up the boring bar holder. I think it will make the use of them much easier. I found, in doing my measurements, that to get the cutters on vertical center, I had to mount the tool as high as possible in my tool holder. So rather than putting a slot in the side, I used the top as access to the tool post screws. I also had to adjust the thickness of the back of the holder to get the screws to line up with the center of the bar. Interesting little project for me.

Thanks for the input.

Shawn
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  #16  
Old 01-18-2021, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
I'll throw my vote in for insert stuff. The biggest cost is the holder as they invented way too many types.
A box of 10 inserts will last me years, unless i do something stupid. They can take interrupted cuts, cutting weld hardened steel, machine high speed steel, and do it with a 2x overspeed. I never worry about rpm.
I just got almost finished with a box from years ago, and I spent 10 bucks from Banggood for replacements. We shall see how they last.
Jerry, what style, size and brand insert do you use? Mostly for turning or also for boring? Can you turn both directions or mainly toward the headstock?
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Last edited by arizonian; 01-18-2021 at 02:27 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2021, 06:49 PM
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I use mostly CCMT 21.51 and CCMT 32.51 inserts, in SCLCR boring bars
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  #18  
Old 01-20-2021, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arizonian View Post
Jerry, what style, size and brand insert do you use? Mostly for turning or also for boring? Can you turn both directions or mainly toward the headstock?
I forgot the inserts for my boring bars, but I use TNMG 332 on my QC blocks. I use the turning and Facing holder #16 CXA blocks which allow chamfering as well for most of my work. I can turn in both directions with them.
I have no brand to die for, mostly cheap stuff. Sowa and Seco are brands I use and Iskar, I am trying to rid myself of Sandvik stuff, very pricey.

Edit
I was using the heavy bar today and checked, the inserts are Mitsubishi CCMT 32.52 for up to 850 sfm. I have a lot of not very shiny inserts with no name brand and cheap, seem to be fine
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Last edited by Ironman; 01-24-2021 at 05:05 PM.
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  #19  
Old 02-11-2021, 01:17 PM
ShawnR ShawnR is offline
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Default A simple suggestions leads to more projects

Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
If you have a quick change tool post, but not enough holders, what is keeping you from just changing the bits in the holders as you need?

I don’t think you need a holder for every cutting tool, although that is a nice luxury. It is so much easier to adjust the height on the QCTP.

As a home hobbyist, part of the projects is learning new skills that I can put to use in new projects. Hone your skills on practice projects, that if work, make your future other projects easier to do.

Sent from my iPhone using ShopFloorTalk
Shortly after you posted this, I swapped in my QCTP. Being able to more easily adjust centre line makes sense. Despite it being just a cheapy, it seems to work ok. Maybe a little small for my machine but I have spaced it up. I have grown to really like it! Adjustments are much easier and honestly, probably the one bit does 70% of my lathe work so I am not swapping out that often. It came with one larger holder (I use for parting tool and new threading tool) and a smaller one that takes half inch tool bits. But, since I am now liking it, I decided to tackle some more holders. They are almost done but thought I would send a Thank you for getting me inspired.

And they have been a great project to practice my skills on as well! It seems I am finding many projects lately. Almost every one leads to another tool required though. Me and Amazon are on a first name basis as of late.

I wanted to post while I was thinking of it.

Thanks
Cheers,
Shawno
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  #20  
Old 02-11-2021, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShawnR View Post
Shortly after you posted this, I swapped in my QCTP. Being able to more easily adjust centre line makes sense. Despite it being just a cheapy, it seems to work ok. Maybe a little small for my machine but I have spaced it up. I have grown to really like it! Adjustments are much easier and honestly, probably the one bit does 70% of my lathe work so I am not swapping out that often. It came with one larger holder (I use for parting tool and new threading tool) and a smaller one that takes half inch tool bits. But, since I am now liking it, I decided to tackle some more holders. They are almost done but thought I would send a Thank you for getting me inspired.



And they have been a great project to practice my skills on as well! It seems I am finding many projects lately. Almost every one leads to another tool required though. Me and Amazon are on a first name basis as of late.



I wanted to post while I was thinking of it.



Thanks

Cheers,

Shawno


Glad it is working out for you. I have been using a QCTP at new job for about 3 1/4 years now. Wish I had more holders too, but am getting bye with about 15 or so. Since I have the only lathe with a DRO, I have the tool blocks numbered, and try not to change most of them. The DRO can keep all the different tools dialed in to each other. So if I switch one out, the dro will show the next tool to be in general area to work, at least +- .010” generally. But I get burned when I start getting comfortable and don’t double check dimensions. If in doubt, take time to measure. Don’t get in a big hurry.


Have you learned the trick of using a 6” ruler to set the height of your cutting tools? Place the ruler vertical against the workpiece and very lightly move the toolbit to pinch the rule against the workpiece. If the rule is straight up and down, toolbit is on center. If top is leaning in on top, then bit is too high. Leaning towards you, bit too low.




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