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  #11  
Old 01-03-2021, 02:00 PM
racer-john racer-john is offline
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Default Is there a fix? Al panel distortion

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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Seems like a shop made English Wheel is on the to do list???
You wont regret it, just build it right.
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2021, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by racer-john View Post
You wont regret it, just build it right.
My concern with building one is not the frame, but all the top rollers and anvils.

Heavy fabrication I can do.
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  #13  
Old 01-03-2021, 05:42 PM
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My concern with building a lot of wonderful specialty tools is how much shop space I need to build to house these largely unused tools.
For one off's I can generally figure a work around or take the project to a place that has the tools needed.
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  #14  
Old 01-03-2021, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
My concern with building a lot of wonderful specialty tools is how much shop space I need to build to house these largely unused tools.
For one off's I can generally figure a work around or take the project to a place that has the tools needed.
Quite true. That is, in fact the reason I started down this path without first building or buying every tool I could conceivably need. Can't swing a cat in either my shop or home office now. Where will I put an English wheel?
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2021, 09:19 AM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Originally Posted by camdigger View Post
My concern with building one is not the frame, but all the top rollers and anvils.

Heavy fabrication I can do.
I’m sure I have seen kits available that include these items.
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2021, 12:43 AM
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Scrapper Greg Scrapper Greg is offline
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After doing some parallel research I have learned a few things that may be of interest. I think a shrinker/stretcher wont be able to effect the area that is required. An English wheel would. If you don't want to try an English wheel for the expense of 1 job, try a flat faced body hammer and and a shallow faced dolly. I would try a diamond pattern in the middle of the seat bottom. Work in straight lines front to back. And start light. Just my 0.02
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  #17  
Old 02-12-2021, 01:37 AM
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Cam, I was doing some more thinking about this. Instead of doing the hammer and dolly freehand, which could make some marks. set them up like a tinsmiths swage. Like this https://www.collectorsweekly.com/sto...-swage-and-cre And I did a bit of rethink on the pattern. work the area in a triangle. Point in the center in the back and widest point in the front. But keep the front edge of the triangle away from the front edge of the seat.
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  #18  
Old 02-12-2021, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Scrapper Greg View Post
After doing some parallel research I have learned a few things that may be of interest. I think a shrinker/stretcher wont be able to effect the area that is required. An English wheel would. If you don't want to try an English wheel for the expense of 1 job, try a flat faced body hammer and and a shallow faced dolly. I would try a diamond pattern in the middle of the seat bottom. Work in straight lines front to back. And start light. Just my 0.02
Thanks Greg. No a common Shrinker/stretcher will not reach far enough back into the panel to either pretreat or fix the issue after the fact. A deep throat Shrinker might if it reaches all the way back between the beads.

The hammer and dolly would only be a preventative measure and will not cure the problem now unless the excess material can be trapped in a tuck somehow and beaten flat to essentially upset the material to make the thickness deeper and the length and breadth shorter.

An interesting possibility is a set of thumbnail shrinking dies in an air hammer setup. The dies would be a trick to set up, but might be possible using some fab tricks, along with some machining. Still pondering this at the moment.
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  #19  
Old 02-14-2021, 05:58 PM
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Can't you just peen the upper edge using a ball peen and a small anvil?
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  #20  
Old 02-14-2021, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Can't you just peen the upper edge using a ball peen and a small anvil?
The issue is perceived to be that the material from the edge to the beads is actually longer than the area containing the beads. Peening the edge would make that material thinner and even longer, exaggerating the existing issue rather than curing it.

In blacksmithing terms, we need to upset that material rather than drawing it out.
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