One more project to work on

[cutter]

Good show, good progress.
I'd loan you Mildred's spare wheel but somebody already screwed it up.

[MarkBall2]

Welp, I was bored sitting inside today and after thinking about how to make the adapters, I figured I needed to try. I also needed to make the milling attachment do what I want it to do, not what it wants to do!

So, I did some layout on the handwheel adapters. Basically what I'm trying to do is make an adapter to engage the "teeth" of the dial, then I'll get a handwheel & turn it down a bit, bore the adapter for a press fit & press the two together. Sounds reasonable, so off to the races I went!

Here are some pictures of the construction of the adapters....

1. The "toothed" dial I need to engage & a bored blank of 1.75" steel,
2. Beginning the layout with Blue Marks A Lot
3. Slid blank & dial onto shaft for marking. I used my scribe to "scratch" the location of the teeth.
4. Chicken Scratches
5. A bit more accurate layout. Now to go to the lathe & mill "to the line". The parts to be cut out is the "scratched up" areas.

[MarkBall2]

More pictures........

BTW, Thank you Cutter, I really do use this milling attachment you sent me. If I remember correctly, Old Man had it & prior to that Jack had it. Thanks to all the people that have owned the milling attachment. I use the daylights out of it.

1 & 2 First cut on the lathe
3 A bit less than half way done cutting teeth
4 Finished product - engaged
5 Disengaged

[MarkBall2]

Once I had figured out how to do one, the other two weren't too bad to do. Just level the line, verify either the top or the bottom of the endmill "rode the line", then cut. I re-aligned each mark for left & right side of the individual tooth, so it took most of the day.

1 Front dial
2 Right dial

[MarkBall2]

Got to checking & the quill fine feed needs a hand wheel, but I really didn't want to use a 4" wheel. A 4" wheel would be right at the front mounted threaded rod of the downfeed.

I had previously made a hand wheel for my bandsaw, so I figured I would make one for this.

Using a 3" piece of round bar I had first attempted to use for my ball turner, I cut it in half, then turned the back side taper. Once that was done, I cut the inside taper, drilled & tapped two 1/4" holes for set screws.

I think it turned out ok. Now to put a handle on it, but I'll do that later. It was getting dark, I had been in the shop since 7, so time to shut things down.

1 Cutting the 3" steel round bar to length
2 Cutting the back of hand wheel taper,
3 A better shot. I did use a left hand turning tool upside down on the back side of the chuck to make the taper. Using the compound, I was able to get it tapered.
4 Installed front view
5 Installed side view. The set screws are 180* apart & grips the shaft pretty good.

[MarkBall2]

I'm not sure if I have enough 4" aluminum round bar left to make 3 more hand wheels. I think I have at least enough to make 2, one for the front, one for the right side.

This would be less expensive than buying hand wheels & having to modify them.

Have to ponder this for a few days.

[Dave Lee]

Very nice, Mark. It's spooky, looking at your mill. I swear mine and your's came out of the same factory. If you look at others on the web, they're just not the same. Lot's of subtle differences.

If you get a boring head some day, you'll probably, want a revolving handle on your spindle fine feed wheel. It allows you to make continuous revolutions instead of having to reposition your hand all the time. Just my 2 cents.


Dave

[cutter]

Originally Posted by MarkBall2

BTW, Thank you Cutter, I really do use this milling attachment you sent me. If I remember correctly, Old Man had it & prior to that Jack had it. Thanks to all the people that have owned the milling attachment. I use the daylights out of it.

Not quite, Mark.
Old Man sent me the milling attachment that came with Ringo and Jack sent me the one you have.
I made both of them more or less work just for the fun of it but on little Charlie, they looked like a grizzly bear on a minibike. Ringo's especially was too big and too heavy.
Jerry wanted me to keep it anyway but I wanted it to stay with the lathe so I sent it back so that whoever wound up with the old Starr lathe would have it.

Jack didn't want his back so I hung onto it until you turned up your lathe, and here you are.
Fact is, I think Jack and I both feel fortunate that it wound up in your hands. You've made really good use of it and we both appreciate that. So there.

By the way, that thing you're calling a "dial" is called a "clutch" in Mildred's manual.
I had to make the same sort of thing for the sliding dog clutch for Mildred's table drive but you did a better job with your milling attachment than I did with my mill.

Great job on the handwheel too.

[MarkBall2]

David Lee, I have plans to put a revolving handle on the fine feed wheel. I just didn't get to it yesterday. I have a piece of 3/8" drill rod I'm planning on turning down to 5/16" & thread, then round the end. Probably will only be about 2" long. Might do a fancy taper on it, if I can remember how I did it on the bandsaw handle.

Cutter, your "clutch" looks a bit different, as the dial part looks like it spins on the shaft. The dial & clutch portion of mine are made of steel & are all one piece. Might be a different design?

Thanks for the comments, I'm getting used to "new terminology"........... again.

[1-800miner]

Mark
Don't worry about the second hand wheel ,I garantee that you will replace it with a power feed very soon.
Go for an eight inch rotary table. I hardly touch the six since I got an eight.
Lots more clamping room.
You know that when that mill is up and running you are will have to find another deserving character for the milling attachment. It will collect spider webs once the enco mill is spitting out swarf.
Now you need to watch for garage sales and swap meets.Root around the rusty tool boxes for end mills.Hold them up to the seller and tell them you will give a nickel a piece for all these broken drill bits. It's suprising how often it works.