CandCNC Bladerunner with G214V and Scanything Camera

[JidoukaSS]

It's been awhile. This will be more of an exposition dump rather than a build log.

Problem: I could not get the Scanything camera to work with the table due to vibration in the motors so I decided to upgrade
the G251 drives to the higher resolution G214V drives. Servo motors would be best but I wanted to stick with the steppers. If I was going
to upgrade the drivers, then I was going to make a new enclosure and bring all the controls and computer inside to keep them clean and get all the cables off of the floor. I didn't like the OEM box since it was hard to keep clean and service or test if needed, so all of the boards were going to be separately mounted. As part of the move, the 48vdc power supply was increased with a 1000W toroid and a second rectifier unit, in case I want more power in the future.

The biggest hurdle was the Step and Direction signals. The G214v needs an open collector output to sink its inputs to ground. I contacted CandCNC because I seen they have an MTA card which has sink and source outputs but they told be they don't deal with board level builds, even though it's all their boards, and this was from the retrofit department. They only offered me the option of buying their larger system with G203 which has the same 2000/rev drive resolution. I get it, that's the Corpo line but...annoyed, I said screw them I'll figure it out on my own and if I get it working, I'll share everything I know. I can't say that it is up to an electronics engineer's spec, but it works and the proof is in the prints. Keep in mind that I'm just a moron with some tools and a Digikey account. At any rate it's a good start.

Here's what has been changed on the OEM Star Lab Plasma Table with CandCNC Bladerunner/G251-4 drivers.
-Motor cables changed from low strand 18Awg to high strand 16Awg along with CPC plugs.
-Sensor cables replaced with standard 4 wire for future inductive proximity sensors.
-Individually mounted circuit boards for ease of service in an isolated enclosure.
-Added stereo to enclosure
-Made an isolated monitor stand
-Retrofitted G251-4 drivers to G214v driver with required interface solution using OEM driver board.
-Added Current and Voltage meters for monitoring axis motors(not yet completed)

The parts and prints are in the PDF. It is not yet completed but there's enough to get started if it's something your interested in. The camera now works but still needs a little tuning; results of first test at 5000/Rev test in PDF.

I'm sick of everyone being so damn cagey with info so everything I used is listed in document. I'll see about getting an explanation video out soon. Cheers.

[JidoukaSS]

More Pictures.

[JidoukaSS]

More Enclosure Pictures.

[Scotts]

Moron with a digikey account.

That is hucking filiarious.

Seriously nice build there.

Scott


Sent from my iPhone using ShopFloorTalk mobile app

[GWIZ]

Originally Posted by JidoukaSS

I'm sick of everyone being so damn cagey with info so everything I used is listed in document. I'll see about getting an explanation video out soon. Cheers.

Good to see you back, good write up in the pdf
It is a shame that more people don't understand the importance of having a good schematic or setup information. it takes a lot of time to draw one.

just a note on MOSFET's
not that I know what i am doing.
Had a problem with mosfet's not turning off, The gate does not always discharge once the gate voltage is removed so as a habit I have been adding a 1M resistor across the G-S in my projects.

[JidoukaSS]

Yep, prints are the worst and most overlooked part of the job. There are many I haven't documented and 2yrs on I'll have to scratch my head. It's better to document and delete from the "ol' internal hard drive" then try to remember.


A far as the mosfets, I should only need a high value pull down if the gate signal is being sent from something like an I/O pin or switch where voltage is removed. The way I have it, the pull-up "switch" is always on, until the OPTO pulls low. So, it should be actively driven high or low; no floating. At least I think.

[JidoukaSS]

I did a little more testing today and determined that the same vibration in the camera that translates into the traced part, happens when changing direction. On the hexagon test, it's smooth on the straight line but slows and adds a slight ripple on transition going the other direction.



Making adjustments to Feed and Servo gain do make quite a bit of difference. I'm realistic as to what I can expect and if it can save CAD time on making replacement parts that have many arcs/angles, then I'll be happy; 90% traced, 10% cleanup would be awesome. Granted most parts are welded on so slight error isn't too much of issue.