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  #31  
Old 03-16-2018, 06:50 PM
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Therein lies my issue. I want the length so it is possible to park a full size truck in it, and ideally walk around it. I don’t know that I can go any wider than the 20x30 I’m looking at.

I could go with a large single door (say 10-12’ wide) but then it restricts it to being a ‘single’ car garage then.

I’ve also toyed with the idea of a wider header for a 16’ door, but then frame part of it in. This would let someone in the future easily swap out to wider if they wanted too.


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  #32  
Old 03-29-2018, 11:21 AM
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Something of an update.

Spoke to the building official for the area. Spacewise I can do what I’m thinking, I could even go a little bigger, but I think it would get into some issues with existing items in the yard.

An engineered pad is not required, so if it happens, I’ll go with a 6” slab, with rebar. When I mentioned insulation under the slab the comment was “if you really want to”. I know I hate cold floors and cold feet, so will likely still insulate.

Can’t decide on the door. I’d want a 12’ wide at least, so I’m still tempted to go 16’, so it can be considered/called a two car garage. Realistically at 20’ wide it would be tight, though we have that problem in a different way with the existing garage.


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  #33  
Old 04-03-2018, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
Something of an update.

Spoke to the building official for the area. Spacewise I can do what I’m thinking, I could even go a little bigger, but I think it would get into some issues with existing items in the yard.

An engineered pad is not required, so if it happens, I’ll go with a 6” slab, with rebar. When I mentioned insulation under the slab the comment was “if you really want to”. I know I hate cold floors and cold feet, so will likely still insulate.

Can’t decide on the door. I’d want a 12’ wide at least, so I’m still tempted to go 16’, so it can be considered/called a two car garage. Realistically at 20’ wide it would be tight, though we have that problem in a different way with the existing garage.


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Back when I was still working the construction end of my career, I used to see some basements that had styrofoam insulation vertically up against the basement wall from ground level down for probably 2 feet or so, and then a similar piece laid horizontally out from the wall at the base of the vertical section.
I don't know if it was effective at all, but I do know that every one of them ended up with a gap where the underground utilities were trenched in .
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  #34  
Old 04-03-2018, 07:58 PM
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Wouldn’t have been involved in that gap now, would you? Lol

I’m hoping that if this is a go, I can plan enough to run sweep ells for all the possibilities. The way I figure it, a few bucks in plastic is way nicer than having to have conduit up the outside of a building.


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  #35  
Old 04-04-2018, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by cramd View Post
Back when I was still working the construction end of my career, I used to see some basements that had styrofoam insulation vertically up against the basement wall from ground level down for probably 2 feet or so, and then a similar piece laid horizontally out from the wall at the base of the vertical section.
I don't know if it was effective at all, but I do know that every one of them ended up with a gap where the underground utilities were trenched in .
That is the recommended way to insulate, I personally would go to the footing. There is a surprising amount of heat rising from the ground in winter. As any ice road driver will tell you when a rock comes to a point under the ise about 25 ft, it will melt the ice from the current developed and focused along the sides.

In my shop, before I had heat in it, the pail of water sitting on the floor would not freeze until the outside air reached -30C, as there was enough heat coming from the ground through the cement and being trapped in the building.
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  #36  
Old 02-16-2019, 07:07 PM
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Well, discussion of late is putting this back into the realm of possibility.

Been working on getting some pricing on 20x30, looking at maxing out on height with 12’ walls, and a 12’ wide, x 10’ high door.

Too much snow to confirm measurements, I think I’m maxed on width at 20’, length, if I can, I’m hoping to go a little more. 36’ is likely the absolute max I can go to on the length.

I hope to get some more numbers together over the next couple weeks.


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  #37  
Old 02-16-2019, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greywynd View Post
Well, discussion of late is putting this back into the realm of possibility.

Been working on getting some pricing on 20x30, looking at maxing out on height with 12’ walls, and a 12’ wide, x 10’ high door.

Too much snow to confirm measurements, I think I’m maxed on width at 20’, length, if I can, I’m hoping to go a little more. 36’ is likely the absolute max I can go to on the length.

I hope to get some more numbers together over the next couple weeks.


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For my taste, 20' is a bit narrow for a 2 car garage. I'd like 22 minimum and as much as 26' if you can get away with it.

I think a full size extended cab pickup with an 8' box is on the order of 22' bumper to bumper. At least that is the number that I recall for my GM. 26' in depth of the garage gives just enough to walk around it, but no more.

I had gas fired infra red heat put in my shop nearly 20 years ago. I like it a lot. Virtually instant heat when required, and I can still turn the heat way down when I want to. I think you may be required to go to 2 x 6 wall even on a garage now. Worth checking. It does give another 2" of insulation.

Something I nearly got bitten with is having enough room above the door opening for the overhead door header. Apparently a double 2 x 12 is only good for a 10' opening.....long story.
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  #38  
Old 02-17-2019, 09:47 AM
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Mark, when I did the figures for the shop roof, shingles were about 25% more than a steel roof.
That is with everything under them the same. Same sheeting, Ice & Water membrane, and other bits. If you are looking at hiring the work done, labor cost will be about double for shingles over steel.
Since I am going to build either a new shop or remodel the existing one, I went with steel on purlins. Instead of spending money on all the sheeting and the membrane.
I can re-use the steel panels.
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  #39  
Old 02-17-2019, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Lu47Dan View Post
Mark, when I did the figures for the shop roof, shingles were about 25% more than a steel roof.
That is with everything under them the same. Same sheeting, Ice & Water membrane, and other bits. If you are looking at hiring the work done, labor cost will be about double for shingles over steel.
Since I am going to build either a new shop or remodel the existing one, I went with steel on purlins. Instead of spending money on all the sheeting and the membrane.
I can re-use the steel panels.
Dan
I have no idea how long shingles last in our country , I suspect 10 years, as the mobile I just bought is 10 years old and they replaced the shingles in 2018.
I can assure you that next time, there will be a steel roof on it. I built a house in 1985 and roofed with steel, it is still as good as new two years ago. My shop, built 2009, has a steel roof as good as new 10 years on.
There are many cute designs out there to resemble shingles, tiles, shakes, or whatever turns your crank.
In the old days you had one profile and one color, galvanized.
And yes, I recycle them into barn siding or whatever, when someone gives me a bit of roof tin.

Um, Mark....you do realize we have a shop build forum? just sayin'
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  #40  
Old 02-17-2019, 04:05 PM
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I think I may have started this just before the re-organizing of the closet happened.

Cutter would you be so kind as to move this?

I would love to go wider if I can, however there’s a tree and our gazebo/firepit that are in the way. I will have to do more measurement to see, but I think 20’ is all I will get on the width.

I’ve rethought the door, 12’ wide is what I’m going with, and with the higher walls, I’ll likely go 10’ high.

Again more measuring required, I’m hoping I can go a little longer, hopefully 36’ if I can.

The debate with the other half being military is always how far to go with quality. Ideally, there’s a good chance she’s here another 10 years until she would be able to retire.

I’ll price steel roofing, if it’s comparable I’ll go that route.

Shingles, for a 20x36 roof would only be 30 bundles or so, with the air nailer they go pretty quick.


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