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  #111  
Old 06-08-2011, 07:34 PM
locomoconomo locomoconomo is offline
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First post on this forum, hope ya'll don't mind a little question.

What is the best way to remove water from a system that is going to be an occasional use/sandblasting setup? Below are some images of a compressor I recieved from a Ford Dealership (now closed) that I worked for as a service advisor. I'm going to have to perform a temporary install beneath a metal carport until I get my shop built after taxes next year, so I'll find or start a suitable thread to post my questions on repair/maintenance of an old compressor there. But in the short term, I'll use my fathers Campbell Hausfeld portable 30 Gallon compressor to drive a gravity fed sandblaster. I know from reading various threads concerning sandblasting that moisture in the inlet air causes clogging and hassles, so how do I remove it, as cheaply and efficiently as possible?

Before I get any answers from the pro's, what do you think about converting a 5 gallon water cooler into an air cooler? Cut an inlet and outlet hole in the lid of say...an Igloo water cooler. Spiral wind a length, say 20' of 3/8" copper into and inner and outer coil leaving an both ends to exit through the holes in the lid. Bend the inlet and outlet into 90* and attach quick connects. Fill the cooler with icy water and put some kind of simple dryer/drain inline between it and the application? Yes? No? Stupid? Just free thinking...

-Loco
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  #112  
Old 06-09-2011, 07:54 PM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by locomoconomo View Post
First post on this forum, hope ya'll don't mind a little question.

Before I get any answers from the pro's, what do you think about converting a 5 gallon water cooler into an air cooler? Cut an inlet and outlet hole in the lid of say...an Igloo water cooler. Spiral wind a length, say 20' of 3/8" copper into and inner and outer coil leaving an both ends to exit through the holes in the lid. Bend the inlet and outlet into 90* and attach quick connects. Fill the cooler with icy water and put some kind of simple dryer/drain inline between it and the application? Yes? No? Stupid? Just free thinking...

-Loco
Welcome to the site.

Anything will help, that includes keeping the compressor out of the heat/Sun.
If you place some of the Ice in a plastic bag it will not melt as fast.

Check Tricks & Tips under Air ....Franzinator.
http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ead.php?t=9699
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  #113  
Old 06-09-2011, 08:03 PM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is offline
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+1 Gwiz,
A franzinator would be a good way to go, and if you used ice with it you would lower the dew point of the air , removing even more water.
Dan.
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  #114  
Old 06-10-2011, 12:57 PM
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I'm working late tonight and inbetween rebooting servers and while waiting for progress bars to work their merry way across the screen I've been reading your thread.


Top work Dan, a hell of a lot of useful info in there, well written and while you go into the more advanced topics you still let us know what bits we can actually ignore.


Good stuff out of you.




So, pex?
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  #115  
Old 06-20-2011, 09:26 AM
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monckywrench monckywrench is offline
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Quote:
The PVC has to be stronger then the rubber air hose we use, right?
No. It doesn't. PVC is brittle, rubber hose is not. Feel free to test with a hammer.

I considered piping and decided to skip hardlines completely. I just run hose wherever I like. Copper is expensive, iron will rust due to humidity, PVC is brittle, and the proprietary plastic airline systems aren't designed for me to pull and rearrange them like ordinary hoses.

If it gets damaged it's easy to fix, and I've left pneumatic hose as well as (good) extension cords lie in my yard for years with no problem.

After repeatedly deploying and seeing all sorts of electrical cables and pneumatic hose survive for years even in Saudi heat, that's good enough for me. Common sense applies of course, and I do inspect for damage.
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  #116  
Old 06-22-2011, 06:59 PM
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Lu47Dan Lu47Dan is offline
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John, I have not had enough experience with pex to write a thread on it.
If I remember correctly pex can be used for air lines also, we pulled pex to replace old galvanized steel pipe in a buddies house, we had to cut the drywall at the floor and ceiling to drill new holes for the pex with a right angle drill and then fix the holes but to replace the old lines with copper would have meant cutting out the drywall from the whole stud cavity. This way he had less to fix, since he finishes drywall for a living he figured he could handle the repairs.
it took four days and 600' of 1/2 inch pex to home run all his water lines in the house. He is happy with it now.
Dan.
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  #117  
Old 06-22-2011, 09:15 PM
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Jim-TX Jim-TX is offline
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Has anyone used Rapidair? It looks like it's simple and versatile to use. The drawback might be the $$$$.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...atchallpartial
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  #118  
Old 03-14-2012, 11:14 AM
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Thank you for the terrific information, it is putting me on the right track for my project!
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  #119  
Old 04-04-2012, 05:09 AM
bunkclimber bunkclimber is offline
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Thanks for the nice post,Dan..very informative!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lu47Dan View Post
Planning the system .
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  #120  
Old 04-04-2012, 07:27 AM
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Dan,

I always meant to ask you. what about your building local codes? Where I am, it is against code to use copper for anything other than water. Hospitals and medical facilities are exempt from that (medical oxygen, etc). I did mine in copper about 15 years ago and got fined and had my homeowner insurance cancelled because of the copper air lines. I got the insurance back after I had removed the air lines and was told by the governing bodies, not to do it again.
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