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  #11  
Old 06-24-2004, 05:32 AM
david_r david_r is offline
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MotorDoctor,
If you're sure you are working with aluminum and not a magnesium alloy, nitric acid will react with steel but not aluminum. Of course, I'm not sure you can buy it these days on the left coast.
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2004, 12:08 PM
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TheFrenchCanadian TheFrenchCanadian is offline
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Hey Grumpy, how goes the battle with the broken bolt? Give us an update when you get out from under that minivan!!
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  #13  
Old 06-24-2004, 12:31 PM
'Ol Pilot
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Well, if you can find some high strength nitric acid, just mix it with some sulfuric acid and glycerine. Boil it up on the stove to concentrate it, yeah, that's the ticket! The resulting product is guaranteed to take out that bolt (along with the stove and half the neighborhood).

Seriously, if you go after that broken EZ-Out with a drill, you'll need a carbide bit. High speed steel, Ti coated are all peanut butter and even cobalt won't hack it. A couple of tricks - spin that bit as fast as possible and watch the temperatures. Carbide is typically silver soldered on so if you hit 1100-1200 degrees, you'll be in trouble. Next, don't use a coolant unless you start with a coolant. Thermal shock can fracture the carbide. Also, if you "break through" while drilling with any appeciable load, expect to break the carbide. Carbide doesn't like thermal or sudden impact shock.

'Rotsa 'Ruck, as they say in Japan.
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  #14  
Old 06-24-2004, 03:21 PM
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grumpy grumpy is offline
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Update: Yesterday tried American brand easy out instead of Chinese. Didn't break the blame thing just twisted it. Used heat and another easy out--no dice. Heated it some more and tried the old cape chisel bang it out--no go again. Today I took the day off.

I kinda suspect that the cumulative forces of the shock not moving properly and the stresses involved in hitting pot holes may have just created deeper threads and it's now solid. Also looked at the bolt head. Looks as if there was an initiation point on the bolt and approximately 1/3 of the bolt had beach marks and no matter how delicate we would have been would have been useless the bolt would just have broken anyway.

Lesson learned: From now on if my son or I cannot break the bond with either an impact gun or breaker bar (without a cheater) then I'm breaking out the O/A torch FIRST heating that suckar then removing the blame bolt.

Still haven't figured out what I'm going to do.

Guess spend $$$.

Thanks for thinking 'bout me. This site is nice.
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2004, 03:22 PM
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grumpy grumpy is offline
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Hey guys. What do you think about drilling out the hole finding a bolt snug enough to go into the hole and welding the blame thing. Would it work? Opinions please.
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  #16  
Old 06-24-2004, 03:30 PM
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grumpy grumpy is offline
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Default Nitric and Sulfaric Acid?

Hey 'Ol Pilot. Just about forgot. Is mixing those two acids anything like mixing old fashion Ivory soap flakes and gasoline, boiling it slowly over a stove to make homemade Napalm?
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  #17  
Old 06-24-2004, 04:28 PM
Franz Franz is offline
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I'm not becoming involved with this current version of the ongoing saga of the Gilbert Chemistry Set.
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  #18  
Old 06-24-2004, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy
Hey guys. What do you think about drilling out the hole finding a bolt snug enough to go into the hole and welding the blame thing. Would it work? Opinions please.
or what about drilling it out and putting a nut/bolt setup in it instead of the bolt into threaded hole or whatever is going on.
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  #19  
Old 06-24-2004, 05:09 PM
'Ol Pilot
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Actually, Grumpy, I was referring to the poor man's (dead man's?) way of making nitroglycerine - just in case your heart needs it of course after a session under the van!

I think it's time to talk about the "H" word. Helicoil, that is. Any chance of getting it drilled out completely and inserting a Helicoil? NAPA auto parts stores and others stock Helicoil kits. I'd talk to the counter guy or better yet, their machine shop guy. Or you could take the axle to them and have them Helicoil it for a nominal fee. I think I'd quit beating on it - you may work harden it and make it worse. Of course, on the other hand, maybe all the heat you've used has annealed it and made it softer.
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  #20  
Old 06-24-2004, 06:46 PM
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Ya know I was thinking about this A.M. But not Helicoil. I was thinking more like E-Z Lok Thread Inserts. I'm familiar with Helicoil. I was asking some buddies today what they about the stress of the inserts and they believe it wouldn't be as strong. The original bolt went into the axle (I can't explain the part other than a hunk of metal about 1" in dia by about 1.5" long. The bolt went all the way through. Just looked at a catalog with those "things" and it didn't even specify the length. Maybe I'll go to Fastenal tomorrow and check them out. But the way I was thinking was the stress on the helicoil and ez-lok would be more than they could carry and would shortly give.

Good thought though.

Yes I thought about using a bolt and nut but the area behind the axle does not have enough room for a bolt or nut (just about 1/8" or so.

As for heat I didn't get it red hot for fear of altering the metal characteristics.

Thanks for the input and please continue. Between us there HAS to be a solution.
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