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  #11  
Old 02-01-2024, 10:02 PM
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I do like the idea if the plate. Unfortunately I dont have a tig machine anymore. If i did i would probably take it apart and repair it from inside out.
Bummer to hear that those alum rivet nuts loosen up.. What about the ones that butterfly out? Do they loosen up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
The crappy aluminum riv-nuts that I have did not work very well, they loosen up and turn, the surface needs to be flat.
Maybe steel riv-nuts will work if they don't you will be left with a big hole.

Another idea move the holes. (assuming the hinge is weldable).
if a plate will work, weld the hinge on to a plate, or cut out the plate and weld the perimeter of the hinge to the plates cutout.
I'm thinking 1/16" thickness, 304 SS plate but beware SS can be hard to cut and drill, I suggest you test out your skill level with SS before you try welding the hinge to it.

May consider have the SS strip/plate long enough to span to the other hinge. so both hinges are attached to the same strip.
you can add a third hinge.

May also last longer if you grind the diamond plate to the flat surface.

side note: IIRC I believe there is flat head pop rivets that are used for counter sunk holes.
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  #12  
Old 02-02-2024, 09:51 AM
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Maybe try the rubber version if you can find one small enough to fit the space?

Well Nuts
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  #13  
Old 02-02-2024, 12:48 PM
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I’m sorry what do you mean rubber version?

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Originally Posted by dubby View Post
Maybe try the rubber version if you can find one small enough to fit the space?

Well Nuts
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  #14  
Old 02-02-2024, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubby View Post
Maybe try the rubber version if you can find one small enough to fit the space?

Well Nuts
Click on the link.

Not saying they won't work, but they will deteriorate over time.
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  #15  
Old 02-02-2024, 02:43 PM
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If your standard rivet tool’s nose is too large to seat the rivet straight, I’d be tempted to grind the nose insert on one side to get the clearance needed.

Or, a neater solution would be to turn up a small OD, extended length nose insert for the rivet tool on a lathe. The pop rivet pins should be long enough to work with the extension.

A short, hollow standoff would work too, at least till it flies off into the assorted detritus around the work area when the pin pops…. I’m thinking that if this is the route you choose to go, standoffs from between printed circuit boards would be roughly the right size and length.
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  #16  
Old 02-02-2024, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubby View Post
Maybe try the rubber version if you can find one small enough to fit the space?

Well Nuts

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  #17  
Old 02-02-2024, 08:16 PM
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i hear ya! I was thinking of that way but i dont have access to any machines anymore.
Quote:
Originally Posted by camdigger View Post
If your standard rivet tool’s nose is too large to seat the rivet straight, I’d be tempted to grind the nose insert on one side to get the clearance needed.

Or, a neater solution would be to turn up a small OD, extended length nose insert for the rivet tool on a lathe. The pop rivet pins should be long enough to work with the extension.

A short, hollow standoff would work too, at least till it flies off into the assorted detritus around the work area when the pin pops…. I’m thinking that if this is the route you choose to go, standoffs from between printed circuit boards would be roughly the right size and length.
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  #18  
Old 02-02-2024, 08:17 PM
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ahh i see. i am a bit skeptical of the rubber. i think i will go with the butterflying inserts.
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Millermatic 185 W/ Spoolmate 185
O/A Victor setup
Dewalt power tools
Craftsman/Snapon hand tools
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  #19  
Old 02-03-2024, 07:08 PM
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I have a kit like this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35263895521...Bk9SR5De_5auYw

I could send one of my adapters or the kit if you pay shipping both ways.
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  #20  
Old 02-03-2024, 09:10 PM
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jack nuts (butterfly) might be the best solution, and if the threads were to fail, they can be removed fairly easily
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