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Old 01-24-2024, 07:09 AM
VW cat VW cat is offline
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Default Water heater anode question

I'm replacing my leaking 4 year old 40 gallon water heater with a similar GSW unit. I removed the aluminum anode from the old one, so I could heat it with lines from an outdoor furnace heat exchanger. The dealer back then said that's the only way it can be done.

I got the idea, why not cut the threaded end off the anode and just drop it in the tank. Will it work, or is it better to suspend ,allowing water flow past?
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Old 01-24-2024, 02:24 PM
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Has to do with electron flow direction and needs to be attached to the tank for it to work.

Most water heater Tanks are guaranteed for 5 to 10 years, you should call the factory with a serial number for a replacement.
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Old 01-24-2024, 08:21 PM
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I’ve seen hot water heaters with side arm heaters from wood boilers. Pull bottom drain valve out and top relief valve. Replace with tees, to keep drain valves and relief valve in place. Connect the two tees together, with a heat exchanger made from a larger piece of copper pipe with a smaller one inside that connects the top and bottom tees into the water heater.

I tried to draw a picture, and included a couple pictures of a set up in a house that I just switched out the wood boilers last December.


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Old 01-25-2024, 07:16 PM
VW cat VW cat is offline
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I never thought about plumbing it that way. My heat exchanger is 5' long. I'm guessing it would heat water just as efficiently from the relief valve port, as off a top port, where the anode is...
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Old 01-25-2024, 07:24 PM
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IIRC, the cold water inlet/input has a long tube that forces the cold water to the bottom of the tank closer to the burner.

If you look in the cold/hot threaded holes you should see the tube.
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Old 01-25-2024, 07:49 PM
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I'm using the model with the cold intake at the bottom. I'm not sure why, I guess because the first one 45 years ago was like that. I'm always afraid the grand kids will run into it with their pedal cars.
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Old 01-26-2024, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VW cat View Post
I'm using the model with the cold intake at the bottom. I'm not sure why,
Just noting my information is more on gas water heaters don't know much about electric ones.

about 2 years ago I was in Lowe's pricing Gas water heaters there were some priced about $200 cheaper but were tagged "not for home use or something to that wording".
I asked and that person stated the inlet is at the bottom and for homes the inlets were at the top.
IIRC,
the bottom inlets are for maybe mobile homes or RV's where the water supply lines come in.

Slab homes run the pipes in the attic so they connect from the top.
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Old 01-26-2024, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
Just noting my information is more on gas water heaters don't know much about electric ones.

about 2 years ago I was in Lowe's pricing Gas water heaters there were some priced about $200 cheaper but were tagged "not for home use or something to that wording".
I asked and that person stated the inlet is at the bottom and for homes the inlets were at the top.
IIRC,
the bottom inlets are for maybe mobile homes or RV's where the water supply lines come in.

Slab homes run the pipes in the attic so they connect from the top.

I have a mobile home and I always seem to find that I have to get the “special “ appliances that are only for “mobile homes” and they are always about $200 more. Everything else is cheaper when bought new, but replacement costs are always inflated more.


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Old 01-27-2024, 02:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWIZ View Post
I asked and that person stated the inlet is at the bottom and for homes the inlets were at the top.
IIRC,
the bottom inlets are for maybe mobile homes or RV's where the water supply lines come in.

Slab homes run the pipes in the attic so they connect from the top.
I've never seen a heater here that has inlets at the bottom. And a large bulk of the slab houses are built with lines under the pour and come up through the walls. There are a few that have lines in the attic though.

My place is pier and beam, as are a lot of them in my neighborhood and they are all of the top inlet design. The inlaws manufactured home is the same way.

The bossman's house is top-fed with an 'instant heat' loop built in. The pump circulates the hot water to all the faucets and then back to the tank. It has some seriously weird plumbing to accommodate all that but the unit itself is a fairly basic 40 gal gas affair.

I had never considered that you could actually re-purpose the drain and pressure valves to serve extra functions but it makes a lot of sense.
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2024, 09:59 AM
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To me the bottom inlet would do a lot to keep the sediment cleaned out of the bottom since very few see the need to keep them drained .
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