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  #11  
Old 10-07-2023, 11:13 AM
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arizonian arizonian is offline
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Can't help with the concrete. Welcome to the sandbox.

Where are you located?
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  #12  
Old 10-07-2023, 07:16 PM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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I have thought about concrete anchoring in the past. I like the idea of having a flush plate with tapped holes. The holes would be a standard pitch which is 2.5” or 5” (Bridgeport T-slot spacing) which is the standard in my shop. This allows any fixture I currently have or any I make in the future to be used on the floor as well. A nice benefit to a flush mounted plate is the uninterrupted floor surface.

With two floor anchors strategically placed, virtually any type of structure could be fastened that could work for a variety of uses, including a stanchion that could support a winch high off the ground.
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  #13  
Old 10-08-2023, 09:22 AM
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arizonian arizonian is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by threepiece View Post
I have thought about concrete anchoring in the past. I like the idea of having a flush plate with tapped holes. The holes would be a standard pitch which is 2.5” or 5” (Bridgeport T-slot spacing) which is the standard in my shop. This allows any fixture I currently have or any I make in the future to be used on the floor as well. A nice benefit to a flush mounted plate is the uninterrupted floor surface.

With two floor anchors strategically placed, virtually any type of structure could be fastened that could work for a variety of uses, including a stanchion that could support a winch high off the ground.
Three points create a plane. Two points create a (hinge) line.
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  #14  
Old 10-08-2023, 06:35 PM
Scratch Scratch is offline
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Not sure if you're interested, but I recently poured a slab for my shop as well and I added a large jig with 2" receiver tubes flush with the floor. Here's the thread:
https://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums...ad.php?t=54427

Here's some pics of what it looks like now and how I use it. I love the versatility of it already, but I don't know if I'd like it for hooking a winch to. I guess it should be perfectly fine for pulling a free rolling vehicle up a small incline into your shop, but I would think twice about dragging something in with a lot of weight. I feel the lever effect might want to crack the concrete more. Like I said, a rolling vehicle should be fine, but if you're dragging cars with locked up wheels, I think a large block of steel with threaded holes or chains might be better. maybe something with both. Post up what you end up with!!
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  #15  
Old 10-09-2023, 10:44 AM
DuneBuggyDean DuneBuggyDean is offline
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Thanks for the kind welcome, and for all of the bits of advice. There was a gentleman that was making some of these with a 2" receiver, and some rebar welded to the receiver tube, with flanges that finished the floor out nicely. If the pedestal is made with the inside tube about 2" longer than the concrete portion, no need for a pin, since all of the leverage/load is perpendicular to the mount.

Still doing some thinking, I may just fab my own from receiver tube, as that is seeming like the most straight forward approach.

I live in Suprise, AZ by the way.
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  #16  
Old 10-09-2023, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuneBuggyDean View Post
Thanks for the kind welcome...

I live in Suprise, AZ by the way.
Surprise, surprise!!!

Passed thru there years ago when travelling between Tucson and Bagdad. And then there is El Mirage, a most fitting name for an AZ town.

Pic of my ride from a few months ago.
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Bill in sunny Tucson

I believe in gun control.

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  #17  
Old 10-09-2023, 05:54 PM
threepiece threepiece is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arizonian View Post
Three points create a plane. Two points create a (hinge) line.
Indeed, but I don’t think a hinge line exists with what I have in mind.
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  #18  
Old 10-10-2023, 06:44 AM
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I did something similar when I poured an approach to my shop. I made up a metal piece that had a 2-1/2” tube to accept a 2” receiver tube inside. I also had it attached to a piece of flat steel that was flush with the finish floor. This was so I can weld to it later. I used it one time so far to straighten a side by side frame. It comes in handy sometimes to be able to tie something to the heavy floor for ballast.

Finally after doing this ten years ago, last year I finally mounted a metal bender on a post to install in the floor tube. Ridgid from turning, and lots of space around it, but easily removable to store in the corner when not used.


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  #19  
Old 10-13-2023, 11:14 PM
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gimpyrobb gimpyrobb is offline
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Love all the input! I had pictured what Scratch posted in my mind but really like some of the other ideas posted!
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  #20  
Old 10-24-2023, 07:40 PM
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monckywrench monckywrench is offline
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No need to cast if you fab something at leisure then bolt it down with expanding anchors which will be loaded in shear when pulling.

My shop floor forms are steel beams (no need to waste money on wood and I can weld to my "foundation") but I made a simple anchor point for my bro which is just a hunk of heavy angle with two anchor holes and a torch-cut slot for chain.

I hang a snatch block off that, place chocks if moving a vehicle, then winch whatever I'm moving into place from the outside using my truck winch. I also use a 12v Harbor Freight winch driven by my Clore JNC 660 jump pack as a horizontal tugger.
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