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  #21  
Old 07-21-2014, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by DeepSeaDynamo View Post
That may be, but like 90% of the engines that we used offshore were air start, and they sure do work well as long as you have enough air.
Yup, hence me saying "on road".

Just so we cover all the bases and nothings left out there are hydraulic starters with an accumulator and a hand pump for back up, there are starters that require a shotgun blank and there are starters with flywheels and hand cranks that once reach a certain speed engage the engine. And of course the ever popular pony engine, a whole engine just to start another engine.

BH I'm still pondering on a solution for ya.

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  #22  
Old 07-21-2014, 09:16 PM
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Harold one thing I wonder about is the ground for the solenoids adequate? I don't know how many times I've fixed a solenoid issue by making sure there was a dang good ground provided for them. You might test it temporarily by using some jumper cables.

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  #23  
Old 07-23-2014, 08:15 AM
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If you are useing 24 volts, are the starters 24 volts each or are they 2 12 volts in series? What do you have the the two small terminals on the soleniod hooked to? If I remember correctly one is labled "s" and the other "i". And you said that these were ford starter relays, not continuous duty relays correct. If it is a ford relay wire like a contiuous duty that could cause too much current drain.
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  #24  
Old 07-23-2014, 08:41 AM
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They are stock ford 12v starters being fed 24v. The batteries are in series and the solenoids and starters are parallel.They spin over like a son of a gun. The tractor starts very easily so the starters usually crank 5-10 seconds and the tractor is running. I am in the process of going through all the connections and grounds and putting in new Echlin ST82 solenoids now so will see what happens.
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  #25  
Old 07-23-2014, 11:20 AM
bristolmech bristolmech is offline
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Use a solenoid with a continuous duty rating. Something like the motor control solenoid for a electric golf cart. A normal solenoid like your using has copper contacts inside, under high amp draw they are prone to arcing and sticking. A continuous duty solenoid has silver plated contacts in it and is less prone to arcing and sticking. Use a standard automotive part #of SS-597 or the it's equal. Make sure what you get is says continuous duty in it's description.
I've been down this path before and this is usually a cure.

Good luck, Mike
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  #26  
Old 07-23-2014, 04:20 PM
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Nothing to offer that hasn't already been discussed buuuuut... WE NEED PICTURES, DAMMIT! Not necessarily of the solenoids but the beast they are attached to!
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  #27  
Old 07-24-2014, 11:17 PM
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Harold any news on this? I'm really curious as to the solution.

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  #28  
Old 07-24-2014, 11:28 PM
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This is the first time I have done this so bear with me. My wife has 10,000 pictures of flowers on this computer, but try to find a good tractor picture. Ha Yes it was a hot dry day and we were the last hook of the show. there is a sled back there honest

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Last edited by Bountyhunter; 07-24-2014 at 11:49 PM.
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  #29  
Old 07-24-2014, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bountyhunter View Post
This is the first time I have done this so bear with me. My wife has 10,000 pictures of flowers on this computer, but try to find a good tractor picture. Ha Yes it was a hot dry day and we were the last hook of the show. there is a sled back there honest
That looks like fun
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  #30  
Old 07-24-2014, 11:56 PM
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ID:	117283 Finally found the one I want. this is my son on a winning run in Darwell 2 yrs ago. I may just put in the stock solenoids in for the next pull and then persue better solenoids when the pressure is off. I am calling my supplier in the morning as Cole Hersee has some with silver contacts but only 200 amps but 700 intermittent so will see what the price is.
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