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#21
10-23-2009, 05:48 AM
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I also agree on the saw. Very nice. 2 clamps and a 2x4 = fence. I would contact Ellis for blade material. Mostly you will use maybe a 8-12 variable but you will have to have a 5-8 or so for aluminum. I am seeing some 10hp converters for about $350. Put it in a dog house outside. 
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You do the best you can with what you've got.
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#22
10-23-2009, 06:42 AM
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I have a trailer with an over head gantry/trolley, I built almost 20years ago. It's time for a update to it though. When I originally built it, it was as a single axle to haul Old 60 vintage SAAB cars. The as I moved into newer SAABs I added the second axle and about 12" to the overall length and reinforced the neck. Then around the same time, I came up with the notion that I was tired of all the heavy lifting and built the over head contraption. I was thinking I'd use 4 or 5" channel and have proper cross braces and maybe a full length runners tying into the back. As it is now I am using 1.25" 1/8" wall square tubing with angle brackets at the ends this works great when the loads are at the edges like in cars, but with all the heavier equipment I've been moving you can see the center of the bars are bending slightly with load on.
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#23
10-23-2009, 06:57 AM
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Sorry, I never answered how I moved it.
Since you aren't supposed to move it by lifting on the head at all. I figured I could see if I could budge it at all with hand/leg power. I was able to move it slightly to and fro. And is the reason I don't think it weighs 1000 or 1200lbs like they say it does. Next step was to put the planks off the back of the trailer that the saw was on. I did this by setting up a snatch block at the end of the trailer and used the hand winch to pull it towards the back. Once the planks and saw were about 3 feet from the end I connect the hand winch cable thru the trolley on top and fed the trolley to just above the machine, then I wrapped some tie down straps 15K babies around the neck and over the head. I wiggled the saw back and forth while feeding out the hand winch 4-5" and then going back and wiggling again. The winch was to keep the saw from going out of control and flipping over. There was very little weight on the strap and winch at anytime. Nice thing about doing the cable thru the trolley was the trolley moved as needed and the cable simply fed out as needed. Unlike using a lifting device directly to the saw and trolley. That trolley moves really quickly since it doesn't have a brake on it. I've thought about putting a double cabled hand winch with cable one cable running clockwise and the other counter clockwise and putting a sheave at the end and using the cable to control the trolley but has seemed to be more work then not. Wish I could figure out a way to make it quick attach/detach for regular use. Once I wiggled enough and was at the threshold of the garage door. The saw wouldn't fit. I had to raise the front of the trailer to lower the planking in the rear about 3 inches. Then I wiggled again and it came off the planks just inside the garage. all intacked, Thank you very much!!!!!!  Oh, yeh, I did remove the table which from all the articles I have read said there are more trunnions broken with moving saws since everbody uses it as a handle for lifting.  I didn't want to be tempted.
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#24
10-23-2009, 07:03 AM
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I'd love to get a 20HP converter since I have a big @ scuba compressor that has a 15HP 3 phase on it. 15cfm@5000psi.
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#25
10-23-2009, 07:28 AM
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These are home built rotaries using 3 phase motors. Actually it seems cheaper if you make a larger one. I am sure a 20hp rotary is not expensive but it might dim the lights when it started. There is noise involved so I recommended a dog house outside.
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You do the best you can with what you've got.
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#26
10-23-2009, 07:37 AM
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On your trailer, it would be very easy to brace the cross bar at the back and the I beam traveler. The movement of the trolly could be controlled by a live cable going down one side around a pully and back on the other and hooked to the trolly. on the front end another pulley with a wrap around it and it would be endless. Then a gearbox drive and you could stand at the front of the trailer and move it back and front.
On your first photo. What is in the center background with a tin roof???
__________________
You do the best you can with what you've got.
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#27
10-23-2009, 07:38 AM
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Hi just checked Craigslist and I have found a 40HP 600.00 brand new 2008 unit supposedly made by Phoenix industries.
My question is Do I really need something this big? I mean will it take all the amperage of the 40hp though I'm only running say a 2 or 3 horse power motor for the most part? Could I add a smaller say 10 HP motor instead of the 40HP idler, and have it use less power? I have 100amp service to the shop, but I think 40hp needs whay 98amps?
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#29
10-23-2009, 07:58 AM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-10-HP-ROTARY...item5ad3a1f336 It weighs 144#, which means installing it in a fixed position & running good sized wiring (#8 AWG) from your service panel to the RPC and then to the machine. Figure in the cost of wiring, conduit, and 3-phase plugs and the $$$ start to head north. Most users start their RPC & let it run whenever they are working in the shop. When the RPC is running without any load it is drawing about 7 amps @ 240 volts = 1.7 kw. The average cost of electricity in the USA is $.11/kwh, so it costs $.19 for every hour running with no load. The VFD weighs in at 5#, give or take, which means that a sealed unit is small enough & light enough to mount right on the saw. For hook up you'll need #10 AWG machine cord, available at any electrical supply house for around a buck a foot, so installation cost is similar to lunch for two at McDonalds When I'm in the shop, all four VFD's are turned on & ready to start their motors. The drives, at idle, draw fewer amps (actually fewer milliamps) than the computer sitting on your desk. Manufacturers estimate drive life at 200,000 hours, meaning you can run it 8 hours a day, 7 days a week, for the next 68 years For less than half the cost of a RPC, the VFD makes a lot of sense - even if you use it only as a phase converter. BUT, you will probably make use of the adjustable soft start, and you may want to use the dynamic (instant) braking also. At today's prices, which are about half of what they were 10 years ago, the freq drive is very attractive.
__________________
Barry Milton - Please email or PayPal through PrecisionWorks.co PM's are disabled
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#30
10-23-2009, 11:22 AM
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The tooling in front of the trailer that looks like a ships tiller wheel is my Champion forge and blower Co No1 tire and axle shrinker, and other assorted tools.
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