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  #11  
Old 02-14-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Try running a 7/16 tap down the hole first. Sometimes import threads need to be cleaned up. Unless we are talking radical differences like a fine thread metric.

Here is a video from Joe Py that would be useful for setting angles on the sine bar.
After checking with the neighbor, I found his identical face mill is 7/16-20, same as mine. Ran a tap through the face mill and it did cut some. Did it 3 times before the draw bar went in smoothly. Also had a thread at the end of the draw bar that did not look so good so ground it off. Fave mill now oges in correctly.

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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
That's not really a sine bar; you need a second piece of round stock on the opposite end so you can use gauge blocks to set an angle. I can see it being a handy device for holding small parts on an angle but you need an independent method of actually setting the angle.

I would change the plate slightly by machining most of the face down while leaving a shoulder or step on the end nearest the round piece. That would leave you with a square shoulder to rest the part you're machining against. Your part would be located squarely on the plate; all you'd need to do is clamp it down.

Rigidity is going to be a bit of an issue with that thing as well. I really needs a support of some kind on the outboard end. On the few occasions when I've needed to cut an angle in the mill I've clamped a piece of flat in the vise but with a setup like that you'd only be able to take very light cuts before it started to move around.

The attached picture shows a true sine bar--it also shows the shoulder I mentioned above. The two rounds are mounted on the ground bar in such a way that when they are resting on a flat surface the top of the bar is dead parallel to the surface. The two rounds are located so their centre lines are exactly 5" apart. The 5" dimension is just a handy one to use but the rounds can be any dimension apart, it's more difficult to make calculations. By using gauge blocks and a little trig you can set the top face of the bar to very precise angles...
I already planned on making a shoulder on the plate next to the mounting holes that attach the plate to the round stock. Gong to mill a slot for a piece of key stock so I have a surface to mount parts square.
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  #12  
Old 02-14-2019, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
Same here; the sine bar gets used very rarely (there's just no need for angles that precise) but I do use angle plates from time to time...
A mill/drill has no tilt or nod so to mill angles you need some device.
I'm spoiled
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  #13  
Old 02-14-2019, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
...I already planned on making a shoulder on the plate next to the mounting holes that attach the plate to the round stock. Gong to mill a slot for a piece of key stock so I have a surface to mount parts square...
That's actually a pretty good idea--makes the shoulder removable for those times when you don't need it. Doesn't need to be a very high shoulder either, just something you can rest the workpiece against...
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  #14  
Old 02-14-2019, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
That's actually a pretty good idea--makes the shoulder removable for those times when you don't need it. Doesn't need to be a very high shoulder either, just something you can rest the workpiece against...
The slot will be only 1/8" deep so the key stock will sit up 1/8"., and yes it will be movable. It was on the video, not an original idea from me. I am not too proud to copy!!!!!
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:17 PM
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Between breakfast, brunch, lunch, supper, visiting the neighbor, checking on the missus and a few butt breaks I did manage to get some forward progress today. Laid out and drill 3 of the 3/8" plate mounting holes. Should finish up tomorrow morning, then on to the 3/8-16 tapped holes in the plate.

Will be much simpler doing hole layout and drilling after Ironman helps me hook up the DRO on the mill this spring.
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  #16  
Old 02-18-2019, 06:08 PM
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Single digits here the last few days so hunkered down in the house. Got bored today so lit a fire in the shop and made good progress today. Too damned cold so had to take a few breaks and stand next to the wood stove to warm up the hands.

Finished up drilling the plate mounting holes. Have to countersink them for 3/8" flat head allen screws yet. Got the plate drilled an tapped for 3/8-16 on the mill. Real nice to have the reverse function when power tapping.

Next to run a countersink in the tapped holes, then mount the plate on the 2" round mount in the vise and mill the sides so they are square to the table. Final step will be to mill a 1/4" slot for a piece of key stock next to the plate mounting holes for parts to butt up square against.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2019, 10:32 PM
Lew Hartswick Lew Hartswick is offline
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Why the odd spacing on the rows of holes??
...lew...
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2019, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Lew Hartswick View Post
Why the odd spacing on the rows of holes??
...lew...
A little error on marking the layout. Used my phone calculator to come up with the dimensions then used a scale to mark the rows. Guess I need training on reading a scale. Noticed it after drilling the first hole. There is no specific need for exactly even spaced holes, as long at you have enough to clamp parts down, so kept on drilling.
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  #19  
Old 02-20-2019, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
There is no specific need for exactly even spaced holes, as long at you have enough to clamp parts down.
That is what I would think.
Now If I were a real machinist, I might think differently. but I'm just-a-tinkering with machining my self... So I wouldn't know the importance of if the hold down holes needs to be any different.
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  #20  
Old 02-20-2019, 10:33 AM
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That is what I would think.
Now If I were a real machinist, I might think differently. but I'm just-a-tinkering with machining my self... So I wouldn't know the importance of if the hold down holes needs to be any different.

You will need something like this for clamping parts to the plate. You can use 3/8" all thread to make the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-T-Slot-Cl...8C94KJ8NNM83F7
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