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Old 12-28-2018, 09:36 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Default Drilling Corten Steel?

I have 5 Sea Cans that are gonna need about 12-14 holes total, most of which are 2-1/4" diameter to fit LB's for power and auto-drain hoses for dehumidifiers -

I haven't tried drilling anything yet, have exactly ONE Starrett bimetal hole saw that size and rather than find out the hard way I shoulda done something different I thought I'd check with the REAL "internet experts" (as in, "experts who hang out on the net" instead of "net-spurts" who pretend to know stuff....

So what say you - will I end up having to get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWACM1...ords=DWACM1836

AFTER I trash a perfectly good (near virgin) hole saw, and STILL need to replace the bimetal one too, or??

I'd just use the plasma, but I want these to be easily SEALED once they're in place.

No real rush, probably won't get to the FIRST one for another week or two... Steve
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:49 PM
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Plasma cutter and a suitably sized ring template to slide the torch
around (inside so not to make any oopsies)
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:36 PM
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I’d just use the hole saw. Go slow, use lube.
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Old 12-28-2018, 11:08 PM
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I've used hole saws on containers before--definitely not mild steel but it works. As was pointed out, go slow and use oil. I think some of it has to do with the quality of the hole saw you're using. I may be old and forgetful but it seems to me that we used to get better life out of hole saws back in the "good ol' days". Sometimes it seems like it sure doesn't take much to rip the teeth off a brand new tool...
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Old 12-29-2018, 04:17 AM
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I would buy the carbide tipped hole saw but not Dewalt. Buy a Champion CT5 in the correct size you need. I have not had much good luck with Dewalt drills bits and saw blades. On the other hand the Champion CT7's I have bought are still going strong.
Use a good drill motor and a little care the CT5 will last many times the number of holes you have to drill. Keep the rpm's reasonable for the size of hole you are cutting also.
I have not used oil on thin metal, but on thicker stock I do use cutting oil.
Dan.
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Old 12-29-2018, 07:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BukitCase View Post
I have 5 Sea Cans that are gonna need about 12-14 holes total, most of which are 2-1/4" diameter to fit LB's for power and auto-drain hoses for dehumidifiers -

I haven't tried drilling anything yet, have exactly ONE Starrett bimetal hole saw that size and rather than find out the hard way I shoulda done something different I thought I'd check with the REAL "internet experts" (as in, "experts who hang out on the net" instead of "net-spurts" who pretend to know stuff....

So what say you - will I end up having to get something like this
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWACM1...ords=DWACM1836

AFTER I trash a perfectly good (near virgin) hole saw, and STILL need to replace the bimetal one too, or??

I'd just use the plasma, but I want these to be easily SEALED once they're in place.

No real rush, probably won't get to the FIRST one for another week or two... Steve
Don't waste your money on that Dowhat find the cheap ones on cramazon or flebay the china ones are just as good just go slow use cutting oil cheap or good the carbide teeth will brake if you go to fast using by hand I have a set of china made ones I have been using for 3 years now with no issues and are still sharp
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
Don't waste your money on that Dowhat find the cheap ones on cramazon or flebay the china ones are just as good just go slow use cutting oil cheap or good the carbide teeth will brake if you go to fast using by hand I have a set of china made ones I have been using for 3 years now with no issues and are still sharp
For sure.
Almost any cheap drill bit or hole saw will drill a seacan just fine.
Last fall I drilled 234 holes 7/32" and holesaw cut 4 - 3" and 4 1.5" holes in a can. These were drilled through 1/2" plywood and 2" foam and through the can. It acts like mild steel.
All done with a 1/2" Milwaukee hand held cordless.
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Last edited by Ironman; 12-29-2018 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:44 AM
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Yep, just hack it up. You've already spent more time thinking about it than it would take to do the job. We used a 6" cheapy on ours at the range when we installed the woodburning stove to run the chimney through the side. The only bitch I had about that was that the dumbass who started the hole thought it'd be cool to drill it where the flat turned into a ridge instead of moving the stove over 3"

I went back and enlarged the chimney to an 8" and just used a sawzall and a grinder with a cutting disc. It grinds/smooths just fine. If you were particularly worried about it, I'd suggest starting an 1/8" or so smaller than you need and then using a die grinder to ream it out to a tight fit. I used a high-temp chimney sealant where the two surfaces met and it's done good with up to 1/4" gaps in a couple spots.
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Old 12-29-2018, 01:36 PM
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Make a template, plasma it. If you a tight fit plasma a hair undersize and
grind to fit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walker View Post
...Go slow, use lube.
That is what she said... Then you woke up... LOL.
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  #10  
Old 12-30-2018, 02:58 PM
BukitCase BukitCase is offline
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Appreciate all the info/suggestions, etc; good to know options. Thinking it'll depend on what happens WHEN; if I just do the holes for LB's/drains, the hole saw would be simplest (especially since those holes will all be low enough I can lean into it easier than if I was on a ladder

OTOH, if this phase ends up happening at/near the time I install the ventilation, I will DEFINITELY be using the plaz for THOSE holes (16" shutter fan, 24" motorized louver per container) so it might be just as easy to do a template for the LB's and use plasma there too.

Already have the templates done for the vent kits; they're undersized just enough so the torch can ride against the template and my (still to be finished) 3/16"x6" FB bezels (with "critter bars" outside, bug screens inside those, and rain hoods above) will fit snug into the holes.

Template pic - the rectangular piece on top is a "pusher" plate, template will get pushed up against the wall by a "cargo bar", spaced out from opposite wall with a shop cabinet carcass (bars aren't long enough) - the "spider legs" (gray plywood pieces) are so the template does NOT fall thru the wall to the ground when the cut-out piece does. Don't wanna make 3 MORE pairs of those, they weren't that easy.

ATM I still have more time than money, so the planned roof(s) ain't happenin' for at least a couple more years - in my area this means ventilation in summer, small dehumidifier in winter, or might as well just leave stuff outside - it doesn't get that cold here, so worst case I might need insulated covies in winter. In summer I've measured up to 150 degrees F inside surfaces with the IR gun, and seen some sign of condensation in colder temps.

The 20 footer I built the 24x24 roof over NEVER sees the sun, and inside temp = outside temp year round, and since my weld shop plan has moved to one of the 40' Hi-Cubes (with full length gantry crane) I won't bother venting the little one.

Anyway, thanks again for all the input... Steve
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