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  #11  
Old 12-14-2017, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bigb View Post
I bought a Rage with a carbide blade, it does the job OK and was not to much money, under $100. You can get a Diablo Steel Demon 7.25" blade for $40 that fits a circular saw but it will not last very long at the speed a circ saw spins. I cut 1/4" with one but probably only got about 12-15 feet worth before it was dull. The slower cutting saws allow the blade to last longer.
I have a worm drive wood saw that is much slower than a conventional skill saw. Was wondering why I could not use that with a steel cutting saw blade that is used in the cold cut saws?????
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2017, 10:14 PM
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I would use a zip wheel in an angle grinder, but that is about all I have available to me most days
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  #13  
Old 12-14-2017, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by platypus20 View Post
...plasma cutter, find someone with one, or buy one..............
Or, if you want to go retro use an oxy-acetylene torch--before the advent of plasma machines, zip discs and metal saws a "hot wrench" was all us "old-timers" had to work with. A properly set up torch will cut 1/4" steel plate just fine and leave an edge just as good as you can get with any plasma.

In our shop if we need to have plate cut I usually just order the material and have it shipped to a place near us that does custom shearing and forming. When I get there they have my material cut and sitting on a pallet...
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2017, 06:17 AM
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I've seen dozens of videos of folk using next to nothing to in the way of tools and do some amazing work with more patience than specific tooling that most of us take for granted.

Making a 400 pound anvil with a side grinder, hacksaws and files and simple welding machine is just insane to some, remarkable to others.

Just choose a tool and cutter you can live to tell the story after the job is done.

I'd probably choose a side grinder of worth, cutoff wheels of quality, safety PPE and get after it. Using something like a skill saw even if it's rated for steel would not be my choice. My 2cents.

FWIW, I make Boo rods mostly by hand with hand tools non motorized. My hand made rods take anywhere from 150 to 200 hours from start to finish. If I was fancy and motorized with the spiffy shapers etc I could cut that down by 75%. But I won't and have no need to do so.
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2017, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by LW Hiway View Post
I've seen dozens of videos of folk using next to nothing to in the way of tools and do some amazing work with more patience than specific tooling that most of us take for granted.

Making a 400 pound anvil with a side grinder, hacksaws and files and simple welding machine is just insane to some, remarkable to others.

Just choose a tool and cutter you can live to tell the story after the job is done.

I'd probably choose a side grinder of worth, cutoff wheels of quality, safety PPE and get after it. Using something like a skill saw even if it's rated for steel would not be my choice. My 2cents.

FWIW, I make Boo rods mostly by hand with hand tools non motorized. My hand made rods take anywhere from 150 to 200 hours from start to finish. If I was fancy and motorized with the spiffy shapers etc I could cut that down by 75%. But I won't and have no need to do so.

Whats a boo rod?
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  #16  
Old 12-15-2017, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
I have a worm drive wood saw that is much slower than a conventional skill saw. Was wondering why I could not use that with a steel cutting saw blade that is used in the cold cut saws?????
I'd say it is worth a try, and a full report back to the forum.
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  #17  
Old 12-15-2017, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by alchemist View Post
Whats a boo rod?
Bamboo rod...
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Measure twice and cut once...or...wait, was that the other way around?
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2017, 01:06 PM
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I'd say it is worth a try, and a full report back to the forum.
Yeah, the worst it's going to cost you is one blade and a (possible) burnt out motor. Check the rpm of your saw and compare it to the recommended rpm for the Metal Devil steel blades.

We had one of the metal cutting circular saws for a while and I never thought much of it. We bought it specifically to cut some window openings in a container that someone had converted to a shop. Even on the (relatively) thin steel of a container wall the blades failed pretty quickly--on thicker stuff I can't see a blade lasting very long. The only reason I went with the saw over a torch was that the container was already in use and I didn't want hot sparks flying everywhere. Had the container been empty I'm sure I would have used a plasma torch.

Funny thing about that job is that we never got paid for it and about two weeks after the job was done someone stole the saw--bad karma all around...
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  #19  
Old 12-15-2017, 01:14 PM
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That depends on your point of view the guy with the can got a free window openings and some lucky thief got a slow cutting Skilsaw

You on the other hand should have spent that day train watching.
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  #20  
Old 12-15-2017, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
We had one of the metal cutting circular saws for a while and I never thought much of it. We bought it specifically to cut some window openings in a container that someone had converted to a shop. Even on the (relatively) thin steel of a container wall the blades failed pretty quickly--on thicker stuff I can't see a blade lasting very long.
I have a Milwaukee metal saw and routinely cut up to 1" plate, last week was 3/4 x 6", before I went to Mexico.
It cuts thick metal easily, but first the freebee blade you get with any saw is junk. I buy a 74 tooth Tenryu blade or 60? tooth Metal Devil, and the one they give you is 40 tooth. Second is (and you would think lathe operators know better, but noooo)I have seen people repeatedly try to pull the trigger after they are in contact with metal. Every single time you do this it costs a tooth. Start the saw turning before it contacts the work.I recently cut 160 lineal feet of seacan material for skirting around my shop. I used a abused blade and that finished it off, because thirdly, when using theses saws you need to support both sides equally and not let the waste side drop, or it will crush a carbide tooth, especially in thick metal.

I just find it easier to go out to my stockpile with the skilsaw and extension cord than to drag my cutting torch out there to cut off a 2 ft piece of channel or something.

The other thing worth mentioning is to allow the saw motor time to cool when cutting long cuts or in thick material. I have burned up my saw motor once already, from not paying attention and just wanted to get 'er done.
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