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  #61  
Old 08-08-2019, 12:21 AM
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MetalWolf MetalWolf is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BukitCase View Post
Just curious, never thought about this before - does using Loctite on a bolt change the required torque value from "dry" to "lubed" ?? ...Steve
I'm just speaking from my own thoughts here on this but I don't believe it does
I have never had an issue in using lock-tite use under torque specks being any different or change to the value of torque.

Some may argue that it does but I just don't believe so...

now as to the reply from the dodge rep who said the customer/mechanic just didn't do it right has no business telling anyone they didn't know what they were doing or they didn't follow proper procedure...

I'll bet my left Nutt that fool sits in an office and reads manual specks and has never had his pee-pee wet, let alone, his hands on an engine or any other mechanical piece of equipment... the failure of the planum gasket is a known issue with those style of intakes...

now with that said I have seen new vehicles sold new never had a wrench
put to them in the mind of the buyer but to be cracked open with an intake plenum leak and find the plate has been bolted "no rivets" which only means it failed from factory right out the gate and then was repaired at the dealership... and then still using the paper gasket that will be guaranteed to fail in short amount of time. but I have yet to see one fail after it has been repaired using the ultra-black or ultra silver both are good quality sealers and gasket makers for automotive and farm equipment. but they are personal preference as there are other good products out there...

my self I have not come across but over the many years of turning wrenches I've seen good products that really do work and work very well just disappear off the market for some dumbass reason or another

Marine goop is one and the new kissing cousin to it sucks and does not or can not come close or even compare to the original...
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  #62  
Old 08-08-2019, 02:22 AM
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Another one was slick 50 .
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  #63  
Old 08-08-2019, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Rob65 View Post
Just a thought, is there any risk that since this thing has been running with some of the bolts missing and others loose iOS there any risk of anything having warped?

I’m sure it’s something you will have considered but it’s not been mentioned so I figured I would ask.

Sorry if this is a dumb thing to ask but I’m not familiar with the design of these specific engines so if warping is not likely please don’t be offended and ignore the above.

Rob
I did check it with a straight edge as I did the head and block, no issues.
Good question.
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  #64  
Old 08-08-2019, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by midmosandblasting View Post
Another one was slick 50 .
midmo, I don't know about slick 50 and the other products of similar types but my self, I have always bee afraid of using additives and such stuff like that.

Just seem's to me if one had to use such types of products as slick 50 or no smoke and the engine goo's it's time to repair or rebuild unless patching is ones only option...
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  #65  
Old 08-08-2019, 02:10 PM
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I used to use slick 50 in my old 1990 Chevy, that I bought when 2 years old with 36,000 miles. I replaced the transmission at 200,000 miles, and the motor went at about 275,000 Miles. It was pulling some weight at times too, so they were not all easy miles.
And I used to be pretty good on maintenance, but the later 150,000 miles, I probably averaged 15,000 miles on an oil change, unless you count the quart I would add every 2-3000. When I would see the oil pressure drop to 0-10, I would know it was time to add 3 quarts.



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  #66  
Old 08-09-2019, 11:51 AM
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Dropped of the crank, heads and valve seals to the guy rebuilding the heads
and grinding the crank, Jim Dutka.

Dropped off the block to Begler's to boil out the block.

Started cleaning up (de-varnishing) all the parts that are being reused.

Ordered everything today from RockAuto, except the rod and crank bearings
and the piston rings. Waiting for the crank to be ground first.

The ridge is barely perceptible, my opinion along with 3 other mechanics is
for a daily driver just hone the cylinders, no need to ream or bore. You can
still see a little cross hatching in the bores.

This rebuild is just taking everything back to stock to make it a reliable
daily driver.

The only additional items we are re-doing is the power steering pump. The
one line is welded/brazed in to the reservoir is badly rusted so I ordered a
new PS Pump with reservoir and the 3 PS lines with the engine out it is easy
to get at, so now is the time.
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  #67  
Old 08-09-2019, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
midmo, I don't know about slick 50 and the other products of similar types but my self, I have always bee afraid of using additives and such stuff like that.

Just seem's to me if one had to use such types of products as slick 50 or no smoke and the engine goo's it's time to repair or rebuild unless patching is ones only option...
Now I have to be careful as we sell a lot of product to the after market -
"performance boosting" additives.

But Wolfie, you are correct in your thinking. There is A LOT of R&D and
engineering that goes into today's modern automotive lubricants. Buy
a quality brand and run with it. Run the mfr's recommended viscosity
grade.

Detergent boosters, like SeaFoam, in the fuel to clean out injectors or
Lubricity boosters/anti-gels like PowerService products for diesel are
fine if you need them and as the weather dictates.
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  #68  
Old 08-11-2019, 02:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shade Tree Welder View Post
Now I have to be careful as we sell a lot of product to the after market -
"performance boosting" additives.

But Wolfie, you are correct in your thinking. There is A LOT of R&D and
engineering that goes into today's modern automotive lubricants. Buy
a quality brand and run with it. Run the mfr's recommended viscosity
grade.

Detergent boosters, like SeaFoam, in the fuel to clean out injectors or
Lubricity boosters/anti-gels like PowerService products for diesel are
fine if you need them and as the weather dictates.
My need for oil additives is whether the cam is roller or flat tappet. I have been using 1/2 bottle of STP with ZDDP (zinc) added to Mobile 1 in my Volkswagen buggy motor. Everything else gets Mobil I or Shell Rottella T6. I do use Power Service in the Ford 6.Slow when fueling.
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  #69  
Old 08-12-2019, 03:17 PM
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Parts... Lotsa parts and some paint today made it here today...
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Last edited by Shade Tree Welder; 08-12-2019 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Spelling Nazi's...
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  #70  
Old 08-12-2019, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by arizonian View Post
I have been using 1/2 bottle of STP with ZDDP...
Don't...
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