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  #11  
Old 11-03-2020, 03:41 AM
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GWIZ GWIZ is offline
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My air fryer is about 1300 watts.

looks like you have 4 heat settings, better than 6500 watts total.
figure it should recondition welding rods or grill hamburger patties fairly well grilled spam anyone?....
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  #12  
Old 11-03-2020, 05:52 AM
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Default Industrial EZ-Bake Oven! Weldotron Model #7112 220v/34A/7kW

Good score. Maybe a preheat oven for small welding parts.

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Last edited by toprecycler; 11-03-2020 at 03:11 PM.
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  #13  
Old 11-11-2020, 03:21 AM
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Question Q: so, separate 120v circuit for gearmotor and control?

UPDATE: as mentioned in my Dayton Motor thread, this oven reeks of mildew because the insulation got wet. So I filled a supermarket bag with insulation from it which helped with the smell a little.

As a same model number oven in MUCH nicer appearing condition went for $100 bid this week on debay, I'm ready to gut this thing and scrap the rest. I'll give it until the weekend to sell locally for $150 otherwise I'm examining how to make use of the gearmotor.

Out of curiosity, I cut off the brown electrical tape from the "pile o' poop" to expose what looks to be an acceptable repair so I just re-wrapped it. Why they tied it in a knot is beyond me... I didn't feel the need to dig any further...

Looking at the back of the control panel it is somewhat easy to see the different circuits for the fans, heating elements and gearmotor and control. In the lower right you can see a larger black, yellow and white wire (10ga?) coming from the main power switch/breaker which in turn is connected to the 240v power cord. Black and yellow are line in, the white goes to a ground post "hidden" under the bundle of blue wires in the pic. All the smaller white wires also go to the ground post. I removed the heater control from the control panel to get a better look at the circuits.

On top of the yellow and black on the bottom of the fuse bus are two white wires that go to the heating elements. The other ends of the heating element wires go to the heat control (not shown) as well as a thermocouple or two. The red and black wires on top of the element wires go to the heat control.

The top of the fuses have two black wires going to the 240v side of the 240v/120v transformer (shown in a post above). A red and white come from the 120v side of the transformer. You can see a bundle with two black, one red and one white wires from the transformer on the lower left.

The top of the fuse bus also feeds the fan motors which are on all the time. It looks like they may be wired for 240v--what do you think? That is the bundle of smaller black wires heading out lower right.

The bundle of blue wires comes from the gearmotor. There is a 4-prong connector for them on the back of the machine. The red 120v from the transformer goes to a 1A circuit breaker immediately to the left of the fuse bus (the blue spades) oddly marked "FUSE" on the front... Aside from that, it looks as if the rest of the wires to the rheostat (the red ones) and to what I'm assuming are rectifiers to the left of the circuit breaker with the blue wires (and a couple white to ground) are for the gearmotor circuit.

So QUESTION: Do you think if I disconnect the wire from the transformer to the 1A circuit breaker and install a 120 hot to it and the neutral to the ground lug, that the gearmotor will work?

I find it odd there is not a separate neutral for the 120v circuit but I suppose if it works...

PS: found some info on powder coating and it sounds like this will not get hot enough for long enough although the top half without the bottom could maybe be made into some type of oven sans conveyor...

PPS: seems that the oven can go up to 550^ according to the knob. Picture is from a debay unit. Also some info on cerakoting...
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Last edited by mccutter; 11-11-2020 at 02:20 PM.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2020, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mccutter View Post
So QUESTION: Do you think if I disconnect the wire from the transformer to the 1A circuit breaker and install a 120 hot to it and the neutral to the ground lug, that the gearmotor will work?
Everything runs till it quits.

The big powerstat you have a picture of is 120 VAC, This allows them to run the motor speed from 0 to full speed around line voltage out of the powerstat. This is in AC, this ac is fed to the 2 square boxes in the picture. Since you have 4 wires coming out of the motor, 2 should be armature, ( goes to the brushes ) (and 2 to the fields. ) The one square rectifier has a red white and 2 blue wires that are variable and these go to the armature to vary speed by changing the voltage going through the armature. This is because the powerstat is able to change the ac voltage going to the rectifiers that changes it to dc ( good enough) for the motor to run.

The other rectifier should run at full line voltage to the fields and not be varied.

If you want that motor to run at a single speed you can take the leads off the powerstat and plug them in to 120 and you might be ok. ( I do not have a wire schematic in front of me to see if they have any other magic in the field side of the motor)

As a note here, look to see if it says permanent magnet on the tag on the motor you have or has a connection diagram of A1, A2 and F1 and F2 and lets see what you got.

Scott
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  #15  
Old 11-12-2020, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
Everything runs till it quits.
Thank you Scott for the description of the electrical happenings. You've described it very well. As you mentioned, one of the rectifiers runs on line volts (bottom). Note the two wires crimped in the middle connector at the rheostat--one to the rectifier, one to the circuit breaker. One terminal of the rheostat does not have anything connected to it. Maybe terminal "4"? (see pics above...)

The gearmotor runs on 120v. Put terminals on a 18-2 cord I have a surplus of. Lights didn't dim, no sparks or smoke were noted and the conveyor worked as it should. I didn't run it that long but everything seemed fine. I have a 14-2 or 14-3 cord I could use for long-term testing.

I flipped the image so it was readable. I can see wiring in a 2-way switch to reverse direction easy enough.
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
TA 95 lunchbox w/tig
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...

Last edited by mccutter; 11-12-2020 at 01:11 AM.
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  #16  
Old 11-12-2020, 06:07 AM
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terry lingle terry lingle is offline
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That device pictured is not a rheostat it is a Variac. (Var(iable) AC Transformer'
It has 4 terminals Common out and two line inputs.
Connect the line to the lower line input and you get
0 to line + 19 % out so 0 to 120 VAC in and 0 to 140 ac out allowing compensation for loss in the device. The other input connection gives 0 to 120 in for 0 to almost 120 out.
Very useful on a repair bench as they allow powering up a suspected bad device slowly to prevent loss of the magic smoke.
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  #17  
Old 11-12-2020, 08:41 AM
Lew Hartswick Lew Hartswick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
That device pictured is not a rheostat it is a Variac. (Var(iable) AC Transformer'.
NO it's NOT. Variac is a Trade mark of General Radio. The thing is a "Powerstat" trademark of [that other Co. that just left my brain :-) ]
As can be plainly seen on the picture of it. :-)
...lew... retired Electronics engineer. :-)
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  #18  
Old 11-12-2020, 11:57 AM
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OK Lew I took the time to look at more pictures and you are correctit is not a GR variac it is a Better Staco powerstat
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  #19  
Old 11-12-2020, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry lingle View Post
That device pictured is not a rheostat it is a Variac.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lew Hartswick View Post
The thing is a "Powerstat" trademark of (that other Co. that just left my brain )
I agree and you both win but if it looks like a duck I'm going to call it a duck...

Only two wires going to the gearmotor (and a ground). You can see a couple unused in the box. I'll check continuity and see which are connected to what at the rectifiers but anyone care to venture a guess?

Unrelated to the oven, and since you guys like to name stuff, I call the little device a fidget widget. About 2" cubed. What would YOU call it? HINT: it was in a box of vacuum tubes...
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
TA 95 lunchbox w/tig
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...
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  #20  
Old 11-12-2020, 05:57 PM
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Looks like a variable capacitor, like what was used to tune radios for different frequencies.


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