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  #21  
Old 05-19-2018, 06:22 AM
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Probably already done, otherwise I would have come helped you. I know you got shit to do.

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  #22  
Old 05-19-2018, 08:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post
Called and priced a cutting edge. $91 out the door. Made the 14 mile trip to pick it up. Old edge was 5/8, new one is 3/4”. Gonna be a good weekend. Now if Ron would come visit with his fancy pulsed arc warp drive spray welding machine I’d be set!

Pardon the shit storm on the table. It’s my to do list.
I got 4 of them given to me free. You could of made a nice road trip here and loaded one up for the return trip.
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  #23  
Old 05-19-2018, 09:01 PM
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Farmersam has a real good point, an extra torch head with a scarf tip in it is a God send; sometimes and some places

My experience with a torch is pretty limeted, about what practice one gets by being a 20yr I.U.O.E. mechanic/weldor.
I spent another 18 years working at various weld shops, mainly structural steel but some orny stuff thrown in, meh...

Your SA200 will definitely run the 3/16 airarc rod. No doubt. I've got maybe a hundred hours behind one, likely twice that much, I dunno...same with a scarf tip, know to burn myself in any position. No brag, just my life...

I used to run my 20 gallon compressor at 180 psi, that may not be an option for you; I metered my airflow with the gun button, don't gotta be full blast at all times.

Do your first bites right in the middle, and only just a taste. That will give you clue at where your first fire will be. Most times you can kill them with your air, otherwise that
water sprayer that you did remember to bring will get it.

You should probably take the carbon rod out very first thing, sucks when you hit something you didn't want to.

When you go to cut seriously, small bites are ok. Even if it's a half inch long it gives you a start. Do longer when you get better. Keep a close watch on the mother material, it sucks to have to put weld in when you really didn't have to. With a 3/16 rod you should probably take about 3/16 inch deep bites, at the most.
You should probably leave an 1/8 or so from taking it all off, you can hammer it and see what comes loose, give you something to grind on too.

With a scarf tip you have to heat the whole dang area before it starts to cut, you'll go too deep and it'll blow back and you have to beat all the slag out before it'll cut again. If it's just a single stringer, or maybe 3, scarf tips work ok, you can get a good wide wash cut and get it all at once. It's awesome when you hit it once and it falls off.
Unless you got new tips take them off first. Don't hit them too hard, especially on the ends. They bust, and leave reminders buried in your body.


And, oh, while we're at it ---

"And don't speak so poorly of that machine (even in jest), it kills me"

Yeah, what he said^^^^....there are just some lines that shouldenoughta get crossed. That there's one of them....
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Last edited by TEK; 05-19-2018 at 09:30 PM.
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  #24  
Old 05-20-2018, 09:14 PM
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Note, these pictures of arc gouging are not mine, I am definitely not that good.at first I thought they were welds, but they are not. But shows what can be done in someone who has skilled hands in doing it. Just takes practice, lots of it for most people.
Pics taken from Instagram.

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  #25  
Old 05-20-2018, 09:32 PM
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Don't forget to use a needle gun on the air ark areas
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  #26  
Old 05-20-2018, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Don't forget to use a needle gun on the air ark areas
They work well for taking off the scale.
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  #27  
Old 05-24-2018, 08:24 AM
BIHAR BIHAR is offline
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good.
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  #28  
Old 05-25-2018, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
Note, these pictures of arc gouging are not mine
In the second picture I'm gonna say that the center gouge got too deep, you can see at the end, closest to us, where the carbon and shit blew back.

The gouge on the far left looks pretty good. ..
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