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  #21  
Old 03-07-2020, 09:27 PM
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Used o ring picks but the o rings are so hardened the pick will not grab the o ring. Could only pick tiny pieces out. Took for ever to get one out.
Let Scott do it, now he will understand the need to redo them all

A little bit of torch flame may help, they are carbon for the most part.
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  #22  
Old 03-09-2020, 07:50 PM
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Found out the seals are not o rings but are rubber sleeves. Harder than hell. the fuel ines are 1/4" steel tubing that are flared at the top. The nut is the standard nut for compression fittings. It squeezes the rubber grommet tight around the 1/4" steel tubing. Sleeves are $.32 each, and ordered. Scott's hands cramped up pretty good yesterday just getting one of the grommets out in little pieces. Going to try soaking them in hot water to see if it will soften them some.

Welded on 3 chain hooks on his loader bucket today. Replaced the rubber bushing on his seat shock absorber today. Took all 4 of our hands to get it installed. Seat now moves smoothly and no squeaks.

Got one side of the front radiator cover locks that were broken. Other half tomorrow.

Installed one of the brake drums, axle hub and axle shaft today. Waiting for the other brake drum, which is supposed to be here tomorrow. Then to bleed the brakes and fill the rear end with oil.
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  #23  
Old 03-09-2020, 08:45 PM
slip knot slip knot is offline
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bleed the brakes? does a cabbed 190 have hydraulic brakes? mine is open station and its manual brakes.

From what I've read they never had great brakes but mine seem ok, for flat coastal prairies anyway.
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  #24  
Old 03-10-2020, 12:36 PM
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bleed the brakes? does a cabbed 190 have hydraulic brakes? mine is open station and its manual brakes.

From what I've read they never had great brakes but mine seem ok, for flat coastal prairies anyway.
Not sure if manual or hydraulic. They seem to be OK brakes.
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Old 03-11-2020, 10:23 AM
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Scott's hands cramped up pretty good yesterday just getting one of the grommets out in little pieces. Going to try soaking them in hot water to see if it will soften them some.
I've been thinking about this, and what I would do. If I was doing this in my shop, I would without thinking, walk over to the wire wheel and polish up the end of the pipe which would remove al that carbonized rubber in a minute. Then blow the pipe clean with air and put the new condom on.
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Last edited by Ironman; 03-11-2020 at 10:32 AM.
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  #26  
Old 03-11-2020, 04:46 PM
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I've been thinking about this, and what I would do. If I was doing this in my shop, I would without thinking, walk over to the wire wheel and polish up the end of the pipe which would remove al that carbonized rubber in a minute. Then blow the pipe clean with air and put the new condom on.
That would work great except the rubber seal is stuck in the brass nut.
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  #27  
Old 03-11-2020, 06:31 PM
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That would work great except the rubber seal is stuck in the brass nut.
Ok, those things. I thought you said a sleeve. Case 850B engines had that same thing. Thankfully not in use any more.

Well a dull red heat will cure that rubber.
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  #28  
Old 03-11-2020, 08:26 PM
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Ok, those things. I thought you said a sleeve. Case 850B engines had that same thing. Thankfully not in use any more.

Well a dull red heat will cure that rubber.
The sleeve is rubber. Gonna try boiling water and see what happens. I will take a pic tomorrow.
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  #29  
Old 03-11-2020, 08:41 PM
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If that doesn’t work find you an old toaster oven and put them in there turn up to max outside till it finished dripping and keep the good parts and pitch the unwanted parts.

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  #30  
Old 03-12-2020, 10:47 AM
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If that doesn’t work find you an old toaster oven and put them in there turn up to max outside till it finished dripping and keep the good parts and pitch the unwanted parts.

Scott


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The return fuel line assy is 24" plus in length. Never saw a toaster oven that big. Thanks for the thought though.
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