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  #21  
Old 10-16-2019, 03:53 PM
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I have hose crimping tools. I noticed that Milton did not have any V style fittings with hose barbs. I looked at the CEJN fittings that had hose barbs. I ordered some of the 320 series that is the European high flow standard ( Milton V series). The fittings were compact and looked nicely made. The sleeve pushes back and the snaps into place when you push in a plug. When you pull back on the sleeve, the plug pops out to a second position to drain the air. when you push the sleeve forward the plug can then be removed. Very nice.

However:

When they say the barb is 10mm- 3/8, it is a full 10mm. 3/8 inch hose is usually listed as 9.5mm. While I made up hoses with the right size ferrules and regular 3/8 barbs, I could not do the same with the 10mm barbs. I went up a size on the ferrules and was able force in a couple with major effort. Another i could not for the life of me get the barb in. I also had to ream out the hole in the end of the ferrule.

Something to be aware of!

Parker Hannifin makes the RF series to the European high flow specs. I'll have to pay a visit to my industrial supplier.
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2019, 08:41 AM
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Something you should be aware of if you are considering Milton V fittings.
They are made in Taiwan. Usually products made in Taiwan are very well made, as opposed to products made in mainland China. However, the pipe threads on the Milton fittings are out of spec. They will screw all the way in without tightening. They only snug up when they bottom out. If you back them out a fraction, they will rattle in the fitting. I used some of them because I had work to do. I put extra teflon tape on them and screwed them down all the way. Some of them still leak air. I sent two emails to Milton informing them of this and heard nothing. I asked them to replace the full box of fittings that I had. I heard nothing. I am replacing the Milton V fittings with Parker and CEJN fittings.
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2019, 11:27 AM
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Personally I would not allow Milton V type fitting in the shop, everyone I ever had leaked out the fitting end, not at the start, but soon after. Numerous web postings citing similar problems. I went with the Amflo T style, the flow numbers were very close, are much better made and 2-3 years into it, not a single leaker.
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2019, 12:30 PM
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So far the ones I'm actually using are working OK. Time will tell. I have Parker and CEJN replacements ready to go if they fail. I'm replacing the one that did not thread in properly.

I heard so much about the qualities of polyurethane hose that I bought a Milton "polyurethane" hose. That is how they list it ( with the quotation marks). I thought it was terrible. I got a Kuriyama polyurethane hose and it was a world of difference. Beautiful and tough hose.

I'm less than impressed with Milton.
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2019, 01:34 PM
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I have had no problems with Milton M but I found it best to use a steel rather than brass male end. For impact or chisel use the steel balls in a Milton chuck will create divots under a vibrating load in a brass one.

Also because I run 165psi air, I have had a problem of the chuck blowing off the hose, usually when I am gone, and when I start the compressor I have to hunt the shop for the chuck and barb.
I began to use a Pex clamp ring (I have the pex tool) on my hoses.
Now not only does the hose stay on the barb, but the damn hose clamp does not hook on everything when it's reeling in on the hose reel. It's a clean smooth setup.

The non tapered pipe thread is a metric/imperial measure quandary.
No one ever invented a metric pipe thread, but they HAD to be different, so they used inch thread without the taper and called it Japanese straight pipe, usually has a sealing washer on a metric car for instance. I find lots of black iron pipe fittings coming from Thailand without a taper thread.
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Last edited by Ironman; 11-07-2019 at 01:41 PM.
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  #26  
Old 11-07-2019, 02:43 PM
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The pipe threads on the Milton fittings are tapered, you can see it. The problem is that they are undersized so much that you cannot screw them down to an interference fit. They bottom out before they tighten on the threads. I suppose you could put an o-ring on the top of the threads to attempt to seal them, but that is not how they are supposed to work.
After I crimp on a ferrule I put on a shrink wrap collar over the ferrule and a couple of inches down the hose. This helps to prevent snagging and works as a bend guard. On some I put a 3 inch, 2 1/2 inch, and a 2 inch shrink wrap collar as a bend guard.
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