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  #21  
Old 10-11-2018, 05:23 PM
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Moving right along. The LWS was no help. a guy came in last week and bought ALL the 625 consumables. Yea, right. He had a couple of standoffs and some other stuff I didn't recognize. (might have been for the 375 X IDK)

I guess I need to go whoring around on flea bay or Amazonk and find a new setup, from the torch out to the standoff. How much is a good price to pay? fair, but not getting ripped off. I think one set for now, I'll shop quantity when I know this little girl works.

Also, there is no "filter" , There is a water trap mounted on the back wall, inside the case, It plumbs from the air inlet fitting, to the regulator, through the air solenoid and on to the torch. (what I initially thought to be a "filter" is , upon examination with better light, A copper wound coil. I'm going back to the PDF to see if I can find a separate filter.

As they said before, Rollin' Rollin' Rollin...

RED
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  #22  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:41 PM
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Paul, this may or not be applicable, or it might be critical, especially since you're getting the "cup" warning.

My torch looks like the one in McCutter's picture & the one useful thing I picked up from the dealer who sold it to me had to do with installing the parts and tightening down the "retainer cup" to hold it all together:

He told me to hold it up near my ear as I snugged it up and to listen for a faint "click" and stop turning as soon as I heard it. If you don't hear it, loosen the cup and start over. If it fails to click on the second attempt, take the parts out, check the diagram and start over.

I have found that he was absolutely correct. It will work only if I hear that click. It will fail if I tighten it beyond that point.
It will usually give me at least a pilot arc even if the electrode is slightly burned though it may not cut worth a damn or maintain an arc but you should be able to get a pilot arc if the parts are in the right order and the cup "clicks".
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  #23  
Old 10-11-2018, 06:52 PM
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Thanks Rod, I'll try that first thing in the morning.

RED
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A 160 MPH drive, down a 2 lane blacktop, all by yourself, is NOT anti-social behaviour... I drag race because football, baseball, and golf only need ONE ball. Paul.


What I really need to know is, WHEN DOES THE SHOOTING START?
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  #24  
Old 10-11-2018, 09:35 PM
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I probably have some good "working" consumables I can throw in an envelope for you, Paul. You'd probably have them Monday. I'd have to look but I'm certain I have some "take-offs" that should work. What exactly do you need?
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  #25  
Old 10-12-2018, 12:58 AM
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Thanks for the kind and generous offer. What I have in mind is to start from the bare torch and change out all the consumables, one at a time, until it works or the response changes.

I'll have to check which electrode will pass air and use that one to start.
The guy at the LWS said that sometimes the ceramic looking tube is bad, but doesn't show it.

I'll try again tomorrow, using Cutter's info and more frustration...

If you could send me one of each component (except the drag tip guard / standoff, it looks pristine) I'll finish using up what works and replace them with new, when I finally get my hands on some.

Another thing I forgot to add in my last post, (# 21) the airflow will only start once, when I first pull the trigger, than I have to cycle the on/off switch before it will start again. Don't have any idea why or if it matters, just putting forth as much as I know...


RED
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A 160 MPH drive, down a 2 lane blacktop, all by yourself, is NOT anti-social behaviour... I drag race because football, baseball, and golf only need ONE ball. Paul.


What I really need to know is, WHEN DOES THE SHOOTING START?

Last edited by RED caddy; 10-12-2018 at 01:04 AM.
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  #26  
Old 10-12-2018, 02:28 AM
Rob65 Rob65 is offline
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Red,

Using known good ‘take out’ parts is a wise idea. I bought some torch consumables from eBay and the machine would not work with them. It turned out that the dimensions of the retaining ring were wrong and the safety lock out system that Cutter mentioned was not being activated.

I would never have been able to diagnose the problem if I had not got some old known good parts to hand.

I have been told that if you take the torch to bits, put you fingers inside and pull the trigger it hurts, and I mean really really hurts. I have never been brave enough to check this for myself. Could you let me know if this is true

Rob


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  #27  
Old 10-12-2018, 05:33 AM
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On my plasma cutter (hypertherm 1000) the air will start along with the pilot arc when you pull the trigger. If you take the tip off to change the consumable then I have to turn the machine off to reset internal safety lockout. As cutter and others have mentioned, there is a switch in the torch head that must be engaged right when the consumable tips are installed.

Does the torch cord look ok? Maybe something was dropped on the cord and one of the internal wires was cut. One time I was moving tig welder at work and a heavy block of steel fell off and landed corner first on the tig torch lead and effectively cut internal lead. Also have done that with couple mig whips too over the years.

Might have to try a different torch cable if all else fails, just to pinpoint the problem. Hopefully it is not in the power source box.


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  #28  
Old 10-12-2018, 09:19 AM
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I remembered something about this from years ago, It is dim so have a look at yours.

On the base of the gray colored shield there may be a conductive ring. If so check to see if it is cracked, the one I am remembering has 2 small pins that stick out and that ring connects those two pins together to make the torch work. If there is a crack in that conductive ring the cutter will act like the torch is not together. A drop on the floor or rough handling will break that conductive ring even though all the parts are in correctly.

Scott
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  #29  
Old 10-12-2018, 10:52 AM
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I'm PMing you, Paul... I think I have everything you need but I'll install and test, first.

UPDATE: I have all the parts except for the swirl ring which doesn't really "wear" per se, BUT could have been stepped on or whatever. It is more of an insulator, than anything.

Tested the parts in my torch and as Doug from FinF would say: "Eat wheel cut!" This was just a quickie on 3/16" Al and Fe. If anything, my air pressure was set too low...
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__________________

TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit
MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A
MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2
Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma
Hobart 250ci plasma
Victor O/A (always ready, but bored)
Lincoln Patriot autodark (freebie)
45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs...

Last edited by mccutter; 10-12-2018 at 11:36 AM.
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  #30  
Old 10-16-2018, 07:30 AM
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Thanks Bob, The eagle landed late yesterday. I've seen space shuttle parts not packed that well, lol

2 job's to finish this morning, then all hands on deck for big test flog.

Gotta happen today 'cause Thurs. morning, underway for homecoming at VMI. #1 Grand boy is second year there now. Back Monday.

On the move, again.

RED
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A 160 MPH drive, down a 2 lane blacktop, all by yourself, is NOT anti-social behaviour... I drag race because football, baseball, and golf only need ONE ball. Paul.


What I really need to know is, WHEN DOES THE SHOOTING START?
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