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  #11  
Old 01-19-2013, 08:13 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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The best thing you could do is find as much seat time as possible.. I'd ask the instructor if you could come by and burn rod as long as it doesn't interfer with any other classes he is teaching.

If he agrees. Great.. Once he see's you are really giving it a go he may even offer you some insights he doesn't share with the rest of the class..


On that note.. It's a good time to try as many welding machines as possible this will give you experience on many different machines and you will find ones that work better than others for you..

This way when you get out of School you will also have some idea of what you want to buy.

I prefer Blue for the most part. Though the Hobart top line MIG is really easy to use..

The Lincolns new machine (1 year ago ) XT256 I believe)) I found to not like low voltages nor lower wire feeds and this made welding more difficult when trying to use the wrong size wire.. (to large for the material) vertical up.

The Miller and the Hobart had the largest adjustment for the given wire size..

Again. It could just be the user..


Now I have no regrets buying the Esseti Yeti. It's all ready paid it's self off.

I find that Yeti with just about any size wire can be dialed way down with both Voltage and amperage and will still sizzle the wire off..

I have never had to turn the voltage knob more than 2.5 turns for 0.45 wire spray arc with 75/25 or 100%Argon and the dial has 10 turns.. Usually I have no reason to turn the dial more than 1 time even with 0.045 wire unless I'm welding something cold (below 60F).

As a show and tell. I had some 0.045 wire in Yeti.. has some 1/2 plate and turned the dial up to 6 and proceeded to blow holes right through the 1/2 plate like it was a bullet going thru butter...

I failed to mention that Yeti is a 500amp machine. 10 turns comes out to 50amps per full revolution.. it's verneer micro grads are 0.5amps..
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  #12  
Old 01-20-2013, 08:51 PM
o7oBaseMetal o7oBaseMetal is offline
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My advice is to find a job welding stuff. Also, don't make YouTube videos to "teach" other people how to weld until you know what you are doing well enough to teach others.
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  #13  
Old 01-20-2013, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
The best thing you could do is find as much seat time as possible.. I'd ask the instructor if you could come by and burn rod as long as it doesn't interfer with any other classes he is teaching.

If he agrees. Great.. Once he see's you are really giving it a go he may even offer you some insights he doesn't share with the rest of the class..


On that note.. It's a good time to try as many welding machines as possible this will give you experience on many different machines and you will find ones that work better than others for you..
I sure agree, and I am glad you are starting with stick. It is the basis for everything.
Learn to relax and go slow. With that will come steady. And a slow, consistently steady hand will make a good bead.
Learn how to set a machine. You will use many machines over your life, and like or dislike them, you will have to learn to get along.
So you need to know about setting arc characteristics and their effects on your bead.
Learn about the inductance setting, and hotstart...if it has one. When you understand how the amperage setting with the other settings affects your arc, and bead quality, then your work will start to impress people. And you'll like it.
I'm still discovering stuff.
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  #14  
Old 01-20-2013, 11:28 PM
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.... Does anyone have any helpful tips to get me thru?
Metal can be HOT even if it doesn't look hot!!!
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  #15  
Old 01-21-2013, 06:44 AM
shopsmith shopsmith is offline
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I was in this same boat a couple years ago. Some would say I'm still in that boat cuz depending on the day my welding is either magnificent (to me) or deplorable (to others). Still, you have got to stay with it and practice on anything. Run a bead, try different machines etc. There is really no other way to get good. Oxy-Acetylene is also a great skill to get right so don't forget about it. I suck at it but still, I realize it's versatility.
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  #16  
Old 01-21-2013, 12:53 PM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shopsmith View Post
I was in this same boat a couple years ago. Some would say I'm still in that boat cuz depending on the day my welding is either magnificent (to me) or deplorable (to others).
I resemble that comment.
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If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #17  
Old 02-02-2013, 04:33 PM
tansit tansit is offline
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Stay hydrated during long burn sessions. The arc is just for show, look at the metal. Learn to use fixed shade hoods, weld one handed when necessary, and put yourself in uncomfortable positions. TIG regularly needs to be left handed in my experience. Always check your equipment before you weld, even if you just turned around .
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  #18  
Old 02-02-2013, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tansit View Post
Stay hydrated during long burn sessions. The arc is just for show, look at the metal. Learn to use fixed shade hoods, weld one handed when necessary, and put yourself in uncomfortable positions. TIG regularly needs to be left handed in my experience. Always check your equipment before you weld, even if you just turned around .
My oldest daughter used to come home in a rage when she was taking welding in high school. As she was the only female student, she was always getting targeted for something. Her biggest peeve was having some idiot buggering around with the settings on her welder when she wasn't watching, and messing up her welds.
Try something like that with a male welding student, and the fertilizer would soon hit the windmill.
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  #19  
Old 02-02-2013, 05:25 PM
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Hopefully Tan will relate some of the pranks pulled, both at school and when he was welding at Alstom.

One thing he did for fellow students was watch the voltage meter on the welder. He could give some feedback to another student as to arc length. Pretty neat stuff.
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  #20  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:12 PM
tansit tansit is offline
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TIG volt meters make great altimeters. During a qualification at one job I was recorded at 12.0 to 12.2 volts with an average of 12.1 over 10 hours. I want to say around 7 or 8 volts is around the time tungstens get trashed. Some guys in class had a hard time with depth perception on aluminum once it glosses over. Voltages slowly start to drop as the torch gets closer and closer to plunging in the puddle. Fun to watch as you shout "PULL UP!"

Some of the OJT pranks used on me with a Maxstar 200 water cooled TIG rig included: all power off to both the machine and separate cooler, manifold argon off, flowmeter off, purge system wye valve and bias controls off.

Some pranks used in retaliation were usually max pulser frequency with minimum foreground amps and a low arc start set in the boot menu plus 4T fuzzy logic trigger through a sequencer. Amperage set point appears to be 65 amps to the casual eye but you'd be lucky to get 3 amps worth of heat out. I never do pranks that are dangerous or damage the product/equipment.

I've heard about people having their tungsten replaced by Hastelloy filler material which has the same matte grey look as tungsten but melts right away. Tip properly ground to maintain appearances of course.

I've also had filler snatched right out of my hand because I use a cheater feeder with .045 TIG wire. I had just dipped and retracted only to discover that my filler had magically disappeared mid-weld. Recomposing myself I took my time to prevent crater cracking and ramped down like normal.
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