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Old 03-01-2009, 02:20 PM
Jerry Snow Jerry Snow is offline
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Default Oxy/Acy Welding Cast

I'm sure someone in this forum has used one of the low heat rods advertised for welding cast. One of the names is Castaloy and another is Muggy Weld. I would appreciate any and all opinions regarding your experience with these rods. Do they work as advertised and does the weld hold? Would like to take advantage of the low heat if this is the real stuff. Have the potential oportunity to repair several cast items for which low heat would be a big plus. Also, trying to repair a crack in a Dutch Oven and can't get brass to stick. Have preheated and made every effort to clean any absorbed grease from the crack. Brass just won't flow in the crack. Thanks for your replies.

J.Snow
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:27 PM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Jerry, use the search feature for your initial questions. It's your friend.

Yes, these rods will work in some conditions. Your problem will be to clean a porous material that has had oils and greases on it it's whole life.

I'll be back.....
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:50 PM
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LW Hiway LW Hiway is offline
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Jerry, like I mentioned earlier, you're likely to have the biggest problem of cleaning the cracked areas to render the oils and such that will continue to cook/leach out as it's heated.

One thing I have had success with in the past of repairing large boiling/butcher black pots of 20 and better gallons is to first drill a hole at the end of the crack of say a #30 or at least #40 drill bit size.

You should then lightly/softly grind a vee into and along the center of the crack on either side. Close to meeting the vee's on either side but not quite.

Set the whole thing inside a forge or build a fire and bring the whole pot to a dull cherry color red. Pull to the side, brush the prep'd area of the crack, flux as needed and weld in your repair beads.

You will need to lightly peen along and on the weld repair bead to relieve stress's set in by the solid bead weld. A few minutes of peening would do fine.

The biggest problem now will be to keep the pot from cooling down too fast. If you were to be able to place the pot in a large wash tub of very dry play sand and then pour to cover the pot with more of the dry sand and let it cool completely.

The temp I shoot for on welding cracks on pots such as this is between 800 and 1000 deg f. I've got things done without having to move the pot from the fire/heat, doing the repair almost in/at the fire. But, you have to be safety minded.

The stop drilling of the crack, vee'ing of the crack and repetitious cleaning of the pot, placing the pot in a high heat saturation to equalize stresses on it, followed by the weld repair and peening and then a very slow cooling, all work to keep the bead/pot areas from re-cracking.

I've not used the new fangled high-tech $30 some odd dollar wonder rods, but I have had all the success's in the world with the ancient high nickle stick and gas type rod.

You mileage may vary.

I would suggest that you also do a search here using the terms "repairing cast iron" or "welding cast iron". These will give you more comfort in the repair.

It ain't rocket science, but then, most of them can't weld.
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God, if you would grant me one request through Prayer, please help me be the Man my Dog thinks I am. Please.

Quoting "The Hunt". "A man will walk into hell with both eyes and arms wide open. His dog will know better."

I never thought I'd live long enough to become a grumpy old bastard. Here I am, killing it!

Last edited by LW Hiway; 03-01-2009 at 05:29 PM.
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