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  #11  
Old 08-15-2006, 07:10 PM
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[QUOTE=moe1942]Easy outs should be out lawed. Mine were banned years ago.
I haven't used a drill or easy outs in years I use the ole washer and nut trick and have had sucess with the pipe welded to the stud trick.
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2006, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMTatham
Good thread..........................wondering if anyone else uses Kroil penetrating oil..............sold by Kano Labs? I have used it and other Kano products for about five years and find them superior to most anything else on the market.

Yup used Kano products quite often. Great stuff. PB BLAster also has a great following. Got to watch the aerospace materials though like Ti cause Kroil is a corrosive to it.


Al
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2006, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caliber
Jeff,
What brand of die grinder is that? Where did you get it?
-Rich
Got it off the Snap on truck. it turns faster than a regular die grinder so the 1/8 burrs last longer.

welding on these studs very seldom works due to the angle and the fact that they are brittle. this is the best I have found for 3412 studs If you fill it wth PB blaster, you can almost always turn them out with a screwdriver.
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2006, 11:05 PM
okiewelder okiewelder is offline
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Jeff, I dont have any more advice about the studs but, I have spent many a night operating a "C". I used to be in the IUOE and worked at a rock quarry and when they had a operator call in I would get pulled out of the welding shop to go and feed the rock into the feeder.
I am glad that I dont do that anymore. Good luck on the broken bolts,
Steven
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  #15  
Old 08-16-2006, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMTatham
Good thread..........................wondering if anyone else uses Kroil penetrating oil..............sold by Kano Labs? I have used it and other Kano products for about five years and find them superior to most anything else on the market.

Yeah, I like it. It's just getting kinda hard to find. We used to be able to get it in the can. All we can find around here now is the arosol.

Dt
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  #16  
Old 08-16-2006, 07:03 PM
stock z/28 stock z/28 is offline
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Hi guys.

I get a lot of broken studs and bolts brought in to my shop to remove or repair. I use all the methods you are all ready discussing. I have also tried using the penetrating oil, but I try and tap the hole with a small tap and then thread a bolt into it to force the oil into the threads.

I have also found it useful to drill a hole in the broken part then heat the broken piece until its a cherry red and apply a candle (I do this about every day on automotive pipe plugs) and then let it cool. This "may" cause the the broken piece to shrink and it can sometimes be taken out with your fingers.

That's the same way I remove valve seats. I just barely run a small tig bead around the id of the valve seat, let it cool and they fall out. I do the same thing on some bearing races that are pressed in.

I generally buy about all of the surplus drill bushings I run across, They are


extremely handy to have around. Another thing I buy is ball and roller bearings as well. I tig weld bearings to to various "devices" a lot to use as drill bushings. I have several different crankshaft pulleys and harmonic balancers around here that I have made to center drills when people break crankshaft bolts off, it works great to center the drill and/or tap. I have even used this method with carbide end mills to "remove" broken taps and easy outs.

On a side note, I always try and hang a rag someway, that covers the work on about any of these operations any more. I have a lot of "shrapnel" in various parts of my body (including surgery on my knee) caused by breaking drills-taps - end mills- even bearing races. The rag has dampened these "chips" and saved me several times.


Jeff
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2006, 09:51 PM
calweld calweld is offline
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. . . and then there was the brilliant mechanic at one of the local trucking firms that decided to start using stainless steel studs on his exhaust manifolds Ended up having to use carbide concrete drills to drill them out, they work good on regular studs also. Have to try that die grinder idea out next time.
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  #18  
Old 08-16-2006, 11:04 PM
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Messer MG600 is the only rod I've ever used that consistently removes bolts, studs, taps, etc. Even if they're broken way down in the hole, MG600 will get them out.

Quote:
welding on these studs very seldom works due to the angle
That angle can't be as bad as welding out broken exhaust manifold bolts from underneath the car/truck I don't do that often, and normally charge double for removal - that covers the burns & supplies used. But it really isn't that hard, no more difficult than any other overhead SMAW weld.
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  #19  
Old 08-18-2006, 01:01 PM
vince-uk vince-uk is offline
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Anyone ever tried drills that cut counter clockwise??
Gradually drill bigger holes until the broken piece just comes out as you drill.

Well that's the theory
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  #20  
Old 08-18-2006, 03:40 PM
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lots of year in tooling area caused many a trial .Easy out a joke usually just good to be brought to you after the mechanic broke it off.The thing we always tried 1st was a center punch to the center to jar threads then take a air etcher and chase the broken piece out.Probably got 70% that way other wise mill here we come.Very last attempt was EDM .
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