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Old 11-12-2018, 04:20 PM
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Default Broken Bolt Welding Rod

What's the name of the high$$ welding rod used to remove broken bolts?

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Old 11-12-2018, 04:37 PM
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Was it this one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by precisionworks View Post
Messer MG600 is the only rod I've ever used that consistently removes bolts, studs, taps, etc. Even if they're broken way down in the hole, MG600 will get them out.

That angle can't be as bad as welding out broken exhaust manifold bolts from underneath the car/truck I don't do that often, and normally charge double for removal - that covers the burns & supplies used. But it really isn't that hard, no more difficult than any other overhead SMAW weld.
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Old 11-12-2018, 07:37 PM
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Here you go https://shop.rhdaveywelding.co.uk/Sy...Tractalloy.PDF
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Old 11-12-2018, 09:08 PM
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I’ve always used the MG 600
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Old 11-13-2018, 04:58 AM
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Are yall talking burning out the bolt with the rod ?

with cast manifolds and stubborn broken head bolts in cast heads I've always used a torch and blown em out with out damage to the threads.... the chase the threads with a tap easy peasy…..learned that back in high school....
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Old 11-13-2018, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetalWolf View Post
Are yall talking burning out the bolt with the rod ?



with cast manifolds and stubborn broken head bolts in cast heads I've always used a torch and blown em out with out damage to the threads.... the chase the threads with a tap easy peasy…..learned that back in high school....


No, I think they are talking about using a special rod that can build up a broken off bolt enough to either weld a nut on or something to get a pair of vice grips on to turn out. The rod they are talking about can be pushed down on top of the bolt even if it is broke and inch or two below the surface of the part. It has a hard flux that protects the threads from the weld filler, and is super strong.

I usually just tig weld up a tit to be able to get a pair of vice grips on it. Just did this Friday on an aluminum hydraulic motor part. A 10/32 screw broke off flush with the casting and it took about five times of welding a tit on, but it finally came out. I thought the threads were toast, but was able to just put in a replacement screw. Boss was happy. I was working the screw back in forth while watching the lathe make chips on another job.

A lot of times, the heat of welding helps break the screw loose if rusted in too. Also, I will melt candle wax around the screw threads while hot and that usually helps to remove the screw too. Great tips I learned from this forum.


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Old 05-24-2019, 04:28 PM
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I had a friend who busted off a hardened steel bolt in an aluminum block once. In this case it was still above the surface of the hole. We PB Blasted it and tapped on it some lightly with a hammer. Then I slipped a slightly oversized 304 stainless nut over what was left of the bolt. I TIG welded it on being sure to really cook it together. We tapped on it a little more with a hammer as it cooled and kept adding penetrating oil. Once it was relatively cool it came out with relative ease.

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Old 05-24-2019, 04:30 PM
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Rod I used was 316 stainless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by o7oBaseMetal View Post
I had a friend who busted off a hardened steel bolt in an aluminum block once. In this case it was still above the surface of the hole. We PB Blasted it and tapped on it some lightly with a hammer. Then I slipped a slightly oversized 304 stainless nut over what was left of the bolt. I TIG welded it on being sure to really cook it together. We tapped on it a little more with a hammer as it cooled and kept adding penetrating oil. Once it was relatively cool it came out with relative ease.

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Old 05-24-2019, 05:02 PM
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hat size bolt? Is it corroded? How deep?
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Old 05-24-2019, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
hat size bolt? Is it corroded? How deep?
Have to check the bolt but its a head bolt in an outboard v6 Evinrude engine it broke about a 1-1/2" in the hole so it's going to be tough to get to.
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