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Old 01-04-2015, 07:23 PM
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Default puller

Had a wheel bearing go out on our Dodge 1500 on the way back from Michigan after Christmas and had to do about 30 mph for the last 30 miles. I put on new but what a bitch to get off. Steel hub in aluminum housing. So now I made a puller and I will be ready if the other side goes. The collar that receives all the abuse is threaded with locktite plus a set screw.

1 pieces

2 put together

3 hammer, 3" solid slide and two 1 1/2" handles

4 sitting on hold hub showing spacers.(already have the old studs in stock)

5 drawing (what doya think of those flangejocky welds)
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:20 PM
Steeveedee Steeveedee is offline
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That's one helluva puller. I've had good luck with pulling races off a spindle by using the little cutoff wheels on my Dremel. But I think you had the opposite configuration with the bearing on the inside. I think it would still be doable, though. Just grind it enough until you can crack the race. I tried to replace the front wheel bearings and hub on the driver's side of my Toyota Corolla back in '06. My back was jacked and I couldn't pull the torque on the axle nut at that time- 160 Lb-Ft. I guess I lifted one too many a short block into the back of my truck unassisted (30 years ago, I could do that- a Chevy small block short block), and now I'm paying the price.
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Old 01-04-2015, 10:43 PM
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Nicely done...pretty cool. I don't know why but I think Dodge has had more "oddball" wheel bearing setups than all the other manufacturers put together. Seems like every one I ever worked on--and I've always tried to keep my contacts with Chrysler products to a minimum...--has needed some special puller or tool of some sort...
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Old 01-04-2015, 11:19 PM
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Damned nice welds. Nice tooling too.
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Old 01-05-2015, 01:11 AM
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Digr, is this the outer race you are removing? If it is run a bead round it, preferably a stainlessrod as that expands and contracts more than ferrous. When the weld cools the shrink will let it race come out easily. If it is not an outer race just file it for future reference.
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Old 01-05-2015, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clive View Post
Digr, is this the outer race you are removing? If it is run a bead round it, preferably a stainlessrod as that expands and contracts more than ferrous. When the weld cools the shrink will let it race come out easily. If it is not an outer race just file it for future reference.
The puller is for the hub, you can see it in pic # 4

Quote:
Originally Posted by LKeithR View Post
Nicely done...pretty cool. I don't know why but I think Dodge has had more "oddball" wheel bearing setups than all the other manufacturers put together. Seems like every one I ever worked on--and I've always tried to keep my contacts with Chrysler products to a minimum...--has needed some special puller or tool of some sort...
Thanks, it took two hours to get the hub out without it.

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Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
Damned nice welds. Nice tooling too.
Thanks LOL I was talking about the welds in the drawing

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Originally Posted by Steeveedee View Post
That's one helluva puller. I've had good luck with pulling races off a spindle by using the little cutoff wheels on my Dremel. But I think you had the opposite configuration with the bearing on the inside. I think it would still be doable, though. Just grind it enough until you can crack the race. I tried to replace the front wheel bearings and hub on the driver's side of my Toyota Corolla back in '06. My back was jacked and I couldn't pull the torque on the axle nut at that time- 160 Lb-Ft. I guess I lifted one too many a short block into the back of my truck unassisted (30 years ago, I could do that- a Chevy small block short block), and now I'm paying the price.
Thanks, wow throwing around short blocks
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clive View Post
Digr, is this the outer race you are removing? If it is run a bead round it, preferably a stainlessrod as that expands and contracts more than ferrous. When the weld cools the shrink will let it race come out easily. If it is not an outer race just file it for future reference.
I'll second that method. Works like a charm! I've used it several times
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Old 01-06-2015, 05:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
Had a wheel bearing go out on our Dodge 1500 on the way back from Michigan after Christmas and had to do about 30 mph for the last 30 miles. I put on new but what a bitch to get off. Steel hub in aluminum housing.
You do remember that aluminium has 2.5 times the expansion rate of steel, right?
Try warming it up and the steel will slide out easily.
How old is this thing? I owned dodges a long time and the Dana axles under them never had that in them.
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
You do remember that aluminium has 2.5 times the expansion rate of steel, right?
Try warming it up and the steel will slide out easily.
How old is this thing? I owned dodges a long time and the Dana axles under them never had that in them.
2002 and I did use heat, it was the only way to get it to move.
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digr View Post
2002 and I did use heat, it was the only way to get it to move.
I see that nastly corroded cartridge bearing fit, the slide hammer will
apply the force directly where needed.

But it still looks like work to me...how about swapping out
the slide hammer portion with a 12ga shotgun shell,
Like a hilti gun on roids....
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