Plans for a box blade

[Bender]

I would like to build a 5' box blade for my tractor. You gents know where I can find some plans?

[Walker]

When I made mine I went to the local tractor shop with a tape measure in my pocket, then modified the design to fit the materials I had scavanged for it. Make sure you design it with enough clearance so that it does not rub your tire when fully raised (mine does in the last 4"). Also, use a 4x4x.250 wall minumum for your cross bar, then just cut slots in it for your rippers (mine is slightly less stout and the rippers rip it when they hang up on rocks)

[OLD MAN]

The county usually has grader blade edges for free to bolt to a curve cut from a piece of large pipe.

[Harvuskong]

Originally Posted by Bender

I would like to build a 5' box blade for my tractor. You gents know where I can find some plans?

Sounds like Walker built a 3 Pt hitch box blade.

There are drawbar hitch models also.

Which one are you interested in?

[Bender]

3 pt Harv.

What did you use to build the rest? I'm trying to decide on .250 or 3/16th.

[Walker]

I used 1/4" plate for the rest. An important note here is that my tractor is a '48 Ford 8N with gravity down hydraulics, so the more weight the better. Most of the import tractor in the 20ish HP range are too light in the loafers to do much work without spinning the tires, so again the heavier the better.

[camdigger]

Plans??!? I don't think I can find the napkin I drew them on.
Here's some pictures of the 6' box blade I built.

I started out with a piece of 16" pipe out of a scrap pile. Cut in thirds, a pipe will give a roughly 30 degree digging angle - very aggressive, but that's what I need for the soils around here. Grader blades and cutter bits are largely over rated for casual acreage type use. A little hard surfacing rod along the cutter blade will outlast me. An improvement for mine would be to run a 3" or so angle iron down the back of the cutting edge to strengthen/stiffen it and to provide an edge for backblading. With the typical single acting 3 pt hitch hydraulics, more weight is better too. I didn't bother with a ripper bar, but a few shanks off a small feild cultivator would work, or some 3/4" x 3" or larger bar cut down and hardsurfaced on the leading edge would help the blade dig. The commercial box blades set the individual ripper shanks in fabbed up rectangular pockets with cross pins - not too bad to build up.

[Charlie C]

Dan, here is a site that might have some information for you.
These guys are building all sorts of implements for their tractors.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...questions.html

[soarkrebel]

Here you go...

[Bender]

Fantastic! Thank you so much rebel

Thats exactly what I was looking for