Shop Floor Talk  

Go Back   Shop Floor Talk > Welding and Metalworking Forums > Fabrication

SFT Search:   
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-17-2010, 11:40 PM
Bender's Avatar
Bender Bender is offline
One Lone Sub
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nampa, ID
Posts: 5,066
Default Plans for a box blade

I would like to build a 5' box blade for my tractor. You gents know where I can find some plans?
__________________
Boise Paint Contractor
Facebook
How fortunate we are!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-17-2010, 11:54 PM
Walker's Avatar
Walker Walker is offline
Standard of Excellence
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cave Creek AZ
Posts: 4,669
Default

When I made mine I went to the local tractor shop with a tape measure in my pocket, then modified the design to fit the materials I had scavanged for it. Make sure you design it with enough clearance so that it does not rub your tire when fully raised (mine does in the last 4"). Also, use a 4x4x.250 wall minumum for your cross bar, then just cut slots in it for your rippers (mine is slightly less stout and the rippers rip it when they hang up on rocks)
__________________
Walker
Chief slag chipper and floor sweeper, Ironwood Artistic
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-18-2010, 12:01 AM
OLD MAN's Avatar
OLD MAN OLD MAN is offline

2-3-1940 to 3-8-2011
Nobody was faster
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 12,577
Default

The county usually has grader blade edges for free to bolt to a curve cut from a piece of large pipe.
__________________
You do the best you can with what you've got.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-18-2010, 12:04 AM
Harvuskong's Avatar
Harvuskong Harvuskong is offline
The Enforcer
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Big Country Area, TX - Abilene TX area
Posts: 3,797
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bender View Post
I would like to build a 5' box blade for my tractor. You gents know where I can find some plans?
Sounds like Walker built a 3 Pt hitch box blade.

There are drawbar hitch models also.

Which one are you interested in?
__________________
Running away is the coward's way out of war.
Appeasement is the coward's way into one.


Biden & Harris is our enemies favorite candidates


In time the right project will find the scrap pile, no need for the scrap pile to go out looking for a project.

http://www.swiftvets.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24981

http://tosettherecordstraight.com/index.php
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-18-2010, 08:00 AM
Bender's Avatar
Bender Bender is offline
One Lone Sub
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nampa, ID
Posts: 5,066
Default

3 pt Harv.

What did you use to build the rest? I'm trying to decide on .250 or 3/16th.
__________________
Boise Paint Contractor
Facebook
How fortunate we are!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-18-2010, 09:48 AM
Walker's Avatar
Walker Walker is offline
Standard of Excellence
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Cave Creek AZ
Posts: 4,669
Default

I used 1/4" plate for the rest. An important note here is that my tractor is a '48 Ford 8N with gravity down hydraulics, so the more weight the better. Most of the import tractor in the 20ish HP range are too light in the loafers to do much work without spinning the tires, so again the heavier the better.
__________________
Walker
Chief slag chipper and floor sweeper, Ironwood Artistic
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-18-2010, 10:38 AM
camdigger's Avatar
camdigger camdigger is offline
Roving Reporter
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Central Oilberta
Posts: 3,945
Default

Plans??!? I don't think I can find the napkin I drew them on.
Here's some pictures of the 6' box blade I built.

I started out with a piece of 16" pipe out of a scrap pile. Cut in thirds, a pipe will give a roughly 30 degree digging angle - very aggressive, but that's what I need for the soils around here. Grader blades and cutter bits are largely over rated for casual acreage type use. A little hard surfacing rod along the cutter blade will outlast me. An improvement for mine would be to run a 3" or so angle iron down the back of the cutting edge to strengthen/stiffen it and to provide an edge for backblading. With the typical single acting 3 pt hitch hydraulics, more weight is better too. I didn't bother with a ripper bar, but a few shanks off a small feild cultivator would work, or some 3/4" x 3" or larger bar cut down and hardsurfaced on the leading edge would help the blade dig. The commercial box blades set the individual ripper shanks in fabbed up rectangular pockets with cross pins - not too bad to build up.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	3 pt stuff 013.jpg
Views:	7216
Size:	101.3 KB
ID:	58605   Click image for larger version

Name:	3 pt stuff 012.jpg
Views:	6771
Size:	37.1 KB
ID:	58606  
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-18-2010, 11:28 AM
Charlie C's Avatar
Charlie C Charlie C is offline
More STEAM!!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 6,036
Default

Dan, here is a site that might have some information for you.
These guys are building all sorts of implements for their tractors.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/b...questions.html
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-18-2010, 07:26 PM
soarkrebel soarkrebel is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11
Default

Here you go...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf boxblade.pdf (1.63 MB, 4208 views)
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-18-2010, 08:35 PM
Bender's Avatar
Bender Bender is offline
One Lone Sub
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Nampa, ID
Posts: 5,066
Default

Fantastic! Thank you so much rebel

Thats exactly what I was looking for
__________________
Boise Paint Contractor
Facebook
How fortunate we are!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Web Search:

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.