#1
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South Bend Mill
The tool attachment point is a South Bend propriatory collet arrangement. Collet sizes are 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4". There is no thru hole in the quill and there is no room anyway. The motor drives the quill thru a double set of pulleys and sits right over the quill. I have had a tool slip in the collet once so I backed off the DOC and continued. Does anybody out there have any experience with this mill? Any way to improve the tool holding capability of this mill?
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Bill in sunny Tucson I believe in gun control. Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at. Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity. |
#2
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You say quill I think you mean spindle. The quill is what moves the spindle up and down.
What is the tool holder, a 30 taper or is that custom too? I would suggest getting a new tool holder that takes an ER series of collets. There are different OD dimensions of ER collets, but that will get you into a standard set of collets and some a proprietary nightmare.
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Shade "Prepare to defend yourselves." -- Sergeant Major Basil L. Plumley, Ia Drang Valley |
#3
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I have not checked the taper, but it looks like 30° from my living room.
Are alternate tool holders available? From where?
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Bill in sunny Tucson I believe in gun control. Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at. Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity. |
#4
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Quote:
I have a collet setup for my mill but I generally prefer to use endmill holders. They lock solidly onto the endmill shank so there's no problem with slippage and, because of the way they stick out you get a little more clearance around the endmill. This website has good information on most of the machine tapers out there... http://www.tools-n-gizmos.com/specs/Tapers.html
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Keith Measure twice and cut once...or...wait, was that the other way around? |
#5
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To answer both questions, it is a #30 Steep Machine Taper per Machinery's Handbook #25, 3.500" per foot, 1.25" at the big end and 1.875" length.
There is no drawbolt to retain the collet body, only the two canted indentations on the side of the taper with a pair of socket head set screws doing the work. One edit, found this video. Link
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Bill in sunny Tucson I believe in gun control. Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at. Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity. Last edited by arizonian; 03-17-2022 at 10:38 PM. |
#6
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Hydraulic downfeed
Two years have passed and now I have another question.
When I built the windmill I did all the boring on the mill with the handwheel. With all the recent work on the lathe complete, I figured it's time to get the hydraulic downfeed working. There is oil in the pump, the pump does run and is rotating the correct direction, not so sure what kind of pressure it puts out. When turning the dial for downfeed, the black knob to the left turns 1 rotation and stops. Turning for upfeed, the knob rotates the opposite direction. The knob does not go in or out. The quill does not move with the hydraulics, only the handwheel and handle.
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Bill in sunny Tucson I believe in gun control. Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at. Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity. |
#7
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Never dealt with one of those. First thing I think I would do, is see if you can get a tee in there somewhere with a gauge to check for pressure. Also, is it a 3 phase pump motor? Any chance it’s running in reverse?
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#8
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Three phase as is the spindle motor. Checked rotation and it's going like it should according to the arrow on the pump.
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Bill in sunny Tucson I believe in gun control. Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at. Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity. |
#9
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Is your mill? Looks like there are two bolts that lock the 30 taper in the quill
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Drawing by Smartdraw Last edited by digr; 02-23-2024 at 10:54 PM. |
#10
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That's my mill, Southbend MIL 4218. Thanks, Digr.
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Bill in sunny Tucson I believe in gun control. Gun Control: The ability to consistently hit what you are aiming at. Weldor by choice, engineer by necessity. |
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