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View Poll Results: Which floor jack do you like? | |||
Daytona |
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3 | 100.00% |
Pittsburgh |
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0 | 0% |
Voters: 3. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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![]() Need another jack in the shop. HF is 5min away. So which do you like best? In-person they appear identical-ish. Pittsburgh is $92 after 20% before tax and Daytona is $118.40. I'm liking orange but the D also comes in green, blue and black. Pittsburgh comes in red only. I have another floor jack that is orange and a small one that is blue/silver, both HF... The D is 1/8" higher at 3-1/4". These are "low profile" jacks with a decent reach as needed for today's modern cars. Another factor to consider is I am much closer to Daytona than Pittsburgh! ![]() Daytona LINK Pittsburgh LINK
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2 Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma Hobart 250ci plasma Victor O/A (always ready, but bored) TA 95 lunchbox w/tig 45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs... Last edited by mccutter; 11-29-2020 at 08:40 PM. |
#2
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They look the same to me
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Drawing by Smartdraw |
#3
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As with all things HF you get what you pay for and you need to choose based on service requirements. 1/2 a dozen times a year Pittsburgh will do fine. Ten times a month go with the Daytona the build quality is very apparent. I bought the lower grade trans jack for working on Josh's Pathfinder and struggled a little because of going the cheaper route. Me personally I would opt for the Daytona. It's not that much more $ and will be better all the way around.
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"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill |
#4
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I have a Pitts aluminum one. Not sure which, probably 2 ton.
It’s a lot easier to lug around. I don’t use it very often. I’m sure it was on sale when I bought it. |
#5
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The Dayton Is different not built the same and is far better jack than the HF not that I have no complaints about either one still have an HF Pittsburgh I use and it's 10 years old and still works not my other Pittsburgh failed totally the newer ones from two years ago... and the Dayton Jacks are the more common jacks used here in tire shops more than snap-on or any others and get serious use on a daily basis
OH: and i guess i should add they are not low profile but are compared to the Pittsburgh jacks. |
#6
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Drawing by Smartdraw |
#7
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Chris The question isn't who is going to let me; it's who is going to stop me. |
#8
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The rear feet look a bit different. The bits that count are inside though. Seals and bores.
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#9
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Went back into HF and took a better look at both jacks and decided the Daytona was worth the extra money. Looking at the back wheel bracket it is more substantual and welds more professional-looking. The stickers were better quality and applied more evenly. Some other parts looked similar such as the wheels. Both are "rapid-pump" which is convenient.
NOTE!!! 20% discount does NOT apply to floor jacks and other equipment! ![]() Not much to unbox, put the handle halves together, into the hole then insert the screw with post to hold the handle in place. I opted to check the fluid while on the bench and it was at the correct level. As the fluid was clear, it was hard to see until I tilted the jack a little. Someone had said they don't come with fluid so I felt it prudent to check but it was fine... Also decided to lube the obvious zerk. Grease gun hadn't been used in a while... ![]() ![]() ![]() Floorjack fleet shown. The little silver/blue HF is a good value perpetually on sale for $60 and is low to get under newer cars. Not that heavy and makes a good "to go" jack. Doesn't lift as high as the other jacks hence the Daytona. It has a pinch weld "puck" on it so as not to crush. The silver Roush is a 3T rapid-pump unit bought from Sam's BJs, can't remember which. Think it was about $65 or so. Nice "hybrid" steel/aluminum unit of quality construction that worked great for 1 year and 1 month then started leaking out the main piston seal onto the floor. Warranty was 1 year and no exceptions were going to be made. ![]() The Roush still works but I drained it so I wouldn't have to deal with oil on the floor. Otherwise I was using a cookie pan to catch drips as you would a car in your driveway. I could fill it and it would work fine aside from a couple drips after an hour. I DID have a hydraulic guy a couple doors down try to fix the seal for me. Pulled the jack "assembly" out of the frame to make it easier for him to service. We bartered me welding a pipe vise stand for him but I got the poop end of the stick. I'd ask him about once a week if he got my jack done yet. Took a couple months ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The old orange HF I've had for about 15 years. Works "OK" but is not a rapid pump. Think it was on sale for $60 at the time. The spring that holds the handle up is weak hence the tie-down. The handle screw had to be re-engineered so it would not bind or come loose and is on top of the handle which is problematic with lower cars. Nylon pinch-weld puck shown. The spring around the handle is a mc fork spring (I think) put there to confuse people... ![]() Also have a little HF "trolley" jack at the house I removed the cup and put a wider flat plate on to use with a puck. Also put a couple broomstick handle clamps on the side to hold the handle in place for transport.
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TA Arcmaster 185 w/tig/stick kit MillerMatic 252 w/3rd gen 30A MM140 w/o AS, w/CO2 Hobart (Miller) 625 plasma Hobart 250ci plasma Victor O/A (always ready, but bored) TA 95 lunchbox w/tig 45ACP Black Talons for those stubborn jobs... Last edited by mccutter; 11-29-2020 at 10:01 PM. |
#10
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For 148 bucks that Daytona looks to be a pretty nice little jack. Well put together with some extra gussets and reinforcements in places that need it. As long as the hydraulics work OK it should serve you well...
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Keith Measure twice and cut once...or...wait, was that the other way around? |
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