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  #11  
Old 12-15-2020, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toprecycler View Post
That is very similar to my saw at work. I believe it is a Jet.

I had to just reseal the Hydraulics valve on it. And it was a pain in the A$$. The piston inside the cylinder has a check valve (I believe, but did not tear it down to verify) that allows the fluid to bypass when you lift the saw up. When you release the saw, it should stay right where you put it, if you have the valves shut. If it bounces, you have an air bubble in the line. The way to fill it is a small plug in the side of the valve.

You need to remove the valve from the panel so you can raise the side of the valve with the plug to the top. I used an old plastic bottle with a small spout and filled it with hydraulic fluid.

I forgot exactly how I did it, but I think I closed the variable speed valve, opened the on/off flow valve, then raised the saw( pulled the rod out). (I actually removed the cylinder and valve setup without removing the hoses, and set it up in my lathe, where I clamped the valve up high, and could use the carriage to push the rod in and out easily.)

Close the on/off valve, which should be a 1/4 turn valve. Now push the rod in. As you do, open the variable valve. Oil and air will flow back into the bottle. Close the variable valve. You will have created an vacuum on the other side, so when you open the on/off valve, oil will be sucked back into that line as you continue to press the rod back into the cylinder.

When the oil stops going in, close that valve. Then pull the rod back out. This will fill the cylinder with fresh oil via the bypass valve in the piston. Push the rod back into the cylinder, and open the variable flow valve again to let the air bubbles back out. It is important to always keep the fill plug hole filled with oil, but allow air to escape. But you want to make sure that only oil goes back in.

If you do not get all the air out, the saw will bounce up and down during cutting, and is very hard on blades then.

When I got done, I think I actually had a bit of pressure in the lines by creating a vacuum to suck the oil in.
Attachment 158823Attachment 158824Attachment 158825


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Ingenius use of a lathe. I have an identical valve assembly. That set screw will not come out. It must have been Lock-Tited
I think I got it bled on the saw. What a mess. The end result is that with the valve shut nothing moves and there is no bounce.

Thanks
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Last edited by Randyjaco; 12-15-2020 at 08:38 PM.
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2020, 08:07 PM
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Thanks Scott!

It appears that a Bolton and a Trajan are the same saw. That will help immensely.



Randy


You’re welcome Sir

Scott


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  #13  
Old 12-15-2020, 08:11 PM
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Here are some pictures of the starter box and the control panel. As you will see, I have a few wires that still need connecting
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Old 12-15-2020, 08:37 PM
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As for the switches, the Emergency Power off and the Start switch were broken off. I just picked up similar switches off Ebay. The start switch is a momentary type. The stop switch is one of those ubiquitous big red mushroom whack it off switches. The On light and the coolant switch are serviceable. The coolant switch is just a twist on or off type. The only other controls on the box are the hydraulic control valves.
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Old 12-15-2020, 10:37 PM
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Ok Randy.

Not a big deal on this on anything you ain’t sure about we can help out.

If you just want to run the controls you can do that without the 3 phase power. Then you can test your controls without running the motors. I did this with the lathe to get the controls sorted out without running my phase converter.

Looks like 220 single phase into transformer then it will take It down to control voltage.

At least you have an iec motor starter.

I don’t see a limit switch in the pictures to cut the saw off at the end of cut.

Scott


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  #16  
Old 12-16-2020, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post
Ingenius use of a lathe. I have an identical valve assembly. That set screw will not come out. It must have been Lock-Tited
I think I got it bled on the saw. What a mess. The end result is that with the valve shut nothing moves and there is no bounce.

Thanks


My set screw was super tight too. I didn’t see locktight on the threads, but I thought it was going to strip for sure removing it.


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  #17  
Old 12-16-2020, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
Ok Randy.

Not a big deal on this on anything you ain’t sure about we can help out.

If you just want to run the controls you can do that without the 3 phase power. Then you can test your controls without running the motors. I did this with the lathe to get the controls sorted out without running my phase converter.

Looks like 220 single phase into transformer then it will take It down to control voltage.

At least you have an iec motor starter.

I don’t see a limit switch in the pictures to cut the saw off at the end of cut.

Scott


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I have an RPC, so I have 3 phase available. I presume an IEC is a good thing
The limit switch is located at the top of the hydraulic cylinder.

At this point, I am waiting on the switches I ordered. Meantime I am going over my pictures of the old wiring and trying to duplicate the original. The problem is that those pictures show some disconnected wires

Thanks for the help. I am feeling a little more confidant.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2020, 01:03 PM
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Here is some information on IEC and NEMA electrical.

If you want you can test your controls without the 3 phase input running, That way you can see what is going to happen without the motors coming on and doing something unintended.

Scott
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  #19  
Old 12-17-2020, 06:15 PM
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OK, That sounds like a good idea. How do I hook it up? Is there a video or
other instructions?
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2020, 09:08 PM
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We can do a phone call if your up for it.

We can talk a little and see where you are with the project.

I’ll pm you

Scott


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