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  #41  
Old 12-28-2020, 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post

So, what does wire 2 at 13NO do?
See post #21
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  #42  
Old 12-28-2020, 09:55 AM
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Hey G, that may be clear to you, but that diagram explains nothing to me. It is numbered differently. I am guessing that #2 has something to do with the coolant motor? My setup has the CMR separate from the starter. Does #2 energize the CMR?

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  #43  
Old 12-28-2020, 04:20 PM
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So today I tackled the control box. I annotated how it is currently wired.
7 = yellow
2 = blue
3 = black
4 = red
1 = brown
2= white from the limit switch
6 = black from the limit switch
Except for the 2 wires going to the limit switch, everything else leads back to the terminal strips in the Starter box and they are all low voltage.

The stop switch is marked LAY7 (PBCY090) LAY37
It has the following connecting points: 1 and 2 on the Orange/red side and 3 an 4 on the green side
1 has #1 brown and a jumper to the light connected to it
2 has Black 6
3 & 4 have nothing connected to them

The Start switch is marked LA38
11 & 12 have no connections
24 has Black 3 and a red jumper to Coolant
23 has Blue 2 and White 2 (from the limit switch)
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  #44  
Old 12-28-2020, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post

Hey G, that may be clear to you, but that diagram explains nothing to me. It is numbered differently.


I am guessing that #2 has something to do with the coolant motor? My setup has the CMR separate from the starter. Does #2 energize the CMR?

The drawing in post #21 is meant for following the path of electricity to activate a contactors Coil.
same as you powered up the starter contactor (coil) with two wires from 24 volts now trace through the switches
you follow the wire from the 24 volt line through the switches to the contactors coil and back to the other 24 volt wire.

About switches and buttons, when looking at the drawing
you have to pay attention to their positions in their normal state then active state
that would be, are the contacts normally open (NO), or normally closed (NC)

You have a start button, the circuit should require that it be NO normally open. when you press it it closes.
The Stop and emergency stop buttons will be NC normally closed. when you press they open.

===
"Does #2 energize the CMR?"
we need the rest of your drawing to find out what they did.
Most of the times the answer would be No.
it depends if you want the pump to shut off when the saw motor shuts off at the end of a cut. the bad side of that would be you can not run the pump without the saw motor turning.
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  #45  
Old 12-28-2020, 11:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post
So today I tackled the control box. I annotated how it is currently wired.
That may help.
but we also need the other half.
the other day I updated the drawing in post #37 go back to it and
see if you can draw in the low-voltage wiring that are missing.

you have number 8 wire from the 24v, I assume it goes to that fuse in my drawing, draw it in and from there to where it goes.

draw in the rest of the wires to the terminal strip on the right.
there is a square on the CMR for its control wires draw them in.


without that I don't know how the switches get power and back to the starter.

Also we will need to know which contacts on the switches are NO, and NC.
they should be marked on the sides of switches

a picture of the front of the switches would be nice, I would like to see the type they are.
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Last edited by GWIZ; 12-28-2020 at 11:59 PM.
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  #46  
Old 12-30-2020, 04:04 PM
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Another day in the confusing world of electricity. After removing all the electrical components from the saw. I tried to set up everything on my workbench using a power supply set at 24v to simulate the transformer and not have to use 220 three-phase to power everything. So I got the relays to function using the saw’s control panel. The on/off works for the coolant pump. The saw motor starts when I push the On button. The power light comes on. When I push the Emergency Stop button the saw motor stops as it should, the power light turns off. So that part is good. When I say starts and stops, I am referring to the 220 wires turn on and off according to a continuity buzzer as I check each of those wires.
Maybe I am asking for the impossible, but it seems that If I hit the emergency shut off button, everything should shut off. The problem is the coolant pump does not shut off. It seems that the low voltage circuit for the coolant pump needs power all the time. The coolant pump switch works in reverse of what logic dictates. Most on/off switches have continuity between the poles in the ON position and no continuity in the Off position. Not this saw! In the On position, it breaks the circuit and in the Off position, it makes the circuit. If I remove the 24v from the circuit the relay says on. I am guessing that in order for both motors to stop when I hit the Emergency Stop, There would first have to be a pulse to the coolant motor circuit to shut off the relay before shutting down all power. I guess that I am going to have to live with what I have.
Ironically I checked my Jet horizontal band saw and it has the same setup. When I push the Emergency Stop, the saw motor stops but the coolant continues to run. So I guess that is the Standard, BUT IT JUST SEEMS WRONG!

Another joyful item is the coolant pump itself. It ran but it didn’t pump. So I pulled it out of the saw. There is an arrow at the top of the motor indicating the direction of rotation. It was turning according to the arrow and no amount of priming would make it pump. The pump is a centrifugal type and I thought that it might be blocked or the rotor damaged. Neither was the problem. When I looked at the rotor I noticed that it could not function if it turned in the indicated direction. I put it all back together and reversed the direction of the motor. It works like a champ.

Tomorrow is supposed to be stormy, so I will put everything back into the saw and wire it up, hopefully for the last time. I am really looking forward to being finished with this saw. But It is going to take a bit more work. I have to redo the control panel as it seems that the labeling for On and Off for the coolant pump is reversed. I am also pretty sure that I am going to be spending a lot of time dialing in the alignment of the blade because that was the reason the original owner got rid of the saw. He couldn’t get the blade to stay on. But at least aligning the blade is a mechanical task requiring minimal electrical knowledge.
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  #47  
Old 12-31-2020, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randyjaco View Post
Maybe I am asking for the impossible, but it seems that If I hit the emergency shut off button, everything should shut off.


The problem is the coolant pump does not shut off. It seems that the low voltage circuit for the coolant pump needs power all the time. The coolant pump switch works in reverse of what logic dictates. Most on/off switches have continuity between the poles in the ON position and no continuity in the Off position. Not this saw! In the On position, it breaks the circuit and in the Off position, it makes the circuit. If I remove the 24v from the circuit the relay says on.


Ironically I checked my Jet horizontal band saw and it has the same setup. When I push the Emergency Stop, the saw motor stops but the coolant continues to run. So I guess that is the Standard, BUT IT JUST SEEMS WRONG!
I suggest you write down the numbers on the CMR and make a search for what it it
I never seen one but I know there is/was latching relays.
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