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  #11  
Old 08-18-2014, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by TxDoc View Post
and have to remember to return it to zero, after using.

Thanks again. Mechanical search......possibly a CDI ?
Doc it depends on the type. A beam torque wrench does not require you to back it off after using. They also dont take half a day to crank up to a high level of torque.

CDI is ok but I prefer Precision. They look just like the Snap On wrenches but are blue instead of red. The resemblance is uncanny,It's almost like they build them for Snap On..............



http://www.toolfetch.com/precision-i...FahaMgodXBkAaw
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  #12  
Old 08-19-2014, 12:20 AM
TxDoc TxDoc is offline
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Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post
Doc it depends on the type. A beam torque wrench does not require you to back it off after using. They also dont take half a day to crank up to a high level of torque.

CDI is ok but I prefer Precision. They look just like the Snap On wrenches but are blue instead of red. The resemblance is uncanny,It's almost like they build them for Snap On..............



http://www.toolfetch.com/precision-i...FahaMgodXBkAaw
I will look at the Precision brand, also.
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  #13  
Old 08-19-2014, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SmokinDodge View Post
Doc it depends on the type. A beam torque wrench does not require you to back it off after using. They also dont take half a day to crank up to a high level of torque.

CDI is ok but I prefer Precision. They look just like the Snap On wrenches but are blue instead of red. The resemblance is uncanny,It's almost like they build them for Snap On..............



http://www.toolfetch.com/precision-i...FahaMgodXBkAaw
FYI... I first purchased a beam wrench because of the low price. Then, after I made a few bucks, I bought a clicker, 'cause it was "neat." I prefer to use the clicker because, once set, it will work in all positions without having to watch the pointer on the beam.

When I checked the torque rating of the two wrenches against each other, I discovered that the clicker was 3# lower than the beam over a wide range of readings, so I adjust the clicker to 3# over whenever I use it.

The last time I rebuilt an engine, I encountered a rather strange outcome when using the clicker. I had torqued a couple rows of bolts on rocker arms, and when I checked the torque on the bolts I discovered it was low on all of the bolts, so I torqued 'em again. Then, I started over and the torques, again, were not up to spec. I grabbed the beam wrench and torqued a bolt... took it up to full spec and watched as the beam's pointer went to the required poundage, then bled off. I said WTF to myself before it dawned on me that I had used thread sealer on a blind hole, so the initial torque reading was caused when the bolt compressed air at the end of the hole. When the pressure bled off, the torque dropped. I removed and cleaned the bolts and holes, and used oil instead of sealer on the bolts. Then, all torqued to the correct spec and held. So, the moral, here, is that sometimes old school and cheap will prevail over high tech and newer.
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