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  #41  
Old 04-04-2016, 11:29 AM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironman View Post
Indeed. The best thing about a new tool is the excuse to buy supporting tools.
So True.. Of course this huge belt sander will only be used for dressing anvils?????? Right!!!!!


Ron, the video of welding a face onto the anvil is a good one.. Real wrought iron when heated to welding temperature is like a pair of magnets.. As soon as they touch they are joined and even with a traditional tool steel it just about jumps on to wrought iron as well if the temperatures are correct..

Problem is all the labor involved..

The Nimba anvils look excellent but for my money I would still be looking at the Refflinghaus anvils. Dual horn, with side shelf 400lbs +..


For the money this anvil I just bought was a great market purchase,, BUT..


Anyhow this kind of seqways into anvils and quality control..

I've I had mentioned before the English and german anvils were thought of as being higher quality as were other models of American made anvils like Trentons..

The Level of finish of the Hay Buddens on the undersides was terrible.. They Basically just forged out the underside and left it as forged vs taking the time to smooth everything down like the Peter Wright, Soderfor's, Henry Wrights or Trentons..

Here's a few pictures of the undersides of some HB's.. You can see they just left hammer marks...

Also since HB anvils were basically custom but with lenghts and widths in print if the anvil was a little to short they would thin the tail to get the required length..
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

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  #42  
Old 04-04-2016, 11:36 AM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Here are some shots of a 155 Trenton and a 209lbs trenton and a 330lbs Henry Wright..


So it seems there were a few companies back then which also cared about the non working sections of the anvil.. and I think lots of earlier blacksmith's looked at that finish work..

I can only imagine HB workers putting them out as fast as possible and once they moved to the 2 piece anvil it was probably only a few hours work forging the anvils to basic shape..

I will make a big anvil at some point.. question is which method..
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__________________
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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  #43  
Old 04-21-2016, 05:37 PM
NOBLNG NOBLNG is offline
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I saw an odd looking anvil on the net and figured this thread would be a good spot for it?
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  #44  
Old 04-22-2016, 04:34 AM
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allessence allessence is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOBLNG View Post
I saw an odd looking anvil on the net and figured this thread would be a good spot for it?
Dual horn.. This would be my Favorite type.. I believe the anvil you posted was a Refflinghaus.

Looks like a smaller version of this:

My only gripe is the price and then the side shelf is 1" thick at the tip..

A side shelf should be tapered out to the tip and is a wonderful addition for doing work on forked things..
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__________________
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Jennifer

If I defend myself I am attacked.

My meaningless thoughts are showing me a meaningless world.

My attack thoughts are attacking my invulnerability.

I'd like to think of something smart, but I don't want to hurt myself.

My google+ page

DoALL 36"
Another Johnson model J Project
Lathe? Maybe..... 1958 SBL 13"
Yeti Esseti Aka running welder on 3phase.
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