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  #11  
Old 08-21-2011, 03:22 PM
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The Johnson Gas Appliance Co. has been in business for over 100 years. I see references to the same company name from the early 1900's. The Johnson Forge blower may just be a part on there. Johnson Gas is in Iowa. Maybe a coincidence or some relatives in somewhat related businesses.
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2011, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by tnmike View Post
Its pretty much the same design as the new Johnson gas forges so I would say they are closely related if not the same company. Youve got enough info on the Johnson website to get yours going. There are about five different manuals for the two burner forges depending on what safety equipment is installed on them. This is the only UL approved gas forge. The local community college got into it with the local fire marshall and had to buy five of them at a cost of 20 grand. The drawback as I see it is the amount of fuel they use, the up front cost and the amount of heat they put into the room and on the operator. You can literally watch the gas meter whirl around like a clock when one is running.

I would take it outside, hook a gas bottle to it and light it. Ive seen forced air forges where the gas was run into an elbow with a copper tube and lit after the fan was turned on. Crude but it worked.
The forge wiull be set up outside as I don't have a building to put it in anyway. When not in use it will be covered.
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  #13  
Old 08-21-2011, 10:03 PM
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Now I understand why you are the Wyoming Auction Addict. Great deal for 15$.

Mick
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2011, 12:11 PM
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Now I understand why you are the Wyoming Auction Addict. Great deal for 15$.

Mick
I rearely ever went to an auction until retiring and moving here in 2006. Now it is my main hobby and it has made me some nice money too reselling some of the stuff. Kind of pays for most of my "hobby".
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Old 09-04-2011, 03:10 PM
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Got the forge all checked out yesterday. It is a 4 burner forge, but I have shut off two burners for the initial lighting test.

The switch was a little iffy, but cleaned it up with contact cleaner and it works perfect now. The motor for the forced air works great. The gas solenoid valve operates as it should, i.e., closed when power shut off to the motor and on when the blower is on. I have 3 or 4 LP regulators. I can't tell what each of them have for output pressure.

I picked one and when trying to light the forge it acts like it is not getting enough gas. Tried adjusting the air input at the blower from almost closed to halfway open with no difference. I am using the O/A torch for the starting.

Anyone know what the output pressure of the regulator to the forge should be? How can I tell what output pressure of the regulators I have are? Is there some sort of code involved?

Pics are of the regultor I used.

Edit: The link from TNMike says it should have 6 psi pressure to the forge. Maybe my regulator has too little output pressure????
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Last edited by milomilo; 09-04-2011 at 03:30 PM.
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  #16  
Old 09-04-2011, 10:07 PM
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tnmike:

Do you have any advice on my LP regulator for my forge???
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  #17  
Old 09-04-2011, 10:42 PM
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Chris,

I see 6 ounces in the manual linked above. 11 inches of water column in the other link with the pictures.

regulator information.

Scott
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  #18  
Old 09-04-2011, 11:08 PM
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Chris,

I see 6 ounces in the manual linked above. 11 inches of water column in the other link with the pictures.

regulator information.

Scott
In your link it says most LP tanks are around 6 ounces of pressure. Does that mean I do not need a regulator and just control the flow of gas using the manual valve at the forge?
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  #19  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milomilo View Post
In your link it says most LP tanks are around 6 ounces of pressure. Does that mean I do not need a regulator and just control the flow of gas using the manual valve at the forge?
That part I will have to study up on. I would have to guess that would be regulated pressure. I seem to recall that pressure in the small grill lp tanks can reach 150 psi in the sun. Here is a copy and paste out of the link.

Regulator Purpose

Propane tank pressure can range from under 10 psig to over 200 psig. Residential applications will generally require 11 inches water column (amount of pressure required to push a column of water up 11 inches in a manometer, or about 6.3 ounces per square inch) and the regulator compensates for these pressure differences in the tank to supply a steady flow of required pressure to the household appliances. Not all applications are similar to that of residential use and will therefore utilize regulators for higher and lower pressures as required by the appliance(s). In summary, the purpose of a propane regulator is to "bottleneck" the propane down to a safe and usable pressure. An important point to note is that under normal operation, a propane regulator will make a "humming" noise. This is normal and should not be construed as a problem or regulator malfunction

I don't think I would try this without a regulator.

Scott
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  #20  
Old 09-05-2011, 12:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotts View Post
I don't think I would try this without a regulator.

Scott

meither.

I ran across a natural gas cook stove a few years ago that some moron had "repaired" by removing the regulator. This was operating on the relatively low pressure supplied by the meter in the alley and the burners would blow your eyebrows off if you weren't careful.
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